lymon

How does the car drive ? experience any lack of power or does the car seem to struggle at higher speeds ? How does it reach the limiter ? does the rpm creep up slowly and then just doesn't want to go any further or does the limiter kick in very suddenly. First impression of your story, I would say one or both catalysts are blocked. -Eric

No, the conzult can be used on NA's also. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult Next month a new version will be released: the Conzult-SX. This version works for most 4 cylinder Nissans that have a DDL port, like the S14(a), GTI-r, N14, etc. -Eric

There isn't.. The water doesn't go anywhere, until they're full and then you have a problem, because the water is sucked into the intake. So if you have a NA, I think it's best to check them once a year or so..

you mean these ? : those are on the NA only and are actually there to catch water that gets into the intake !? On a TT these pipes run to the recircs

ofcourse you are free to put the solenoid where ever you want, but you want to keep the hoses to the solenoid as short as possible and of similar length to both left and right wastegate. Installing the solenoid near the battery is not exactly ideal in this case. ideal would be somewhere under the nosepanel. -Eric

Sorry about that...I forgot to include a list of fixes/additions in the email that I send out. Ok...here's the list: - Full monitoring should now work again with the engine turned off (version 1.2 had issues with this) - Redesigned main screen - now logging possible of every ECU (used to be only the engine ECU) - Included Logfile analyzer and replay utilities - Combined both fuel and timing signal submenus into one menu - it'll show additional ECU info (not just partnr.) - some of the communication routines have been optimized. - accurate RPM drop is now shown in the power balance menu and the IACV/AAC-valve is set to 0% dutycycle, so the ECU can no longer compensate RPM during the test and give inaccurate readings. - Base idle menu has been redesigned. - Documentation has been thoroughly updated -Eric

here's a bloke in the US that made a dry sump system for the Zed: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=807010

Good to hear you passed the MOT ! -Eric

>>Will there have been any oil getting to the turbo? If oil pressure is reduced would that starve the turbo of oil all together? How long did it take after you find out you lost 1 liter of oil ? Not sure how much oil these engines hold, but I think 1 liter is probably around 20-25% of it's total capacity... and that's a lot. I can't imagine it didn't have an influence on the overal oilpressure (also to the turbos) ...maybe you didn't notice it or the stock toyota oilpressure gauges are as crap as ours ;) >>Is the presence of the buzzing an indication that the bearings are knackered? Would it not take a little bit more to *!?* up the turbos? Can be anything really, but usually knackered bearings have more like a rattling sound. I presume you topped off the oil level again ? Is it still buzzing ? Can you locate where the buzzing sound is coming from ? >>Would the fact that the leak is in the OUTLET suggest that oil IS actually passing through the turbos? If there is a funny noise, is that bad bad bad? Yes, but oil pressure is more important to the engine/turbos. Losing lots of oil is never good. Does the car still have trouble building boost ? -Eric

Normally those hoses will rip apart once you try to remove them, unless they have been recently replaced. Sometimes they've also become so hard and impossible to get off, that you need to cut them in half.

You can get rid of those vacuum tanks though.. it's a big source for boostleaks and you won't feel much difference (if any) without the tanks. -Eric

theoratically it's best to mount the BOV's as close to the throttlebodies as possible...so that's why a lot of companies sell them as hardpipe combos. It's ok to mount BOV's at the location where the recircs are, but you don't have much room there, especially on UK/EURO cars (bigger oilcooler is in the way) -Eric

Mark, I suggest you install the boosters, unless you want to have a very muscled left leg ;) I had to disconnect the vacuum hose to the booster for a short time once (I have a JWT clutch) and the clutch gets pretty heavy. It becomes really annoying once you get into stop/go traffic. -Eric

Every Z runs a little rich at idle. a few basic things that might help lean the mixture: -clean throttlebodies + reset ecu. -clean/replace airfilter(s) -check timing, for a NA you can set it to 17BTDC without too much worries -check TPS voltage (idle : ~0.4 volt) and clean the connector -check Temp sensor connector

yes.

it was 2 component epoxy suitable for aluminum and other metals. Once you remove the plenum/pipes it's very obvious where the holes are that need to be covered by the coins.

You need to fill up the radiator, not the overflow tank. use this procedure: start engine, put heater on max and fill the radiator until it doesn't take any more coolant. (Note: NEVER use plain water, always use coolant !! ) To test if the elec. fan is working at all, you can disconnect the yellow connector on top of the top coolant pipe while the engine is running (watch your hands)....as soon as you disconnect it, the elec. fan should turn on. other signs of overheating: put heater on max and if it starts to blow cold air while the temp gauge is around/above the half way mark, then it's definately overheating. -Eric

Quick check to see if the engine is overheating: If the temp gauge is in the H area, the aircon is off and you can hear the electrical fan behind the frontbumper, then the temp is above 105C/220 F and you're in trouble. If the aircon is on and the elec. fan is on, then the temp is above 90C/195F

I glued two coins to the bottom of the plenum to fill up the EGR holes there. (use strong glue though ! ;) )

JWT sport500's are really nice. Although these are not much bigger then stock, they feel like stock (lag wise) but with a lot more torque...which is what counts. read this informative post about turbo upgrades for the Zed: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=839668 -Eric

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=761417

It's easiest (and probably quicker) to remove the gearbox, unless you have VERY small hands and special tools. The 2 pipes that connect to both main cats are from the AIV system. You can remove it and block the pipes -Eric

paintcode is: LP2 http://history.nissan.co.jp/FAIRLADY/9810MC/HTMLS/color.html

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/autoTimerInstructions.pdf

Pete, sorry to have pissed you off :) I think I still have the english manual somewhere, with wiring scheme. I'll try to dig it up for you. -Eric