lymon

Is this a new profec ? or did it start acting like this all of a sudden ? check the power input.. sounds like you connected the profec to a dodgy 12volt or ground source...best is to use the same power source as the radio. -Eric

>> Its a "w" design intake with a single maf Ok, then I think that's your problem....the W-design is not a genuine dual intake. See if things improve if you get a chip for a single maf/intake

best is to install XP on a fresh second disk and when finished connect the 160Gb drive as a slave and copy all data that you need from it to your new disk. Or, you can use one of those bootable XP distros...but eitherway you'll need a second disk or network share to copy the data to.

How does the car behave at higher revs ? Is it a completely seperated dual intake ? or a "W" design ? (where both intakes come together into 1 MAF)

> so do Bomex make a replica version of this then? no. AFAIK there is no replica of this spoiler.

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/Articles/tk.htm http://www.neuralmotion.com/m30z/ http://www.tommykaira.com/

Does anyone have this DVD ? if so, can I have a copy ? :D http://jp.z.com/HERITAGE/Z32/MOVIES/z32_bb.mpg http://www.avexnet.or.jp/fairladyz/

(custom made) recaro seats were an option on the Japanese 1994/2000 "Version S * Recaro" models

basically you have 2 model injectors: up to '94 with a rectangle shaped connector '94-'99 have a oval type connector. When replacing the injectors, replace the fuelrail insulators as well, as the old ones are usually worn/broken/missing Also, get some new injector o-rings . You might be able to reuse the old injector o-rings, but best is to get new ones. -Eric

yes. under the nosepanel is the best location, but involves a bit of work the get the harness in that direction: http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/moveptu/movingptu_option3.htm

maybe a hose blew off/up somewhere (hear anything hissing ?)

Did some hard cornering ? The smoke might have been caused by oil that was sucked into the plenum through the PCV's

yes

>> It is a series I PTU and still in the standard place. ok, then this is the first suspect. Also check the CAS, as it can get extremely hot as well and can cause the same similar strange behavior as a dodgy PTU

any particular (coolant) temperature when the problems start to occur ? or is it random ? Do you have a new or old model PTU ? (the new ones are pretty heat resistant) option B sounds unlikely, but it could have something to do with the fuel (rail) temperature. The ECU takes (safety) measures as soon as the fueltemps get out of hand and it might be what you are experiencing. and ofcourse, the standard question: got any errorcodes ? :D

probably a heatshield... the ones around the maincats are notorious for getting hit when going over speedbumps and otherwise the heatshield above the propshaft could be loose.

maybe the small connector (that connects to the solenoid ) at the back of the controller is the problem ? (bend pins/loose/wiring problem) Perhaps a very wild guess, but check your voltage with running engine. If it's more then 14V or less then 11V your alternator could be causing the problem -Eric

I'd first try to solve THAT, before doing any stripping of plenum/heads/injectors. A leaky injector/seal won't cause that. Also in this case there is a leak, the cylinder will be filled with petrol in no time (after letting the car stand for a few hours) This is also a very bad for your engine, since fluids (like water/fue) won't compress as much as air and you can hydrolock your engine while trying to start it. Also do a compression test and if results are bad for nr. 1, you may have found your problem. >> check if me head bolts are all tight! I doubt that's your problem.... But, you're supposed to do that before putting the engine back together. the service manual specifically states to tighten the bolts to spec, loosen them all completely again and tighten them to spec for a second time.

sorry, but still disagree with you also :D the turbo used on this single conversion is "smaller" then a GT45 and it already needed a 3.5" downpipe. you can also clearly see there is absolutely NO room for an engine mount. >> a 3" will flow just enough for the GT45 and taken from the link that was posted: >> Its a Garrett Master Power GT45, ball bearing turbo, 60mm inlet, 100mm outlet, 0.66 A/R in and 1.06 A/R out, good for flowing over 100lbs of air a minute!!! The GT45 indeed has an 4" (105mm) outlet, so why on earth do you want to try to fit a 3" pipe to that if you're aiming for maximum power ? (and also...I don't quite understand why you want to fit a turbo that was designed for 4500+ cc engines to a ~3000cc engine, but that's probably just me ;) )

check the CAS or the connector on the CAS it can cause very similar problems as a dodgy PTU

>> with a 3" hole in the center that allows the zorst to pass through 3" ??? that's far too small. That's the size of a pipe needed for a stock sized turbo. With the GT45 you are planing to use, you'll need a downpipe of at least 5" in diameter !

I'm curious how/where are you going to fit the engine mount on the turbo side of the engine ?? Obviously you won't be able to use the stock engine mount on that side anymore because of the huge downpipe

>> I may be being thick but if its eathed will there be any problem when in gear? No, it won't cause any problems, but like I said earlier this is a quick fix. To do it properly just connect the switch in the gearbox to the ECU.

> i wouldnt think you would notice it anyway. doesnt it turn only half a degree or sommat? if HICAS is working correctly and in diag mode you can see it very clearly.

yes, you'll need a reprogrammed chip for larger injectors