lymon

heat could be the cause of this problem . turning on the Aircon will have a strong influence on the engine temperature...sometimes up to +10 Celcius and especially on auto's it can even cause overheating problems (since the AT box is also cooled through the radiator) Detonation will occur far more easily on engines that are running (too) hot and especially when running tunes from Japan, which are usually too aggresive for european fuel. -Eric

The ECU controls the idle based on engine temperature. up to 30 Celcius it should be around ~1200 rpm between 30 and 85 Celcius it will drop to ~750 rpm from 85 celcius and up, the idle RPM will start rising again up to ~ 1000RPM maybe that explains your "problem" ? -Eric

you'd have MAJOR cooling problems with this bumper...

or you could try this :D http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/q45v8z-testfit.html

I recently passed (Dutch) MOT inspection with HID converted lights without any problems. And I (no longer) have the headlamp washers. They told me that as long as the pattern is correct and it's alligned correctly there shouldn't be any reason to fail "European" tests (regarding the headlights) -Eric

Fuel pump running at full speed ?

I have an oil temperature gauge (which I can strongly recommend) and it can take up to 15 minutes before the engine (oil) is at operating temperature. Normally it takes at least 10 minutes for the oil to reach around 75 Celcius So I wouldn't start to play within the first 10 minutes.. ;) -Eric

I did some more digging and apparantly there were 3 different sized MBC's used in the Z32. So it might be usefull to check which one you have: 46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16"/26.99mm NA Tokico) 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16"/26.99mm TT Tokico) 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16"/26.99mm NA & TT Tokico) 46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16"/23.81mm NA Nabco non-ABS) 46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16"/26.99mm NA Nabco) 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16"/26.99mm TT Nabco) 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16"/26.99mm NA & TT Nabco) 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1"/25.4mm NA TT Tokico) 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1"/25.4mm NA & TT Tokico) 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1"/25.4mm NA & TT Nabco) 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up (1"/25.4mm NA & TT Nabco) -Eric

afaik the GTR has a 25.4 diameter...and skyline owners use our MBC as an upgrade :D also the largest AP racing MBC is (just) 25.4. You could however upgrade to a twin MBC system though ;)

cylinder bore according to the service manual (BR-55): 26.99mm -Eric

before you start stripping the interior... see if all 4 brakelight lamps are dual filaments/dual contact type lamps...if one (or more) isn't, the strangest things can happen.

it's either the cruise control or HICAS ECU

>>yeh engine was on. any problems with hicas not working. It shouldn't cause any problems, unless the rear wheels are locked in an incorrect position or when the HICAS rear power cylinder is allowing too much free movement on the rear wheels >>So would it really still work with the autobox in 'park' ? Yes, for autos put the gearbox to "P", for manuals put gearbox in neutral -Eric

Vijay, was it showing readings of the sensors ? And what version of the software did you use ? (v2.0 should work fine..there were problems with v1.2 and v1.3) I had a chance to test/demonstrate it on quite a few cars at Billing and it worked fine for most Zeds. (except for the ones that had HICAS disabled or those that were known to be faulty) It even worked fine on a few Skylines I demonstrated the conzult on :) -Eric

Was the engine on ? (HICAS needs hydraulic pressure from the pump to be able to operate) If it was, then there's probably something wrong with your HICAS system -Eric

Craig, if I remember correctly your car was restricted at 180kmh/112mph (like all jspec cars) To get the full potential out of your car, will be a bit of a problem, since your car had a new type ECU which can't be upgraded that easily. -Eric

A faulty CAS can cause those problems as well and there's quite an easy way to tell if the CAS causes the problem or not. Once the stumbling/misfires/whatever start, keep the car in gear and have a good look at the the tacho and see if the needle bounces down to 0 and back to it's original RPM very quickly. if that's the case, it's almost certainly a CAS related problem (connector/wiring/CAS) -Eric

code 34 is a fault in the detonation sensor circuit and has nothing to do with running rich on one bank. First suspect is probably the o2 sensor(s) on that side. quick and dirty trick to pass emissions anyway: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/co/co.html

I'm not sure about RHD cars, but usually you only have to bend/grind (dremel) away the small metal plate , that fixes the loom going in the car, out of the way. No need to remove the dashboard, because even by removing it, you still won't have access to this small plate, since it's behind the aircon stuff and you'd have to remove that also. Once you have the plate out of the way and the old loom out and you are ready to put the new loom back, I have found it's best to get the big white connecter in first and the blue ECU connector in second...but it's a bit fiddly and you may have to bend the firewall around the hole a little. -Eric

There's only one good way to tell and that's by monitoring the AFM voltage: if you're able to reach voltages of around 5.1-5.2 volt, then you are exceeding the capabilities of the AFM and you need to look at a dual intake system (with single or dual MAF) or at a MAP based system (like the MAP-ecu or HKS VPC)

The TP cut works by cutting the fuel (injectors stay closed) .. the engine would flood otherwise.

no, recalibrating using the pot will adjust the characteristic. if the speedo shows a speed that is consistently a few ml/km off (as in you case) it's just a matter of adjusting the needle. -Eric

Instead of mig tips you can also use carburetor nozzles, since these are available in a lot more sizes (in 0.02 mm size steps: 0.80, 0.82, 0.84, 0.86, etc.) The nozzles are also easier to remove then mig tips.

if the o2 sensor(s) signal is static and stays hanging at around 0.3 volt then that sensor is dead or it's disconnected. if the o2 sensor voltage is very low at idle then there might be a vacuum leak in the system. if the o2 sensor stays at approx. 0.8 volt at idle there might be something wrong with the timing/PTU/coilpacks/plugs/injectors. if the o2 sensor is above 1 volt, it's dead and needs to be replaced asap...best is to disconnect it until it's been replaced. common rule: The more lively the signal is, the better the state the sensor is in and it's working as it's supposed to.

They do fit on a zed with a larger oilcooler. You can also fit them "upside down" (sort of) , so they'll end up in the free area near/under the headlights. I have fitted them this way and they work fine...if you want I can take a picture of it. -Eric