lymon

what kind of oil did you use ? under no circumstances use DOT 5 or 5.1 and preferably no DOT 4 either, as it will make the rubber piston cups swell In this case the air will leak along the cups and you can bleed forever, but never get it to work right Only solution then is to replace/rebuild both the MC and SC.

the workshop manual download walhalla: car manuals: http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/ bike manuals: http://carfiche.com/manuals020/bikes/ mircofiches: http://carfiche.com/fiche009/ manuals/fiches that are currently "TnA" are Temporarily not Available. Check back after the top of the hour and a different set of manuals will be available.

H3 bulb (I think) > how do I access the light panel from the back. (it's held by 3 nuts)

check for ECU errorcodes first. Maybe this helps to track down the cause. You wrote you have cleaned some connectors..did that include the CAS connector ? This because the CAS (connector) is often overlooked and can cause all sorts of weird problems as well. (and after all the CAS is made by mitsubishi, so can't be good anyway ;) )

actually the diagnosis description should have been: the ECU detected this fault (once) 17 starts ago.... the datascan description is suggesting the error occured 17 times anyway...fault was probably caused by a wiring/connector issue. Best is to start cleaning the MAF connector and erase the faultcode.

the main engine ECU needs speedsignal too for quite a few things (eg. VTC solenoids, Rev limiter, AFR routines, Fuelcut routines). I would do as John suggests and keep the circuit from the old speedo or weird things might start to happen ;)

>> Does this affect the warm up period? another important activation factor, which I forgot to mention is vehicle speed. If vehicle speed is 0 (the car is not moving) they are deactivated as well. So that's probably why they start to rattle if you leave the engine idling (while standing still) and they are activated again as soon as the car starts to move. their activation does not rely on engine temperature...(it does, but only in extreme cases, eg lower then -45 Celcius or higher then +105 Celcius)

that's correct. their activation depends mostly on engine load. As soon as the engine has to produce some power the solenoids will be activated. they will be deactivated again as soon as you let go of the throttle and/or above a preset RPM (depends on the chip), but usually somewhere around 5000 rpm

yes, if the engine has been standing outside and not "airtight" sealed (like sparkplugs removed) you may now have rust on the cylinderwalls and crankshaft Have seen this happen a few times

>> Has anyone else had experienced the "fuel sprinkler" effect so I can confirm it's a dodgy O-ring? yes, it's either a ripped or mis-aligned ring Did you use new rings or used the old ones ? you are VERY lucky it didn't catch fire.

and remove the ABS actuator (in the trunk) you will have to make/reconnect new brake lines that went into the actuator. see the BR-section of the service manual for diagrams of how the current system works

>> to add the clutch booster connection is below the master cylinder not above Not on LHD cars ;)

> Which on can be remove on the picture, the left or right? left one. > Ok I will remove both but do know where to find a write up on cluth vaccum tank removal? for the clutch vacuum assist bypass there isn't any write-up afaik, but basically you need to make one single hose (with the stock one-way-valve in it) from the plenum straight to the clutch booster connection above the clutch master cylinder.. > Is it better without ABS? if your name is Michael Schumacher, then yes :D I suppose it's all about personal preference, but most track cars have it removed as getting rid of the complete ABS system saves a lot of weight

pic1: fpcu (fuel pressure control unit) and rear shock actuator controller (this last one can be removed if you no longer have stock shocks) pic2: vacuumtanks for the prvr -system and clutch (can be removed both) pic3: abs ecu (can be removed if you don't want abs :D)

>> Can you buy new sprockets and if so will I need a second mortgage? Yes, you can and yes, you will need a 2nd mortgage or sell a kidney. But I doubt it's going to help much. Are both VVT's rattling ? it may be a slow/stuck actuator solenoid. As you already seem to have replaced all main parts it's likely something deeper within the engine, like maybe a problem with the cams or an oil pressure problem to the heads >> There was a design change from 94 onwards so did you get the correct ones for your cams? the new design is actually somewhat worse and have known "rattling" problems. Als the new design pullies won't fit old type cams

>>I'm in the process (a very slow process, lots of other things going on) of writing a linux server daemon that will talk to the ECU through a datascan cable. you may want to take a look at this: http://sourceforge.net/projects/insult and http://www.cit.uws.edu.au/~luke/software/CONSULT/

>> Datascan (£75) - is a better end user tool I seriously doubt it....one of the main things datascan lacks is a proper manual/guide. I've lost count of the posts like: "datascan userguide ?", "datascan problems", "Datascan Diagnostics Help", "can somebody please look at my datascan logfiles and tell me if my car is ok"

Paul, I've looked up the numbers in the Nissan Part database (FAST). See my previous post (edited) for the exact details.

>> I've jwt500, 555cc and run around 15psi (on stock FMIC) of boost as i was having a boost leak. the overfueling on the LH-bank might very well be caused by this boostleak I wouldn't be surprised if there's a (big) leak in the RH intercooler/piping. -Eric

you can use the narrowband (simulation) output of the wideband. Keep in mind though that widebands don't have a very long lifespan, so it will be an expensive solution if you want to do it this way.

>> A mate of mine says that ABS blunts the breaking performance of a sports car and good manual breaking is better. Most sports cars are light...a Zed isn't Disabling ABS on track days is fine, if you are a good driver. As this is in a controlled environment, you will be aware that you'll have to brake hard. In the real world/road, an emergency stop can not be forseen (in most cases) and as an aid to help stop the car you will need ABS in a heavy car like the Zed. Not only will a working ABS make the stopping distance considerably less, it will also enable you to steer the car away from the object you are about to hit while standing on the brakes....something that is not possible if you are in a skid. The ABS on my Zed was broken for some time and during that time I had 3 near accidents, because the bloody car just wouldn't stop/steer in case of an emergency stop Especially in the wet it got into a skid easily and because of it's weight it WON'T stop if the ABS doesn't work, wether you pump the pedal or not. Having upgraded brakes will only make things worse, as the front wheels will lock up even sooner. I have fixed the ABS recently and have a R34 brakekit on the car and stock ABS works like a charm with this kit.... If you want to disable ABS or see the difference in braking capability between a working and non working ABS, then first do a skid course and do a few of the tests with and without ABS. Only then determine if you STILL want to disable the ABS ;)

you mean something like this ? custom job. Used on the escort racing NA Zed : http://www.escort-jp.com/gallery/detail.php?num=4

Atf3

It's not your speedsensor. the speedsensor signal goes directly to the speedo dial and the electronics in the dial convert the signal into a pulse signal which is then send to all ECU's The main engine ECU needs the speed signal otherwise a 4400 rpm revlimiter and some other limiters are activated, as the ECU thinks the car is standing still. In a lot of cases the cause of non or intermittent working speedo's is caused by tiny cracks in the solder joints on the speedo board. Resoldering the joints solves the problem (in most cases)

as Daveman says, the neutral switch of the gearbox is not connected to the ECU. This is a VERY common fault on AT -> MT converted cars http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=63335