lymon

It's one of the switches of the Automatic Speed Control Device (aka Cruise Control) -Eric

> Have checked adjustment and all ok. Have you actually tried adjusting it to see if it there was some improvement ?

for automatics it works a little bit different, since the AT ECU will communicate to the engine ECU when it's changing gears (among some other parameters) if you don't have the neutral switch or it is malfunctioning the ECU will never switch to the high gear fuelmaps, but it won't do any damage. if you do have it, but you're using an AT ecu/rom it won't use the signal.(which is actually a good thing, because the gear formula is quite different for autos and could cause problems in a manual car) In stock configuration it will switch to the high gear maps as soon as you hit 4th gear or 3rd gear in an automatic. I have noticed myself that if it switches too early it could cause detonation. This is the case if you are using a NA diff on a TT, since the formula the ECU uses to calculate what gear it's in will be off. In this case it's best to either diable the switch by cutting the wire or disable it in the ROM of the ECU.

>> Don't think my breath is that strong????? it isn't ? :D well, in that case maybe try using an air compressor. ;)

The ECU uses the speed signal and rpm to calculate what gear you're in so the ECU knows when to switch to the high gear fuelmaps. For this the ECU also needs to "know" exactly when you're actually in or out of gear and it does that by sensing the neutral gear switch. -Eric

I'm not sure, but a way of testing the controller is by applying approx. 1 bar of pressure to the controller's pressure sensor and the solenoid should start to make a clicking/buzzing sound.

The profecB uses the same solenoid as the Apexi AVCR. it can be tested fairly simple by just putting 12Volts on it (black wire: -, red wire: +) Are you sure you have the solenoid connected correctly ? (COM to wastegate actuators and NO to both nipples on intercoolerpipes) The solenoid is normally open, and as soon as 12V is applied the solenoid should close (at that point you should not be able to blow any air through the in/out ports) -Eric

is it a stock clutch ? Tried adjusting the pedal ? -Eric

The ideal point is always a bit of a compromise: ideally you want it to open at any positive pressure, but it should also be able to hold the maximum boost you want to run and it's near impossible to have both with a spring loaded blow off valve Anyway, what I normally do with the cheaper model blowoffs is cut the springs 1 winding at the time until it starts to make a fluttering sound at stock boost or approx. 2/3 of the maximum boost you want to run (for a car with stock turbos this is at approx 0.6-0.7 bar) and then cut 1 more winding. Also make a few longer testruns at stock and max. boost I've noticed the cheaper valves sometimes may act/sound different once warmed up a little So check if the car doesn't start to make the fluttering noise again or starts getting idling or max. boost problems. (fluttering sound: spring is loaded too hard, rough idle or max. boost problems: spring is too soft.) -Eric

I installed the same blowoffs on a car this weekend. had to cut approx. 2 windings of the internal spring until they started to make a sound from 0.7 bar and higher. You can use regular grease on the piston for lubrication..oil/wd40 is too thin and will eventually leak out. PS: for those interested, the sound of these BOV's is similar to, but not as loud as the Apexi BOV's

sounds like you've got a big (vacuum)leak somewhere...since starting the car or unplugging the MAF will cause the ECU to add extra fuel. Done anything special/different to the setup as compared to before the rebuilt ? injectors ? (555's ?) dual intake system ? Was the ECU/chip changed ? any errorcodes ? -Eric

the overheating problem could be caused by an airlock or non working thermostat. Slowly fill the radiator while the engine is running. Then wait for a few minutes for the engine to get up to operating temp (check if you can see the coolant flowing through the radiator)...meanwhile keep topping up the radiator until it doesn't take any more coolant. Then go for a short drive, let the engine cool off and recheck coolant level.

datascan software isn't compatible with the (genuine) conzult hardware, so I'm afraid it will never work.

for guides/help on how to tune your own ECU: http://www.ztechz.net and http://forum.ztechz.net and especially this thread might be interesting for you: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=540 I wrote u small program that can convert basically any Z32 ROM into one that should work on 555cc (or bigger) injectors. You might want to start to play around with a stock ROM and change the speed/rpmlimit a little and then convert it to 555cc. I suggest you get rid of the JWT 555 eprom, since it has a dangerous lean section at full throttle/high boost. -Eric

there is a FC for the Z32, but it's very hard to get. easier to get a DTA or Wolf3D system...did hear some unpleasant stories about the link systems but what's wrong with a proper tuned stock ECU ?

>and all settings seem fine. what are your settings then ? (especially dutycycle,gain and limit)

before you alter the adj. screw: Did you do the front hoses as well ? if so, you might have (accidently) turned the TPS a little, so it reads an incorrect voltage. another thing that might help is to reset the ECU first..

the actual map is not available (afaik), stock compressor is a T22, 51mm-40mm wheel, 62 trim. closest I could find is the compressor map of a GT22, 52mm-40mm wheel, 60 trim

trust me, it's the correct number. I have 2 of those persplex panels here and it clearly says 26590-49P00 on the both boxes ;)

the one without integrated brakelight: 26590-49P00

http://www.atomicspeedware.com/medianewscarlson.htm and their attempt in 2003:

224mph in a fairly standard Zed: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=572 -Eric

sounds like a problem with the hydraulic system.. maybe an (oil) leak...also check the cap of the clutch hydr.fluid reservoir.

http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/CRXDQWHFA/Rattling-Window.pdf

:ttiwwop: