lymon

easy/dirty trick: use a socket wrench with a long handle of at least 60cm (or extend a standard one using a strong bar which fits over the handle) and manually turn the pulley clockwise until the handle/bar rests against the left side of the swaybar/chassis. now unplug the PTU (or better: remove all sparkplugs) and start the engine..let it turn over 1 or 2 times and the bolt will be loose. I've used this trick several times and it works like a charm. :) Note: You might want to wrap the handle/bar in a towel or rag, so it can't do any damage when it slams against the swaybar. -Eric

John, sounds like a classic example of a faulty TPS selflearn level in the ECU. This problem should be fixed when you disconnect the TPS and start the engine (or turn ignition on). Have you tried that ? -Eric

Small but important addition to setting the TPS voltage correctly: After the TPS has been set to the correct voltage, the TPS connector has to be disconnected and ignition has to be turned on for a short while. This will clear the TPS selflearn levels in the ECU. -Eric

No. I have 3 sets from manual TT's laying here and sure enough they all have steel wheels. It won't be easy to fit the skyline tubs to a 300. You also have to make custom exhaust flanges/gaskets, since the bolt pattern is different compared to other 5 bolt turbos

GT28's, R34 V-spec has ballbearing ones. (GT28R)

I've got experience with the profec-A, profec B spec-II and the latest profec B Spec-S The older profec-A has a boostguage, the older profec-B doesn't. The B Spec-II has a digital boostgauge, (which doesn't need recalibrating...it's very accurate) The latest Profec B (the profec B Spec-S) doesn't have a digital boostgauge either. -Eric

>Dose anyone have a cheap good prop for sale? Note: You'll also have to specify if your car is a 2 seater or 2+2, since the propshaft is different. A TT propshaft won't fit a NA either.. >Also with out spending a furtune what would the most cost effective mod I could do? most upgrades for the NA only give a very marginal power increase (unless you modify the engine internally) -Set base timing to 17-18BTDC (free mod) -Apexi intake. -UD-pulley -X-pipe + better flowing mufflers. -Eric

this is a very nice one (IMO): http://www.heirloomrockinghorses.com/zx_page_3.htm or by adding an extra gauge: http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/water_temp_gauge/water_temp_gauge.htm -Eric

Have you tried the German Z32 forum ? http://www.z32.de there are a few experts over there also (eg. DoctorZ). Maybe they could have a look at your car and be able to help diagnose your problems (if there are any). -Eric

Unless your car is chipped, the top speed is limited to 250km/h. 7-8s for 0-100 is (too) slow for an automatic. That's probably water from the aircon drain dripping onto the exhaust. I presume you have an accurate boostgauge to tell max boost is 0.58 bar ? The stock temperature gauge is near useless. The coolant could be at boiling point and the gauge would be still in the middle position. Yes, 100 watt lamps will damage the chrome from the reflectors (due to excessive heat). I noticed this after converting quite a headlights to xenon/hid and the lights that had been running too high wattage lamps all had reflectors that were beyond repair (chrome had burned off) If you want better lights, convert the lamps to Xenon.

In short: No (different ratios)

It's possible , but you'll need a laptop (or "in car-pc") that has a video-out or CVBS connector that connects to your screen. -Eric

yes, everything after the main cats will fit as long as the wheelbase is the same. The NA main cats can also be used on TT's without precats (Jspec's) and vice versa -Eric

having the aircon on has a very strong influence on the coolant temperature. This because the AC condensor in front of the radiator gets extremely hot. If your cooling system is not working 100% it can cause severe overheating problems when driving around in heavy stop-go traffic. This is especially the case for automatics, since the radiator has to cool the AT box as well...(and the AT box also gets hotter then normal in stop/go traffic) I found this useful checklist/guide last week regarding cooling problems: http://members.optusnet.com.au/markfield/overheating.html -Eric

Aaron, I think you have me confused with someone else ;) I'm running Castol RS (10W60) from the day it was invented. I personally have never used any oil thinner then 10W in a Zed, some experts even say to use 20W50 during the summer for upgraded VG30DETT's...I've never tried that though. And to get back to the subject of this post.... I think you have used the wrong hoses (as already suggested) The actuator hoses are the hoses that run from the inner (closest to the radiator) pipes. Another cause of not reaching full boost can be caused by a MASSIVE boostleak somewhere or one or both your recirc valves are broken (read: stay open) -Eric

this purge or air separation system is a modification available for skylines a lot of mazdas (eg. RX7) have a similar system called AST in stock form or is this the same as the "swirl pot" ? (never heard this term before)

The lower support is different, but it can be modified (eg. cut and reweld) And I don't know about a TT radiator being an upgrade since the surface area is actually smaller than the NA radiator. -Eric

5.7L V8 from an LS1: not only more capacity, but also quite a bit lighter as the VG30DE (look at the front wheels) ...so maybe that is why he had to lower it 11cm :D -Eric

"NO" .. unless you have turbos with external wastegates

Can you give a more detailed description of the actual problem ? What made you decide to replace the sensor ? "it won't change gear without revving" Sounds more like a gearbox problem.. Did you do a AT ECU selfdiagnosis ? what were the errors ? -Eric

Ryan, according to several temperature related tables in the ECU, engine temperatures between 81 and 90 Celcius are considered most ideal. Anything below or above this range will cause a correction in either AFR's or ignition. for auto's the idle "should" be ideal between 66 and 85 celcius, for manuals between 71 and 85 celcius, so I used 75 celcius in the software as an average for both -Eric

simple test: drive for a while and let the car idle, turn AC on. if the aux. fan switches on, the engine temp is 90Celcius or higher : engine is running hot. turn off the AC. if the aux. fan stays on : the engine temp is 105Celcius or higher : engine is (seriously) overheating. As a second check you can switch on the heater at high temp and full speed, if the air coming from the heater stays cold, there is a airlock in the cooling system. if the fan stays off in either case: engine temp is below 90 Celcius : normal operating temperature. (the above is only applicable if you have a working aux. fan and a working coolant temperature sensor ;) ) Hope this helps. Eric

Also check base timing (with a timing light)...should be 15BTDC spot on

No, the idle adjustment screen overides the ECU control over idle, so idle should stay at a similar level...even after blipping the throttle. although it sometimes takes some time for the idle to completely drop to base idle level again.. other things that can influence idle: -throttle cable too tight -incorrect TPS adjustment -dirty throttle bodies -faulty injectors or coilpacks (or connectors).