lymon

Yes, I had one....it's a nice gadget, but not that useful. What do you want to know ? -Eric

connects to a hose that runs to the carbon canister -Eric

I'm using this: http://xtronics.com/memory/romutator.htm with the info here: http://ecu.ztechz.net/ and a few runs on a rolling road to optimize the the maps for your car/setup. -Eric

I would take a good look at the ignition starter relay again.. This is what provides the main power to the PTU and the coils. Have you swapped it with a known good one? -Eric

NA: 270cc TT: 370cc this is for all years. from '94 and later different type of injectors,fuelrail and lower intake was used, but size remained 370cc -Eric

The VG30DE(TT ) is a very strong engine when treated right. There have been a few (recent) reports of TT's running over 720RWHP on stock internals. And there have been even more reports of TT's running over 500 RWHP on stock internals. I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great. Personally I wouldn't upgrade the internals, unless you're aiming for extreme powerfigures of over 700RWHP -Eric

No, you'll need an Apexi AFC to feed both signals of the AFM's into the ECU. -Eric

Are you using the method with the wheel still on, center cap removed to get to the nut ? So the weight of the car is preventing the wheel from spinning.. (put car in gear, handbrake and if needed a few blocks in front of the wheels) This method, together with a strong 36mm box spanner, a long bar and lots of pentrating oil has worked for me several times, no matter how tight the nut was on. -Eric

-mount the avcr's pressure sensor somewhere dry, since it doesn't like water. -mount the AVCR's headunit somewhere out of direct sunlight...it gets very hot already and it doesn't like any more heat from the sun. -check for boost/vacuum leaks -don't forget to disconnect the stock boost solenoids and....be prepared to get used to the fact that the AVCR has a mind of it's own ;) -Eric

a "small" warning: AFC needs to be set up on a rolling road or you run the risk to blow up your engine in notime. if you get a good chip that has been programmed for your car (on a rolling road), you don't need an AFC. -Eric

Is your car a Non turbo ? This because the early NA's ('89/'90) have different/smaller discs and calipers, compared to the TT's and later model NA's These smaller discs are hard to get (even through Nissan) and it's easier to upgrade your calipers (and discs) of a later model NA/TT -Eric

it needs to be machined. The injector inlets are larger on the 95+ intakes. -Eric

yes, AFC & AVCR can be used together instead of an ECU (EPROM)upgrade, but it's more expensive and less effective. A good chip together with the AVCR is a better combo. -Eric

yes, lower intake is different as well, but the old one can be modified to make the '95+ fuel rail fit. Also the connectors are different -Eric

this maybe ? http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_tt-1_water-hose.html

According to http://www.nissanparts.cc in the US: 76412-30P60 Sill-outer,rh $194.34 76413-30P60 Sill-outer,lh $194.34 Subtotal: $388.67 -Eric

pn: AY140-40965 (J-spec) or 11920-F6501 (EUR/UK-spec) Belts should be exactly the same and interchangable. -Eric

UK/EURO/J-spec TT manual: 283 BHP US-spec TT manual : 300 BHP UK/EURO/J-spec TT auto : 268 BHP US-spec TT auto : 280 BHP US/J-spec NA manual: 230 BHP US/J-spec NA auto: 222 BHP boostlevel of a stock TT US spec is slightly higher compared to a EURO/UK/J-spec car, hence the higher bhp. -Eric

vijay, you have pretty good access to that turbo with the gearbox removed.. And if that doesn't give you enough access yet, you can always lower the engine by lowering the front suspension member. You'll have to pull the gearbox anyhow, also if you want to remove the turbo without pulling the engine. Oh.. and I've driven for a long time with just 3 out of 4 bolts and it didn't leak. -Eric

I can do it for you (program + socket the chip) , but you'll need to send your ECU over to Holland. Contact me if you're interested. -Eric

does it look similar to this ? taken from tt.net: "This is also known as divorced waste gates The reason this type of down pipe works better is because the exhaust coming off the turbo wheel is spinning extremely fast and whipping in a circle….If the exhaust comes off the turbo wheel and inters a much larger area it becomes more turbulent slowing the exhaust velocity….also when the wastegate opens the two turbulent exhaust gases fight each other causing more turbulence."

Available in Japan:

Remus fits both NA and TT, but only 2+2 models. (important note: Remus mufflers are not stainless steel, so they'll rust and fall apart after a few years) -Eric

I've turboed my NA, but it's far from easy and requires engine removal. It is possible without internally modifying the engine, but you'll need LOTS of parts from a TT (turbos, intercoolers, injectors, intake piping, several engine parts) and a custom programmed ECU/EPROM. My "NA" now has 340 hp at the wheels at 0.7 bar of boost and virtually no turbolag compared to a TT. But you'll have to live with the fact that after you've done this "mod" you have reached the end of what is possible with the NA engine (powerwise) Running over 0.7bar requires TT pistons (or better) and TT heads, so you might as well drop in a complete TT engine. There are also supercharged NA's. The airconpump is then replaced by a charger and it requires a lot of custom piping. (you'll also need larger injectors, an intercooler and customized ECU), but you'll run into the same problem that the engine won't be able to stand over 0.7 bar boost. As you can probably see it's far from cost effective to upgrade your NA like this. I did it mostly to see if it was at all possible and because I happened to have a wrecked TT lying around ;) If you have an automatic NA, forget about the idea completely or convert the car to a manual first. Otherwise you'll blow the A/T gearbox to bits within 200 miles. -Eric

Leave the steering joints, it's not really necessary to disconnect them. Only things that really need to be disconnected (from the engine) are: -battery :) -about everything on top of the plenum -aircon and steering pump. -wiring and all small air hoses running to the engine. -intercooler/intake pipes -fan + fanclutch -fuel hoses -alternator (it's easier to remove the complete alternator then to disconnect just the connectors.) -2 hoses running to the oilcooler -2 small hoses running to the heater -Eric