lymon

I have rerouted the complete PCV system and now use one of those on my main crank ventilation in/outlet.

rear camber is (slightly) adjustable

From the top of my head, The line that runs into the chassis is a blank line, you can just pull it out. There's one or 2 vacuum hoses that run to the plenum/intercooler piping (just cap those off) one line that runs to the fueltank ...the actual breather line: leave that one open. For the PRVR bypass just connect the 2 small pipes (one coming from the f.regulator and one into the plenum) together and rip the solenoid and all hoses out. -Eric

the tube runs behind the exhaust manifold, so you'll have to remove that first. A lot of work if you want to do that without lifting the engine. Although you could cut it in several pieces and pull it out, but you won't be able to put a new pipe back the way it's supposed to. -Eric

stock vs. JWT500's: http://z1-motorsports.com/imageGallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=sport-500-s-vs-stock

the 500's use stock housings, so these are indeed straight plug & play. the 530's have a T25 turbine, like the HKS 2530, which needs a 5 bolt exhaust flange, so you'll need different downpipes.

>Unfortunately i think its head gasket due to the lemmonade style bubbles and frothy milkshake certainly looks like headgasket or warped head(s), judging from those videos.

EGT's depend on other factors as well. but too large wheels in stock housings (eg t25/t28) won't do much good to the EGT's since the efficiency of these kind of hybrid turbos is completely messed up. The JWT500's use a special compressor wheel, which is just slightly larger then the stock compressor wheel, but has a smaller 56trim (stock has a 61 trim wheel) which still gives pretty decent efficiency

they usually do a "core charge". which means you'll get eg. 400USD back as soon as they have recieved your old turbos and the shells have been confirmed not to have any cracks. >> Does any one know what they actually do with them? slightly larger/different wheels and modified housings

JWT500's and JWT600's are basically rebuild and modified stock turbos the "core" they mention means you need to send a pair of stock turbos to them...this can be eg. your old pair of turbos. It doesn't matter if the the turbos have seized, since that part will be rebuild/replaced, but it's very important that there is no damage to the housings and, especially for the JWT500, the turbine housing (exhaust-section) shouldn't have small cracks otherwise the core will be worthless to them.

>>In hot weather the boost can drop by 1 psi and increase by 1 psi in cold weather but nothing as drastic as has been mentioned. I use a Profec B spec II boost controller. that's because a boost controller bypasses the safteyboost. The ECU can be in safetyboost and you won't even know it...but the ECU switches to safetyboost for a reason and it's usually not such a good idea to ignore it. There are simple ways to have a boostcontroller and also keep the safetyboost feature or you could have a warning light that shows if the ECU has switched to safetyboost. more info: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101 or http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/SB-ind.html

Zed's don't like hot weather. cooling can be a major issue with these hot days and the first signs are overflowing coolant reservoirs and aux. fans that are switched on constantly. I know it can be hard with this heat, but try to avoid using the aircon and keep a good eye on the coolant level. Also if you are running higher then stock boostlevels, try to avoid running at full boost or switch the boostcontroller off (if you have one) The hot outside temperatures can cause detonation...even on completely stock cars. If you are running a jspec chip or any other chip that was programmed for 100+ octane fuel you could experience light detonation (or pinging) in the higher gears. If the det. sensor is working properly, the car will switch to safetyboost because of the detting and it'll feel like your handbrake is on all the time :) To get the car out of safetyboost again, it's best to park the car and turn off the engine for 10 seconds and start it up again. But most likely it will get into safetyboost again as soon as you get into one of the higher gears. -Eric

there's a switch under the brake pedal. sometimes you need to turn the ignition on, and press the brake pedal a few times, before you're able to put it back into Park. -Eric

this is very unlikely, since the oil has to pass through intercooler tubing/hoses + intercoolers first. oil on sparkplug(s) is usually a sign of some advanced form of engine wear, either worn rings or leaking valve oil seals. You said you measured compression...how much was it ? Is there a lot of oil inside the plenum ? (as far as you can see) If so, there might be something wrong with the PCV system -Eric

I have tried fitting Z seats in a GTIr a few years back, but ran into problems. As far as I can remember it was something with a large bulge under the GTIr seats that was in the way or something. Anyway, the result was they didn't fit. (or at least not without some major modification.) however this was in a LHD car, so for a RHD it might be different. -Eric

BTT Anyone coming ? :D The registrations can be send in until July otherwise contact me if you have any questions. -Eric

First check ECU connector (if you disconnected it during the rebuild) Then remove CAS, but leave it connected to the wiring harness, put ignition on and turn the CAS manually, the injectors should make a clicking sound. If not, check the connectors and/or wiring harness of the CAS and injectors.

You can cut the wires or disconnect the connectors of the actuators. You can also just pull the main connector on the control unit that sits under the fuel pump controller -Eric

I recieved a DVD from a Nissan dealer this weekend with some Nissan commercials. To my surprise it also had a short commercial from 2005 that quickly goes through the Zed's history. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/vidz/Z-shift.avi

Shouldn't make much difference. the dowels are there to make it easier to install (and line up) the cover.

oil in the intake piping is usually caused by small amounts of oil that came out through the upper PCV lines (the pipes that run behind the throttle bodies). It could very well be that the oil was already in the pipe(s) for years and now finally has an opportunity to leak out through the BOV, since the apexi's sit at a low point of the intake piping. Try to clean it as much as possible and see if it returns. (There's a good chance that the intercooler might also have some oil in it.) -Eric

just stuff the pickup in the small space between the plenum and coil #1. Works with both my timinglights

the '90+ VG30DET takes even more room

a> in a "stripped" S14: yes b> no, the lack of space around the engine (in a Zed) and the fact that you need 2 of everything is the main problem/cause..you'd probably have even less space in a S14 (if the VG even fits it at all) c> very good, strong and reliable engine. You'd better get an inline 6 for your project, like the RB25DET (or RB26DETT with RB25 gearbox.) -Eric