lymon

the center/core section of the turbo

1. not always. 2. Not really, but a good alternator shop/specialist should be able to repair it. The NA alternators are very fragile. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine at ~ 2000 rpm.. voltage should be near 14 volt. If it isn't, it's the alternator. You can fit a TT alternator as a cheap upgrade.

If the turbos are fine (no oil leaks or excessive play on the shaft) I'd leave them. If they need replacement for whatever reason, you could replace the CHRA with the original CHRA, which is probably the most reliable and cheapest way to get them back to "as good as new". I haven't found a GT/BB CHRA that is a direct fit for stock turbos yet The GT20 CHRA is the closest I have been able to find, but as I said before the housings need machining. There have been a few posts on twinturbo.net on how to fit the Garrett GT28R turbos as a cheap turbo upgrade. -Eric

a new T-series CHRA from a commonly used turbo costs less then that and with the right tools, you can rebuild a turbo yourself with a new CHRA within one hour. You won't have to balance it since the CHRA comes prebalanced from factory and you basically end up with a brand new turbo. GT-series CHRA's (ballbearing) are slightly more expensive but still very reasonable. Garrett pn. for the GT20 CHRA: 433289-96 compressor-wheel Dp (inner diameter) = 41.6mm (versus stock turbo : 40mm) Dg (outer diameter) = 56.0mm (versus stock turbo : 51mm) trim= 55 (versus stock turbo : 51) turbine-wheel Dp = 47.0mm (versus stock manual turbo : 47.0mm) Dg = 40.0mm (versus stock manual turbo : 38.9mm) trim= 72 (versus stock turbo : 69) The turbine housing from a manual turbo fits, although it might need some small machining to make a little more room for the slightly larger exducer. The compressor housing doesn't fit without machining, since the GT20 wheel is quite a bit larger.

Have you disconnected the stock actuator solenoids ?

I wouldn't bother trying to rebuild a turbo with a rebuild-kit I lost count of the stories about (proffesional) rebuilt and rebalanced stock turbos that didn't even last for 6 months Best way (IMO) is to rebuilt it with a brandnew CHRA (center section) Garrett partnr. for the CHRA (manual turbos) : 431876-0041 I'm currently looking into the possibility using GT20 (ballbearing) CHRA's for stock turbos. Only problem sofar is the compressor housing needs to be machined slightly to make it possible to fit the 5mm larger compressor wheel

Yes...and the flanges for the driveshafts are different also

Apparently this was a prototype conversion done by a French/Swiss company. website: http://retractable.free.fr/uk/index.html (go to section "prototypes", and select Nissan 300ZX)

That's a kit for a Z31. a (custom) kit for a Z32 should look like this:

only S13's with the SR20DET (rare edition) have the DDL connector...all other S13's have the black (old type) diagnostic connector and are not consult compatible. The conzult works fine on late model 200's, like the S14, S14a and S15. -Eric

none really...although some only come with an instruction manual in Japanese :D

between 80 and 90 Celcius. Anything below or above that and the ECU will start to make (small) adjustments to either timing , AFR and base-idle...probably meant to help to get the engine to the 80-90 Celcius operating temperature. -Eric

http://www.takakaira.com/

> 300 n/a 1991 auto has had problems with selecting gear Does it change gear as soon as back off the throttle ? It might be a dodgy sensor in the box or wrong adjustment of the TPS. otherwise gearbox most likely needs a rebuild. > the engine tends to surge between 1500 to 2500 revs on light throttle. Tried resetting the ECU ? also check O2-sensors, neutral switch and closed throttle switch. > have changed tps Have you set the new TPS to the correct voltage (0.40-0.46v at closed and >4 volts at full throttle) and reset the ECU after replacement ? -Eric

>> Didn't Wazza's car blow up on the way back from the ring he lost most of his coolant and blew up a headgasket on the ring... >> Would anybody else be interested in meeting at the ring or having a huge convoy down there? Depends on the exact date and weather conditions, but I'm in for a meeting at the ring.

I've been on the ring a few times and 'd suggest you take extra brake pads, coolant, fuel, oil and tools with you...these are a must. be careful with a radar detector as these are a no-no in most european countries. Just having a detector in your car (without even using it) can lead to huge fines, which usually needs to be paid in cash !!

you can't really see the difference, but you might be able to find out from the engine number on the back of the engine. >ive heard that the cams are diffrent on the jap spec engines and some other stuff to but im not 100% not completely true... The difference in camshafts is between auto's and manuals and some engines from '97 or later (these are rare)...but these can be easily recognised by the missing VTC solenoids. There are several ways to see if you have a "manual spec" engine: flywheel, small pilot bushing, exhaust side turbos (it has AR:63 written on it) or remove the camshaftcovers and look at the partnrs. on the camshafts. -Eric

Check the temperature sensor (and the connector for oxidation)

bitrate is different. DAT uses 48kHz and CD is 44.1kHz I used to convert to CD in the days that I still had a DAT recorder. I had a fiber optical cable from the DAT recorder to my soundcard and used Wavelab to feed the music in digital format to my computer and then converted it to 44.1kHz. -Eric

Have you tried drilling out the remaining bolt (or stud ?) using a flexible drill shaft ?

a real Xenon bulb should look like this (fitment can vary though)

Nothing like a good old VH45DETT :D http://www.freewebs.com/axepower/

First see if you can locate the source of the sound. it might be the tensioner pulley of the aircon...they tend to go in a "squeaky" way :) or slightly worse: one of the timingbelt (tensioner) pulleys If turning the aircon on/off makes the sound go different, the aircon tensioner pulley is most likely the cause.. -Eric

yes, Z32 manual gearboxes are internally the same for all models/flavours/countries. The propshafts are different for NA/SWB/2+2 You can even use a NA manual box ..the only thing that's different on the NA box is the bellhousing, but this can be swapped with the bellhousing of a TT. a SWB TT box will fit a 2+2 TT without any modifications.

drill ? :D