lymon

some more: http://history.nissan.co.jp/FAIRLADY/9810MC/HTMLS/index2.html

should not have anything to do with the bypassed matrix. could be a stuck airmix door. do the ac lines in the enginebay that go into the bulkhead get cold if you switch the AC on ?

>> can you ID where they it's either 26 or 27 (hard to see on the picture)..there's a connector with 3 wires (o2-sensor) and a connector with 2 wires (VTC solenoid) and 24 or 25 (same story)

a japanese company making automotive products ranging from HID kits to wipers , alloys and oil filters http://www.piaa.co.jp/

Don't panic just yet. it might be something as simple as worn VTC springs, which can make the engine sound like a diesel as well. have someone with a conzult turn the VTC solenoids on/off while the engine is idling..especially if the solenoids are turned on the engine will sound like a diesel with worn VTC springs.

>> but what else can we do? a vented bonnet helps very well, but is not to everyone's taste. another option, which is done in Japan quite a lot, is to slightly tilt the bonnet on the back (by placing rings under the hinges) and by removing the rubber firewall seal and sound isolation material/blanket under the bonnet This will allow some airflow under the bonnet and a gap at the back to let the hot air escape (while moving). only negative effect of this is that the hot air from under the bonnet will be "sucked" up by the blower in the car...can be annoying (hot) in the summer, if you don't have a (working) aircon. more "radical" options are: -remove complete aircon system (esp. compressor/pipes/condensor) -remove catalysts (these hold a lot of heat, which radiates back into the engine room) -remove/relocate less important/unused items in the engine bay (HICAS actuator + pipes, Battery,Cruise control hardware, solenoids + piping/hoses, aircon items) electronics: -additional electronics to have the auxilary fan blow in fresh air when the engine is off and enginebay or coolant temperature above a certain point. -ideally an electric waterpump, with afterrun option (as found on Audi S4's)

95-110 is fine for most "non" performance passenger cars. These cars generally run hotter on purpose...to improve fuel economy and keep emmision levels low. performance cars (like the Zed) should be kept cooler (optimal range is between 85-90) and it's not such a good idea to run above 95, unless it's been done on purpose. Octane requirements of an engine (especially the case for turbo charged cars) increase with coolant temperature and high temps can cause pinging/detonation. ..additional problem the Zed has, it can't get rid of the heat very easily and it tends to keep it in the engine bay for a long time (even with the engine off). In some cases the temperature even increases with sometimes up to + 20C when the engine is turned off. The bubbling sound you sometimes hear when you turn off the engine, is the coolant that starts to boil.. In extreme cases it can even cause the overflow bottle to spit out lots of coolant...a clear sign that the engine has seriously overheated.

*should* be between 50-80C. without a decent oilcooler temps can get much higher then that (100+) and is one of the main causes for Zed autoboxes to blow up as (regular) ATF will loose it's protection/lubrication properties starting at 120+ (it will start to turn brownish or in worst case black and it will start to get the burning smell)

if it's pouring out, it's more likely to be a leaking oil line to the oilcooler up front. Or the oilcooler itself has been damaged (by a rock or something) If it's a turbo seal, the driversside lower thick rubber hose (in the enginebay) should be covered with a thick layer of oil.

try this method, it takes some time but works well: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=main&msg_id=920063

9 out of 10 times, once the engine (seriously) overheats, it blows coolant out through the overflow tank.

could be worn handbrake shoes or one or both anti rattle springs in the handbrake have come loose.

