lymon

Do a search on tt.net...I remember something about Appolo having bad flow characteristics.

alternator is probably dead/dying

TT flywheel/clutch will fit NA box, but you'll need to grind some of the edge of the gearbox and use spacers under the starter to give the flywheel some extra room. further explanation: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1595122

That only leaves one solution get one from EBAY : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-dash-from-16v-Astra-GTE_W0QQitemZ4580205525QQcategoryZ10404QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Citroen-Picasso-Digital-Instrument-Dash-Panel_W0QQitemZ4581591960QQcategoryZ10376QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/vauxhall-mk2-astra-digital-dash_W0QQitemZ4581476554QQcategoryZ10404QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem strip out all the electronics and stuff it into the Zed dashboard and be unique :D

>> I think Im correct in saying that electronic boost controllers are not usually connected to your ECU. Apexi controllers are connected to the ECU Field controllers are connected to the ECU some HKS controllers are connected to the ECU Greddy controllers not (but some older models are) Blitz controllers not -Eric

here's aomeone that installed a STACK meter which resulted in a semi digital dash. http://www.miki-soft.com/miki/index3_stack.html -Eric

Good controller, bit complicated to set up but has some nice features. TIP: if you buy/have one, do NOT use the selflearn function on a Zed. -Eric

you might be able to fit the 350Z HKS supercharger kit to a 300 or have a look at vortech chargers. http://www.capa.com.au/vortech.htm >> can you have "on-the-fly" adjustment like a boost controller? Not really, boost is controlled by the size of the supercharger pulley superchargers normally don't have a wastgate, so there's no real way to limit the boost

>> Does anyone know the maximum power an N/A diff can take? >> Also are there any figures for improvement in 0-60 times etc? not sure, but I know it's one of the better modifications I have done. Car shifts through gears almost like a motorbike. :D >> Is it a straight swap or are other bits required? you'll need the complete NA subframe with rear axles and NA propshaft. -Eric

make sure they use a torqueplate when boring/honing the cylinders !! -Eric

In the "early" days people increased boost by shortening the actuator arm, but since on some cars (like the Zed) it's impossible to get to the actuator arms, they started using (adjustable) breather valves, which also increase boost (be it a little unstable) Using jets is an even cheaper/easier solution to breathervalves and it basically does the same thing and as long as you know the correct size jets it doesn't need any calibration. If you ever have to remove the engine/turbos and hoses to the actuators, you will find out that Nissan already used jets to be able to create different boost levels. (regular boost and safety boost) -Eric

looks like the night watchman has been sleeping/dreaming during his working hours.. :D

>> Wont a Skyline box go in easier? You often hear about Skylines being pushed to near on 1000BHP some even more? the R32/R33 box have the same internals as the Zed box. The weak spots are the high gear synchros...not the box itself. There are upgraded synchros available from Nissan, but you'll need to rebuild the box. Usually the high powered skylines use a dogbox ..who needs synchros anyway. :D Iain, what gearbox do you have now ? 32010-40P00 (the original 5spd transmission in the Zed..the one with the weak synchros) 32010-45P00 (the one with updated/upgraded synchros/bearings/etc.) 32010-45P61 (the latest and greatest ? model that has even more updates and improvements.) I've also read somewhere that the synchros from the Nissan Pathfinder fit the Z32 gearbox and are much stronger. -Eric

here is some information

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=cl&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=8&design=default&total=18

yes the sidefeed injectors from the earlier models will fit (apart from the connectors), they are 440cc as far as I know, so not much is gained from stock 370 cc TT injectors. they should look like this: But don't forget a subaru is a four banger with 4 injectors and you'll need 6 ! -Eric

actually, Zeds use TB22 turbos which are slightly smaller then a T25 (especially the turbine side) also the turbine side bolt pattern is different (4 bolts instead of 5 bolts in a T25/T28) -Eric

if you look under the car while pressing the clutch, do you see the pin moving from the slave cylinder ? also, have you tried this ? http://specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

