lymon

>>just been out in the car and the relay has not made any difference. I still dont hear a fan after the engine is stopped and the temp rises to 90c once the engine is stopped! That's correct..Zeds don't have this feature. The aux. fan will only turn on at 105C (or 95C when aircon is on) and turn off as soon as you turn off the ignition. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=190

>> Did you have to relocate your oil cooler as it looks like thats it on the rhs infront of the wheel? Yes, in that picture I had it relocated in front of the rhs wheel, but I wasn't very happy with the cooling so I've recently moved it somewhere else. It's now in a almost horizontal position just under the (vented) nosepanel and this works better. This way it doesn't interfere much with the main airflow to the radiator and still the oilcooler gets enough airflow. >> Wheres your intake? if you look closely, you can see a glimpse of the 2 apexi filters behind each foglight.

> which fan is supposed to continue to run if its not the big belt driven one on the front of the block? none...Zeds don't have this feature. And the electric auxilary fan only turns on when certain conditions are met and usually when it's already too late (imo): http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=190 and...also read this: http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=71946

I've seen this once and only makes sence when you measure boost as close to the turbo as possible (eg. compressor housing)

It's a HKS FMIC and fits quite well. Just some minor modifications needed, mostly to the bumper

Autobox ECU has detected a failure in the AT revolution/speed sensor circuit.

afaik, greg dupree only makes for swb's.. the universal mufflers for custom stuff can be bought from sebring directly: http://www.sebring.at/product.php?option=1&selPrdID=1&ln=2&selectBrtID=38&selectCatID=1185&selectDtlID=1790 http://www.sebring.at/product.php?option=1&selPrdID=1&ln=2&selectBrtID=38&selectCatID=1184&selectDtlID=0 http://www.sebring.at/product.php?option=1&selPrdID=1&ln=2&selectBrtID=38&selectCatID=1186&selectDtlID=1790

>>> do vented nose panels really help keep the temp down. most don't and are only for "cosmetic" purposes these type nosepanels do help keep temps down: (can be bought from zcentre)

cooling problems are also often caused by "dirty" condensors (radiator type thing in front of the main radiator) ... clogged fins of the condensor or other debris/paper in front of the condensor will have a MAJOR effect on airflow and efficiency of the engine coolant radiator. Often it helps to clean the condensor by removing the main radiator and using a air compressor to blow out the dirt from the inside out...or, if your aircon is not working anymore and you have no plans on repairing/refilling the aircon in the near future, get rid of the condensor all together. (unfortunately you have to remove the front bumper to be able to do this) Installing vented bonnets help cooling very well, but as a cheap/simple alternative you can remove the rubber bonnet seals at the back of the bonnet and top of the firewall area, so you actually have some airflow under the bonnet. Putting a few rings under the bonnet hinges,so the bonnet is slightly lifted at the back improves "under bonnet" airflow even more. as a cheap/simple alternative to an aftermarket temp gauge, you can wire a 12V LED to pin 6 of the ECU (connect other pin of the led to earth). the LED will turn on as soon as the acc. fan kicks in and the engine is overheating.

water (not stopped by the airfilter) can ussually not be fixed

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ma&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=23&design=default&total=33 that is if you can get all old oil out (also from the TC)

if in doubt remove the right top camcover and check the belt for small cracks or missing teeth. if you can still read the markings on the belt quite clear it's fairly new (in general). best is to manually turn the crank so you can inspect the complete belt. you can also start the engine, but it will be hard to see any damage as the belt will trun round quite fast. if you can't read any of the markings it's best to replace it. BUT..the tensioner is also VERY important and there's no easy way to check if it has been replaced. if the tensioner fails the belt will slip, no matter how new it is.

> 2.1 litres make that 8.2 litres !!

sounds like a faulty alternator or battery measure the voltage across the battery terminals with running engine. should be approx. 14Volt

:D yes, but remember too much advanced timing = BOOM BANG RATTLE SMOKE = bye bye engine

seems clear to me...if the alternator is nort charging the battery, replace alternator..or have it tested at least. CAS and PTU have nothing to do with the charging of the battery

that bio-fuel is called E85 and is 15% regular fuel mixed with 85% ethanol. It has an octane rating of approx 115RON so you can run more advanced timing = more power. trouble is, ethanol eats through fuellines and injectors and you need more of it (just like alcohol). So you need larger injectors, special fuellines and pump to get the most out of it.

Trick I always use: see if adding 1 coffeecup ATF to the engine oil helps to free up the lifter. (go for a 15-30min drive after you have added the ATF)

If you remove the heatshield it will sound quite different. I removed the heatshield on mine (but for other reasons) and it doesn't seem to cause any (overheating) problems...sofar.

probably air trapped in the hydraulic system. follow this procedure to get the air out: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=cl&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=8&design=default&total=18

yes

> Anyone know a way of bypassing a boost controller to see how it performs stock. bypass the BC. solenoid : connect the 2 hoses going into the solenoid to each other and you should be in safetyboost > Also can a leak in any of the pipes cause overboost like this?? one of the hoses to the wg-actuators could have popped off or have a split.

have you checked the resistance across the terminals of the suspected injector ? Best is to do this at the ECU, so you'll test main wiring harness at the same time. other method is to use a long screwdriver as a stetoscope and listen if the injector "ticks" at all or sounds different from the other (working) injectors. Are you sure #6 gets a spark ? I've had a similar issue some time ago and was also suspecting an injector as well, but found out after many many hours the problem was caused by one of the main PTU connectors. Had to completely cut it off and solder a "new" connector to the harness.

> What sort of boost/power will this kit push out. 450-ish > I build a lot of my own custom turbo kits, so none of the above would be a problem. for you maybe, but for 99% of the people on the forum that are looking for new turbos and that do not have access to the right tools and materials probably not quite that easy (and cheap) :)