>> The sub fan IS primary there for the air con condenser, it maintains air flow across the condenser when required ( i.e. in traffic / stationary ) sorry...don't want to get into an endless discussion, but I still have to disagree. the Zed has a engine driven, viscous fan that (when working correctly) is ALWAYS sucking air through both condensor and radiator....to maintain air flow across/through the condenser (and radiator) at all times. The aux. fan is never even mentioned in the AC section of the service manual. The main viscous fan (among other things) is mentioned in case of pressure problems. >> If its knackered it won't kick in. if the temp sensor is broken or not connected, the aux. fan will turn on permanently and the car will be in safetyboost -Eric

>> If you want to see this in action stand outside any modern car with air con running and listen to the condense fan cut in and out, on the 300 zx if you have a set of pressure gauges attached you will see the pressure rise to around 16 to 18 bar and the fan then cut in, if it does not cut in the pressure rises very quickly to 20 bar + it's controlled by 3 variables: coolant temp, ac switch on/off and vehicle speed it has nothing to do with the pressure the AC system works at: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=190 don't forget most (series 1/2) Zeds use an older type ac refrigerant (R12), which operates at a lower pressure and so doesn't get hot as quickly as the newer/safer refrigerants, as used in most modern cars, which are operating at (much) higher pressures Im not sure how it works for zeds that have R134a AC system from factory, but I can imagine the aux. fan is then also used for cooling of the condensor. The same should be the case if you "upgrade" your AC system to a newer refrigerant

There's also a seal at the end of the gearbox (where the propshaft enters the gearbox) On manuals this is also a common leak, but not so much on autos if it leaks there on an auto, it's usually caused by an overfilled gearbox. (ATF)

common misconception: The sub fan is NOT controlled/used by or for the aircon ! ...it's used as an extra/emergency cooler for the rad. It's controlled by the engine ECU and depends on coolant temp. However, when the aircon is turned on it will turn on a little earlier (at a coolant temp of 95C, instead of 105C) The reason the fuse blows, could be due to several reasons: short in the elctr. motor or something is in the fan/axle (plastic/dirt/etc)

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=589609&postcount=20

sudden air in the system and no apparent oil leaks can be caused by several things: - wrong oil (eg. DOT 5.x oil will attack the rubbers in master/slave cylinder causing it to leak) - faulty/leaking bleed nipples - worn rubbers in the master/slave cylinder. You can get rebuild kits for both from Nissan.

CO level too high worn shocks (esp. rear) play on front suspension links handbrake (lever too high)

> is the electric fan spose to come on all the time or only when needed? with the AC on, the aux. fan will only turn on if the coolant temp is above 95C with AC off it will turn on at 105C

best is to make sure these things are in near perfect condition: -brakes (pads, fluid, discs) -suspension & tires (shocks, tires in good condition and correct pressure) -cooling (especially if you want to drive there in the summer...do not use the aircon !) -engine oillevel empty the car with as much as possible...saves weight and is safer (no flying objects in case you have to brake/corner hard) if you are an inexperienced driver or if it's your first time on the ring..forget about it when it's raining ! VERY scary in a ZED :D

yeah...should have warned you. :( had the same problem the first time I replaced an oilpan and had to do it all over again.. NEVER refit the oilpan with the dipstick still in place, as in most cases the stick gets stuck between the girdle and one of the oil baffle plates. do NOT pull it out with force...it WILL break at the end of the stick and the leftover bit can cause lots of damage internally

>> So who's got the bits I need to put it back together. Front bumper, Stub Axle, upper suspention arm, lower sus arm, water res, new wing "in red would be kewl", Nearside headlamp, I'll bin the the others for clear one's I recon. if you can't find it anywhere local, I have all/most of those parts but I'm in Holland. >>Also my front wheel is F***ed so anyone that can find one is on a super Xmas bonus. Any details on the wheel ? looks a bit like an Azev Type-A ? might be able to help you with that one as well PM me for more details.

>> your disturbing a 12 year old very brittle wiring loom which will almost certainly break up as you bend it. small tip to prevent this as much as possible: spray lots of WD40 on the loom + connectors a few days before starting the removal. Heating things up with a heat gun/hair dryer helps quite a bit also.

There should be a small wire/connector running from the pump to the main wiring harness. This connector switches the pump on/off, so make sure it's connected.