>> Where can you buy an original Strokek kit and what is the cost??? http://www.strosek.de/homee.htm pricing depends on several things. you can purchase just some parts and have it installed somewhere local or for the best result (IMO) you can bring your car to strosek in Germany and they will do all the work for you. -Eric

both have pros and cons and both are available in good and bad designs if you decide to use a frontmount, I'd strongly recommend to relocate the oilcooler(s) to the (then free) space under the headlights. Also try to improve airflow to the radiator as much as possible (eg. by using a special nosepanel and airguides), since the FM will block a lot of air. An advantage of using a frontmount is that you can get rid of quite a few 90 degrees bends in the (intake) plumbing, eg. by using a dual intake system, with the intakes in the area under the headlights. This will improve airflow to and from the turbos and decrease lag. The problem with a lot of the larger sidemounts that have a high "charge face" , is that the ic's will be covered by the frontbumper for 80% or even more. A problem with sidemounts that have a thicker charge face, like the Greddy sidemounts, is they can't dissipate heat very well, because of the lack of flow/air behind the intercooler. Here's a good and informative website about intercoolers on the Zed: http://www.tdm-works.com/ PS, my opinion: don't bother going aftermarket intercoolers when you are still running stock turbos...unless you live in an area with a hot climate, the intercoolers are damaged or need to be replaced for some other reason. -Eric

I know, but it was just meant as a general warning for those that have a RHD car and want to order a complete interior

Make sure when ordering interiors from Euro or US companies like katzkin, you order an interior for a RHD car or you might have a small problem fitting it ;)

>> (i) will the turbos be too powerful for an unmodified engine albeit rebuilt. It's strongly recommended you use stronger internals and the least thing you need are bigger injectors. But you can bolt on any turbo you want and set the maximum boost to a level where the injectors can still provide enough fuel. Although in this case you will never use the full potential of a particular turbo. >> (ii) will I have probs fitting them? turbos from (most) skyline won't bolt on to a 300 without a LOT of modifications. The only exception are the turbos from a Skyline R34 Vspec2 N1. These can be made to fit a 300 without too much trouble, for all other skyline turbos I wouldn't bother. >> (iii) is there an alternative My advise: Don't bother trying to find stock turbos (either new or used) The stock turbos use the Garrett TB-series technology that's over 20 years old and turbos have improved very much since then.. a good choice would be a Garrett turbos from the latest GTR or GTRS series. If you want near stock turbo characteristics then a good choise would be the Garrett GT25R (GTR series). Note: These turbos are not plug and play on a 300 and need some modifications to make them fit. If you want bigger tubs and depending on what sort of power figure and characteristics you want, you could choose for: HKS2530's (GTR-series) JWT530's (GTR-series) the above turbos have been pre-modified and are plug and play on a 300 for the most part. However, if you want to do the modifications to the turbos yourself, you can opt for: Garrett GT28RS (GTRS-series) Garrett GT28R (GTR-series) Garrett GT25R (GTR-series) the PE1420's (IHI turbos) are another good choise...comparable to Garrett GTR-series. IHI turbos are well known in the Subaru and Porsche world and have a very good reputation as well. The PE1420's have been modified by Power Enterprise (japanese company) to fit a 300 and other Nissans Then there are also the Greddy TD05-16G or TD05-18G turbos. Although the technology used in these turbos is old technology, they have proven to work very well and last for a long time. Note: always buy these turbos as a complete kit for the 300...don't buy just the turbos >> (iv) does any one have ant tubs for sale that they may want to sell for a cheap price? I think I saw a (ebay) link to cheap HKS2530 turbos on here a few days ago..

don't forget to fill in the exact size of your rear tires: http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/files/Gearsp_NS.xls

best is to unplug the main EFI fuse, which not only disables the PTU, but the injectors are disabled at the same time (so no fuel is injected during the test) The main EFI fuse is the most left fuse (green one) in the main fuse box in the engine compartiment