lymon

the starter you mean ? I doubt that's the one leaking ;) most common oil leaks are : rear and front main crank seals, turbo oil feeds, oilfilter bracket and rocker covers (exhaust side).

http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/ops/ops.htm

the density of the air is also very misleading and important factor that is often overlooked: more dense air = more power. The air produced by stockers at 1 bar is hotter (and has less density) then the airtemp at 1 bar of bigger turbos. Another big factor in how well a certain turbo performs is the VE and compression ratio of the engine. So, saying my turbo has this much boost at this rpm doens't mean much, unless you're comparing the exact same turbos on the same car/engine -Eric

NTN/NSK partnumbers are usually stamped/printed on the bearings themselves. did you have a good look at the old ones yourself ?

I checked the FAST parts catalog and it looks like the bearings are not available seperately from Nissan. you might want to try a company that has NTN or NSK bearings.

As Mark said the hose to the FPR should NEVER be blocked as it's the case with your car. Get a new plenum connector (the one that now has a screw into it) and connect the FPR hose to it.

Rebuild them yourself: cheapest + "reliable" way is to order new or (genuine) Garrett remanufactured cores (or CHRA's). Garrett partnr: 431876-0041 With a good set of snap-ring pliers, ringspanner size 13 and rubber hammer you'll be able to remove the compressor and turbine housing from the old turbos. Put the housings back on the new CHRA, make sure all the in/outlets are lined up as they were on the old turbo and you're done. Note: check the turbine/exhaust housing for small cracks (especially around the wastegate flapper), if cracked: replace turbine housing when reinstalling the turbos always use brandnew oil lines and when all done and starting the engine for the first time remove the main EFI fuse and turn the car over for at least 1:30 minute (to prime the lines + turbos with oil) -Eric

there was a small change in compressors around the end of '91 , early '92 The hose fitments on the compressor changed to slightly different locations. I'm not sure if the old type hose fitments will fit the newer model compressor or vice versa.

your ign. timing could have changed if you removed the CAS during the belt change and didn't put it back exactly the way it was on before

http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/photo/e/e1.htm

have you also checked/swapped/bypassed the fuelpump controller ? It sounds like that's the one causing your problems http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/fpcu/fpcu.htm -Eric

the cracked bit you mean ? it's a rubber protection shield slipped over the main AC hose. if it's just the shield that's cracked you don't need to worry (yet)

before adjusting idle in any way, make sure that : A. throttle position sensor is registering approx. 0.4V at idle and 4.0+V at wot. B. the closed throttle switch is "on" at idle and "off" as soon as you touch the throttle. (if it isn't, disconnect the "seperate" connector on the TPS while the engine is running, wait a few seconds and reconnect it.) C. preferably ECU selflearn levels have been erased (with a conzult or by disconnecting the battery for a few hours) While adjusting idle, it's best to turn on the lights and set the heater on max blow (ECON mode) or just set the idle to approx. 850rpm. (which is about 100rpm higher then the recommended idle rpm) -Eric

I'd rather have this new Nissan Coupe concept:

sounds like the gearbox/tc is not disengaging (properly) at low revs ... could be anything from incorrect TPS voltage to mechanical problem in the gearbox/tc. see if selfdiagnosis of the AT-ECU gives a clue on where to look

>> I think Lymon was experimenting there and wanted to see the outcome. and the outcome of the experiment is that you CAN turbocharge a stock NA engine (in good condition) without too much trouble :D I've done 2 sofar and both engines are still running very good The TT'ed NA engine I have in one of my Zeds is still very strong and powerful after 3+ years and 25000mls only problem I have now is those weak stock TT turbos are starting to give up ;) with stock TT injectors and fuelpump you'll be able to run approx. 11 psi max on a NA engine. anything above that and the injectors will not be able to provide enough fuel (meaning the NA engine at 11psi delivers the same or slightly more power as a TT engine on 14 psi) for the cost aspect, it's cheaper to just buy a TT parts car and use the engine and other parts from the TT to do the conversion. -Eric

This shouldn't matter, since the PN switch is still connected. Problems occurs when converting gearboxes (AT to MT), since you'll have to rewire the PN switch to the ECU

pin 44 on the ECU needs to be grounded or the base timing will be out +10 BTDC at idle. (which is confusing if you need to set base timing..unless you are aware of this issue and know the timing will be 25BTDC at idle when this pin is not grounded)

could be caused by a faulty temp. sensor

Most Zeds need these Nismo's: as Mark said, the injectors displayed on Ebay won't fit, unless you have a '95 or later model

When was the timingbelt replaced ? sounds like it could have slipped a few teeth on one of the LH camshaft pulleys. Best is to do a compression or leakdown test to verify.

> Now I think the front bumper is an OE 99spec with Stillen extension? It's a signature bumper: http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/300zx-bodykitsignature.htm

first things to check: -boostleak -coils and/or coil connectors -plugs (make sure plug gap is set to approx. 0.9-0.8mm) -diagnose o2 sensor(s) a PTU on it's way out could also be causing this...only way to check this is to swap it with a known good one. -Eric

yes

see if disconnecting the bad O2 sensor makes a difference. -Eric