lymon

One my Zeds is currently starring in a dutch soap series:

Manual: 25911-40P10 Auto: 25911-40P11 Though most of the time it's not the sensor that fails but the pinion wears out. pinion part numbers: Manual: 32743-30P18 Auto: 32743-35F18

On a Zed it's not possible to monitor the detonation sensor directly. A disadvantage of the Zed's detonation detection system is that it will only listen to the detonation sensor up to 3500 RPM, probably the signal will become to noisy on any higher RPM's. There are aftermarket knock detectors available..I think HKS or Techtom has one, but I'm not sure if these are any good. If you have a conzult/consult you can see when the ECU detects knock, because it will initially retard the timing by a degree, until it has reached a certain limit and then it will switch the wastegate solenoids and will go into safety mode (safety boost) A better way is to monitor A/F ratios with a wideband O2 sensor or by monitoring the exhaust gas temperatures (by using EGT's). By monitoring these you can PREVENT detonation.. -Eric

Alex, in my opinion it is essential to upgrade the intake and exhaust, the injectors (to 555cc or 740cc), intercoolers and engine cooling system (larger oil cooler and radiator), before upgrading the turbos. the compressed air that comes out of a larger then stock turbo pushing 14 PSI is quite a lot denser (cooler), which means it makes more power at the same amount of boost. This means also that if you are running the stock injectors with larger turbos, they'll max out earlier. I frequently run a boost that peaks to 21 psi on a stock engine/headgasket myself...I've been told from several sources that the stock headgasket can take up to 24-25psi -Eric

The stock engine and pistons are very strong. It can take up to 575-600rwhp as long as everything is running right. The biggest reason the pistons fail earlier is because of detonation or severe overheating. Forged pistons can withstand detonation a lot better. Personally I'd upgrade the injectors before even thinking about upgrading the turbos. The stock 370cc injectors are already at their max with stock turbos running 16-17 psi. The injectors just can't flow enough fuel and max out at around 370rwhp. -Eric

If you can smell it in the car then your heater is most likely leaking. Lift the carpet and see if it's wet.

Early 90's NA's have smaller front discs/calipers. You can get them from Courtesy in the US, but it's probably cheaper to get calipers/discs from a wrecked TT . It's a direct direct swap and you no longer have trouble sourcing discs in the future. -Eric

benefits are that you no longer run the risk of having a waterleak under the plenum. It's also a lot easier to remove the plenum once these hoses have been bypassed. There are no performance benefits, just practical. However.. this system was meant to run coolant through the TB's to prevent icing (which freezes up the TB's in an open position) Though I can't see icing happen on a turboed engine, unless you have VERY effective intercoolers and it's extremely cold outside. -Eric

Unforunately cylinder 6 in our engines is the "weakest link" and most likely to suffer from detonation. I've seen 2 VG30DETT's with a hole in piston nr. 6 myself and heard it is the cylinder that fails most. main reasons: 1. As Andy already pointed out: cast flashings in the water channels around cylinder 6 cause that it gets less cooling then the other cylinders. 2. since the injector for cylinder 6 is the last in line on the rail, it gets a lower fuelpressure and it also gets slightly warmer fuel as the fuel has to move a longer distance in the warm part of the rail (see your point nr. 3) -Eric

Code 13 only comes up when the sensor totally fails (shorted or 0 ohm resistance) In your case it probably gives faulty readings, which should be visible in one of the monitor screens of the conzult. Eg: it shows that the temp is high while the engine is still cold (or vice versa) -Eric

I's not a problem..the Zed has an computer controlled climate control system. On the series 1 Zeds there's not much you can adjust about it. Series 2 Zeds have more options to have control over the climate control. -Eric

maybe this is an idea ? http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1050916

If the fan comes on for no particular reason, it usually means there's something wrong with the connector of the temp. sensor. -Eric

I know :D I had to see proof as well when I heard about it for the first time ;)

bad airflow through intercooler(s) is just as bad...maybe even worse for cars running high boost

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=21410-37P00 Due to high-speed driving conditions the European turbo radiator is 16% more efficient than the US version. Combined with the NISMO radiator cap, this radiator will keep any modified 300ZX cool. Fits turbo 1990-1996 300ZX manual transmission (M/T) models only NISMO Radiator Cap (rated at 18.2 lbs.) is sold separately (see below)

ok, don't know from what car it is, but definitely not a gearbox of a Z32.

yes, I can probably do that :D Send the pictures to: eric.at.300zx-twinturbo.com (replace .at. with @)

Sorry, I won't be able to tell from a picture if it's a TT box or not. differences are VERY small and very hard to see. the speedsensor pinion color is the only easy way to see the difference.

remove the speedsensor (if it came with it) : Red gear on sensor= NA, green/blueish gear = TT other differences are in the bellhousing where te starter mounts, but this very hard to see.

yes, you'll need to remove the wheel and loosen the plastic inner wheel arch (no need to completely remove it) As far as I can remember the tank itself is held by 3 or 4 bolts that are pretty easy accessible

It's behind the plastic inner wheel arch and there is no drain plug, but you can use the small hose that runs to the radiator to drain it.

Removing the canister can lead to a strong fuelsmell around the car. The thick hose runs to the top of the fueltank. I wouldn't block it off, otherwise the tank can't release it's pressure/vacuum Maybe put a small filter on it or route a new shorter hose from the fuel tank to the back of the car, so the fuel vapours/fumes won't get into the car if you drive with opened windows. the 2 smaller pipes run to the plenum, so it's sufficiant to disconnect them from there. -Eric

I've been thinking to reposition the tank to the area where the AIV valves and vacuum tanks of the clutch used to be (on my LHD car at least), which is behind the fender. Probably need another (shape) tank though and filling the tank could be a little difficult, but at least it no longer blocks airflow through the ic. Another possibility would be to use a similar tank as is used for the headlight nozzles on EURO/UK spec models, but this probably only works if you still have a stock(ish) frontbumper. Or... get one of those huge front mount intercoolers ! :D -Eric