lymon

I have one (old model), but it's useless without a wideband o2 sensor and too dangerous to just "play" around with. (it can make your motor go bang quite easily :D) The new AFC indeed has an option to use input of a knock sensor, but I'm not sure they mean the stock sensor with that...knowing Apexi they'll probably mean some seperate knock sensor you'll have to purchase from them. ;) -Eric

I measured it a few times and the hottest I have ever seen was 85 Celcius (after a good drive on the nurburgerring :D ). But...I did some things to improve airflow under the bonnet, so on a stock car it might even get hotter. Also there are some parts of the plenum that get quite a bit hotter then the rest. -Eric

could be a bad injector. measure the resistance across the terminals of every injector by using a multimeter. They all should be within the 10-14ohm range -Eric

I thought it was about the rear calipers and turning the steering doesn't seem to do much at the rear ;)

strong ringspanner and then hammer it until it breaks loose. the problem with extensions is that you don't have much room in that area to get a good grip and actually move the spanner. -Eric

10.5:1

check your post on the ztechz.net forum. I've posted a bin that can be used in a '92 Euro AT -Eric

http://www.neuralmotion.com/forum/tech/Alarm.htm

Did you install the shifter correctly ? (...or to put it differently: was the shifter handle the other way around when you were done ?) it has a slight bend in it and when installed the wrong way it can cause the problems you describe. -Eric

Mark, I haven't tried using sandwich adapters yet. Did you use a NA or TT filter bracket ? I'm working on a system that uses a seperate electric pump, (with thermostat ) to flow oil taken from the oilpan through the cooler, so the engine oilpump is freed up from doing this. -Eric

I used to have the small type oilcooler on my car and on hot days engine oil temps would rise to around 110-125 degrees Celcius...especially in stop-go traffic temps would rise enormously. Problem with the small cooler was also that once you reached temps of above 100 Celcius it was very hard to get the temp back to normal operating temps again. (85-90 degrees) This is probably caused by the oilpressure operated check valve system that is used on our engines. At 100+ temps the oil gets very thin and oil pressure is not enough to open the check valve so you don't have any flow through the cooler. A good test is to go for a good blast on the motorway and once you're done, feel the oilcooler....you shouldn't be able to touch it, it should be almost as hot as the radiator. For the small oilcoolers it is very common that it won't even feel warm, while oiltemp is actually at 100 Celcius. I now have a proper cooler on the same car/engine and the highest I have seen is 95 degrees Celcius and the cooler now gets really hot as well, so it's actually working. I also did the same test with 4 other cars (all had the small type engine oil coolers) and all had the same result. So I can strongly recommend a big(ger) engine oilcooler...or upgrade to the Euro/UK spec cooler -Eric

the problem with the temp. gauge is probably a loose connector on the sensor. (front of the engine, on the upper coolant pipe: check the small black connector) and for the boostgauge: I suppose same story..check connectors or small vacuumhose running to the gauge (if it's a mechanical boost gauge) -Eric

I hope it's not the case, but the fact that you have play in the steering wheel could mean the bottom of the car got hit as well. Only way to find out is to take a look under the car. The oilpan has a weird shape, but have a good look at the lowest area where the drainplug is..if you see a clear dent or severe scrape marks in that area then do not start the car anymore ! (or run the risk of severe engine damage.) While under the car, you can also see/check the connector of the oilpressure sender..

Did the oilpan get damaged as well ? It only needs a small dent to completely ruin your oilpressure (and your engine within a few hundred miles) if you're lucky, the connector came loose from the oilsender which causes the pressure gauge to malfunction the vacuum tank in the wing is used for the clutch..you can disconnect it without too many problems. (plug the hose that runs to it) -Eric

I always use this quick and dirty method and it has never failed me (yet): -put the socket with a large (and strong) bar on the pulley bolt. -wrap the bar in a towel and put it into position so it rests against the stabiliser bar on the left side (when standing in front of the car)...you can use a tiewrap to keep the bar into position. -now START the engine for 2 seconds (with coils, PTU and fuelpump disconnected offcouse ;) ) Note: make sure the bar can't work itself loose and you have a fully charged and strong battery works on autos AND manuals. -Eric

or:

sounds like safetyboost. Did you check for errorcodes ?...I bet it's showing a code 34 (faulty knock sensor) -Eric

yeah, I heard a similar story as well...I also heard the HKS 6sp boxes are rated at "only" 800 bhp or so. They also have a sequential box for the Z nowadays. I wonder if the 350Z box can be modified to fit the Z32

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/power_train/manual/manual.html

650-700 bhp There are reports of Japanese Z's running >850 bhp (like the pentroof Z) using stock manual boxes, but I'm not so sure about reliability. -Eric

That's exactly what I did after an hour of swearing and cursing at that bolt :D ...Damn Nissan engineers.

get the bolt out and put a screwdriver in and wedge as long as the holes line up enough...then hammer the original bolt back in. getting the nut at the back of the alternator back into place is a bit of a nightmare...but you'll have to put the nut back, otherwise the bolt will work it's way out again within a month and you can start all over. -Eric

1st gear with a NA diff is even more pointless ;) I have set my boostcontroller not to boost over 0.5 bar in 1st gear, which helps. Starting in second gear is another option..

I have put a NA diff. on one of my cars and love it...it's one of the better upgrades (IMO) But you have to make a few sacrifices: -you'll have to swap the complete NA subframe and propshaft, so no more HICAS -the top speed becomes quite a bit less The NA diff and especially propshaft is not as strong as the TT versions, so this can be a bit of a problem on really powerful cars. -Eric

NA automatic gearbox can NOT be swapped with a TT box.. NA autobox is MUCH weaker then the TT box and completely different (internally) NA manual gearbox is a different story and can be swapped with a few modifications. only difference is the bellhousing. -Eric