lymon

it has been done before, but you'll loose the aircon and it needs a lot of custom piping. Better is to make it a twinturbo, which is what I did as an experiment with my NA last year It's not easy, but it works well and you'll end up with a VERY fast car. I'm currently running 0.8bar of boost on a stock NA engine (with 10.5:1 compression) for over a year, using stock auto TT turbos, intercoolers, injectors, oilpan, a customized ECU and some other small bits of a wrecked TT that I bought. email me if you want more details. -Eric

there was a special Euro spec Z until '95 Basically the same as the UK spec, but LHD -Eric

NA's are ECU limited at 145MPH (232km/h)

don't know where you saw that ? according to EFEC page 59 timing should be over 25BTDC @ 2000RPM and at idle (~850RPM) timing should be 15BTDC -Eric

John, are you using a romulator/zemulator ? I once had a weird problem and it turned out it was caused by a corrupted ROM image in the romulator's memory . I had to reflash the complete rom image (not just the maps) and everything was fine again. -Eric

ehrm..vijay, on what page does it say that ? it should say: at 2000 rpm the timing should be more then 25BTDC.. -Eric

No, timing should be near 35 BTDC, but depends a bit on what tune you have. since there's no load, the TP is low (5-8), so you should look at the first table of the map. and, yes..most TP formulas I have seen are only reasonably accurate for midrange RPM's. -Eric

I checked several logfiles of different cars and they all seem to be around 1.40-1.60 volt @ 2000RPM -Eric

..not much more expensive as stock mounts, but a lot more durable: http://300zx.com/Products/Powerplant%20Performance/Urethane%20Motor%20Mounts/noltec.asp -Eric

http://www.z32.de

a lot of 300 parts are used in Subaru WRX's .. frontbrakes/discs, injectors, similar ECU and lots of other electronics, parts of the gearbox. -Eric

Sounds like the TPS (throttle position sensor) needs to be adjusted or has a corroded connector. (see service manual EFEC, pg. 181) -Eric

Yes, JUN pistons are notorious for making the car sound almost like a diesel on cold startups -Eric On a side note: anything over 88 will require metal headgasket.

Most boostgauges also show vacuum.. during idle the boost gauge should be indicating at least -9 psi (on a psi scale). anyway..the MAP sensor (aka boost sensor) can be found on the passenger side near the bulkhead. (see section EL, page 109 in the service manual.) the hose runs from the balancetube to a t-piece and then along the bulkhead to the MAP sensor. -Eric

I presume your gauge is in psi ? It sounds like you have a vacuum problem somewhere. However this could be as simple as a small crack or puncture in the small hose that runs to the MAP sensor that is used for the gauge Any hissing sounds when idling ? -Eric

colorcode is LP2 http://www.nissan.co.jp/FAIRLADY/9810MC/HTMLS/color.html do a search on google for "lp2 color nissan" to see other models in this color. -Eric PS: Andy, please check your email about a few parts you still owe me.

:confused: sorry, I didn't get your email ? did you use eric@300zx-twinturbo.com ?

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=850343

Check if the fins of the aircon radiator aren't blocked with dust, mud, leaves, smashed birds and feathers, paper or other stuff. One of the Z's design flaws is that the AC radiator is usually blocking a lot of flow to the radiator and can cause severe overheating problems. -Eric

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=cl&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=7&design=default&total=18

Yes they've got different partnumbers, but I never found out the difference and you can use NA coils in a TT (and vice versa) without problems. -Eric

Did you already try adjusting the pedal itself ? -Eric

Did the car turnover when you tried to restart the car for the first time the problem occurred ? if not, it's probably your alternator or battery recharge the battery (or use another full battery) and start the car and measure the voltage between + and - with the engine running, voltage should be between 13-14 volt and if it's lower your alternator has a problem. -Eric

Haven't you seen the new MAP-ECU yet ? ;) http://www.performancemotorresearch.co.nz/index.html

read again..I have absolutely nothing against Trust/Greddy products, but this thread is about boostcontrollers. They have very good and high quality products, but my personal experience is just that their electronic gadgets are just more expensive compared to other similar products.