lymon

HICAS doesn't work when standing still unless it's in diagnostic mode.

you mean the (blue) noltec mounts ? to be honest I wouldn't use those. They don't seem to last very long in the Zed's hot enginebay: another solution might be this: http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/index.cfm?action=view&type=post&postid=274387 Where a guy on the aussie forum modified mounts from a Jag XJS to fit a Zed

>> Are you referring to PIN44 on the ECU? yes on the ECU... for location see : http://300zx-twinturbo.com/manual/eccsdiag/001.gif

>> Are you saying I've missed something? yes, a (common) issue on AT > MT converted cars is that the P/N switch has not been connected to the ECU (pin 44) This can cause the timing at idle to go to 25 BTDC at idle, because the ECU "thinks" the car is in gear when it's not. A quick fix is just to earth pin 44.

although the car in the picture seems to be a swb zed, which were never sold in Europe ?

The GTR kit is just slightly better. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/gtr/gtr32brake.htm real noticable improvement is with kits that use larger rotors (even with the kits that make use of standard calipers and relocation brackets.)

Skyline GTR32 brakes do fit (just) with standard wheels (you'll need a small 2mm spacer) I don't think you'll find many 6 pot kits that'll fit even 17" wheels, since all the kits that I know of use larger rotors

Not related to the link above, but still a classic "crazy jap" product always wanted to make a pickup out of your Zed ? then here's your chance: http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h27440617

>> But is there any relation between my new chips and the timing tweak? no, I've yet to see a chip that alters the timing at idle and doesn't have the timing at 15 BTDC at idle with fully warmed up engine do you have a manual or automatic ? the AT error means the communication between the engine ECU and transmission ECU has been lost. Or...you are running a chip that was programmed for an automatic in a manual ECU (in this case you can ignore the error)

>> We can increase horse power by increasing it up to 19° max. That what I've read on the How to section!!! Bad idea ! might work on a stock car running stock boost, but NEVER do this on a car that has increased boost > My problem is that my car is running 25°. Check you P/N (neutral gear) sensor/wiring. This is also a problem that can occur when the car has been modified from auto to manual and they "forgot" to wire the neutral switch sensor from the gearbox to the ECU.

interesting topic. I've read the article of "motoman" before and he may have a very good point. I recently had to replace the heads of an engine that was rebuild 2 years ago and it was run in the traditional way. The interesting thing was that you could still see the honing marks on the cylinder walls. So no way the rings could have been sealing 100% >>all Europe-bound Z32s were run an max speed on the dyno before leaving the factory. where does it say this ? I never heard about this before ?

shipping an engine from the states to a European harbour is usually around $700 On a sidenote: I wouldn't recommend getting an engine from Z1. (do a search on twinturbo.net for some Z1 engine horror stories) If you want to get an engine from the US, get it from SGP. Their engines seem to be much better. But it's better to have an engine build locally at a well known/good engine rebuilder, also in case of warranty issues (I don't think you want to get the engine out again and send it back to the US to get it fixed in case something is wrong ?)

some really good suggestions in this article: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/projectcars/9909scc_proj300zx/

I suppose I'm a bit to blame here. As Peter drove at the front and trying to keep the pace up at 75+ mph (we had lost quite some time and had to make it up in some way to get in Namur/campingsite on time), I tried to stay as much at the back of the group trying to act as some sort of "shepherd". But once we got into a traffic jam I lost sight of most of the cars that were last in the group (Chris, Greg and a black Z) and the only car left was the car with Mark (topless) and Rich (chunk) in it. I wasn't aware of Chris' cooling problems and I certainly would have tried to stay with him more if I knew. After we got out of the traffic jam we drove slowly for some time, hoping Chris, Greg and the other Zed to catch up, but unfortunatley they didn't. We went to the meeting point were Blacky was waiting for us and at that time Mark tried to get in contact with Chris to no avail. After we waited for another 30 minutes we then went to Namur for the photoshoot and there Mark tried to reach Chris again several times (again to no avail.) We had no idea of what had happened and neither did we, at that moment, have a way to get in contact with Chris or the others to find out about their location/situation. Anyway...after all, to make a long story short, I understand that Chris' radiator was fixed/replaced and I still hope that everyone had a good time, besides all the trouble and annoyances. Maybe next time we need to plan a schedule that is less tight and find some way to be able to communicate better during the trip to avoid these kind of problems. As has been said before, most of the UK mobiles didn't work in Europe or only in one way. (I had Mark's phonenumber and I was able to call him but not the other way around.) sure, when ? :D -Eric

It's not used. It's only used if you have the "Boost MAP Analyzer", which is an addon to the controller.

TT radiator in a NA is not plug and play, but can be done. The lower mounts are different, but there are ways around that (eg. reposition the old mounts or find some other way to support the radiator). Also the upper radiator hose has a slightly different shape, but can be made to fit. PS: the TT rad is actually smaller !! but should still be sufficient for a NA -Eric

common mistake. The left VTC solenoids (one of the 2 round "sensors" at the back of your engine) is connected to the det sensor plug. the wire that is now connected to it should be connected to a plug at the left side of the engine, which is now probably just hanging there. it should be near a 3 wire connector (black/red/white) just like the other 3 wire connector that is on the picture BTW: the 3 wire connectors with the black/red/white cables are from your o2-sensors the real det. sensor connector should be somewhere at the back of your engine or it has broken of ?

2.5" is fine

yes, approx. 0.6 bar at most.

>>Am i right in assuming you take the hose your boost jets goes into, split it and conect to the 2 fittings on the solinoid (linkind the R and L hoses up first) ? Correct. (but don't forget to get the boostjets out first) Basically you just T both hoses that come from the wg actuators together and connect it to the OUT port and T both hoses coming from the intercooler pipes together (where the wg actuator hoses used to be connected to) and connect to the IN port.

In a way it's ok to have a leak there (unless you have disconnected/blocked the front pcv hoses). If you don't have a leak it proves your crankcase seals and rockercover gaskets have no airleaks, which is nice to know but kind of useless, since that part of the engine doesn't/shouldn't see any positive pressure with the engine running. It's also the reason why you don't put too much pressure on the system when doing a boostleak test, because you run the risk of blowing several oil seals/gaskets out that are not supposed to cope with positive pressure.

they are the ones that are pressurising your crankcase during a boostleak test. (that was your question wasn't it ?) It's not a case of them being blocked or leaking, since there's no valve mechanism in the front hoses they're always open and a boostleak test where you are putting pressure on spots that are normally vacuum will cause these kinds of effects. -Eric

front pcv hoses.

have any detailed pictures ?

some slight modification to the bonnet and an eaton M90 blower should do the trick :D