lymon

Piston slap is not very common on a Z, only some upgraded engines with a well know make forged pistons may suffer from this. Rattling sounds in the lower RPM's is usually caused by low oil pressure or crank bearings that are on their way out or (...which is a common problem, certainly if the owner doesn't take care of oil changes and/or forgets to check the oil level on a regular basis) See if you can locate the sound. If it's timing belt slap, it's most likely slapping against the top of the plastic covers...so it's pretty easy to locate. If it appears to come from within or bottom of the engine and your oil pressure seems to be good, then the crank bearings are the main suspect -Eric

question is, has he done it before ? It's possible, but you need to have experience to do it that quick. it's probably easier to remove the gearbox.

No, NA/TT rear main seal is the same worldwide. it's the same rear main seal as used for the GA16DE/GA14DE/SR20DE(T)/CD20 and god knows what other engines. :eek: here's a list of pn's for exactly the same part...so pick one: 12279-30P00 12279-18V00 12279-53J10 12279-85Y00 12279-1N500 12279-AD205 I wonder if the prices are the same as well... -Eric

-478mmHG is pretty low...normally it should be around -520mmHG for an engine in good shape and no vacuum leaks. So my fist suggestion: check for vacuum leaks (listen for hissing sounds during idle...normally at the back of the engine or near the throttle bodies)

there's 1 and it's hidden very deep. to get access to it you'll need to remove both plenum and lower intake.

PE (Power Enterprise) makes an oilfilter with magnetic wrap, specially for the Z. costs $15

Doesn't seem to work at my end.. I get a 'urlopen error, connection refused' -Eric

A coffee cup of ATF added to the oil will usually do the trick as well. -Eric

As far as I can see it is the connector that is supposed to be connected to your brakefluid reservoir.

Not to open a can of worms, but do a search on twinturbo.net and you'll soon find you're not the only with this problem. Spring retainer breakage apparently is a pretty "common" fault of the RPS street clutch, because they use stock discs that are not up to the job. RPS now has redesigned their street clutch and no longer use OEM disc's. Not sure where you bought the clutch, but in the US and for those that had the same problem, the disk was replaced by RPS free of charge. -Eric

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/HKS_EVC_III_manual.pdf

sounds like a vacuum leak (notice any hissing sounds ?) Did you bypass the AIV solenoid correctly ? ...otherwise you'll have a vacuum leak -Eric

"do I need to modify my engine mounts ?" :D

If you have T28's with a T3 compressor housing you can probably best have a dremel ready :D

No, not just with TD06's. with most turbos that have a T3 or larger compressor housing you'll have to modify the mounts. -Eric

another nice solution, so you won't have to start drilling holes in the sump: "The billet aluminum oil sandwich adapter is installed above the oil filter, and makes it easy to install aftermarket oil temp/pressure sensors (2 1/8 PT ports and 1 12mm port). Even comes with installation tools. Lowers oil filter by 27mm." http://splparts.com

indeed, that's my first impression after reading your story. but it can also be something more serious to #5 (like a cracked piston) -Eric

http://300zx.com/Products/Powerplant%20Performance/DOOLZ/doolz.asp

seems like #5 has valve problems as #4 has ring problems. -Eric

reconnect the stock boostsolenoids and turn off the boostcontroller. Then if you're able to reach normal stock boost, it's probably your AVCR acting up in some way.. A way to check the wastegates is to disconnect the hoses that run to the wastegate valves and put (pulsating) compressed air on it and look if you can see/hear the little lever that connects to the valve move. (it's best to do this with some help since you have to get under the car to get a better look at the driversside wategate valve) -Eric

it's used for the PRVR. You don't need it, but disable the PRVR first...

Yes, car was modded at the time, but not that heavily..360'ish larger IC's, Nismo 555cc injectors, full exhaust, Apexi intake, JWT chip, Blitz boostcontroller, UD pulley and some other bits. Was running 1.2-1.3 bar on stock turbos at the time. -Eric

297km/h (~185mph) flat out on a German autobahn. speed was according a GPS unit.. so pretty accurate :) The car still felt very stable at that speed -Eric

you can download it from the apexi usa site: wiring diagrams: http://apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/avcrDiagram.pdf http://apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_savcr_wire.pdf manual: http://apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_savcr_ins.pdf

0.4-0.5 bar is max boostlevel with the boostcontroller turned off. Check the wire/connector to the boostactuactor of your AVCR or the actuator itself has packed up. You could also reconnect the stock actuator solenoids and see if you are able to run stock boostlevel (0.6-0.7 bar)...if this is the case then for sure you have a problem with the AVCR's actuator -Eric