lymon

If you have an aftermarket steeringwheel, then that's the problem The stock steering wheel needs to be exactly centered when going in a straight line. This can be checked by using a conzult/consult. (the HICAS hub angle sensor behind the steering wheel needs to be at exactly 0 degrees when the wheel is centered) -Eric

most common HICAS problems are low on fluid or steering wheel is not centered correctly when going straight.

>> Anybody know the difference between NA and TT radiators? >> Is it just the mounts? According to the Koyo catalog there are 3 types of koyo rads available for the NA as well. An official koyo dealer should be able to get a hold of these. The NA radiator is wider then a TT radiator and because of this the lower mounts are at a different location. You should be able to fit a TT Koyo radiator to a NA, but it involves repositioning the lower mounts (cut/weld) -Eric

according to data I collected from several rolling road sessions from different cars it looks like 3.8V equals approx. 440 RWHP for a dual intake - single maf config. 3.0 V equals approx 200-210 rwhp. Though it greatly depends on factors like turbo and intercooler efficiency. -Eric

>> new dual pop Xstream with JWT program bad combo...JWT is programmed for a fully divided intake. >> at WOT, the airflow never gives more than 3 volts (instead of 4.5 volts) with a dual intake/single MAF system you won't get 4.5Volt unless you have MEGA power. I see you're in Belgium and since I work for DTA-motorsport in Holland and we have our workshop not far from the Belgium border, you might want to come round to have us look at the problem you're experiencing ? You can contact me/us at info@dta-motorsport.com -Eric

check the main temperature sensor connector at the front of the engine (the yellow one)

measure voltage accross battery terminals while the engine is running. should be close to 14 Volt. anything lower then 13.5 V and the alternator is not working/charging or there is a wiring issue.

try a full compression test on all 6 cylinders first. Severly cooked VG30 engines usually have warped heads and/or holed pistons, which shows up as low to no compression on one or more cylinders. if compression is fine on all cylinders (~10 bar) then you still have the risk of a damaged headgasket, but the engine should at least start and if failing that it's probably some electric fault that is causing the car not to start.

fitting R32/R33 GTR turbos to a Zed can be done but is a LOT of work and is not worth it (IMO) Turbos are only marginal larger, but can run only 1 bar of boost max. due to ceramic turbinewheels. fitting GTR 34 N-spec turbos to a Zed is a completely different story and is worth the work.These turbos are comparible to the HKS GT2530 turbos. -Eric

TT injectors plastic part have a brownish/blueish color. NA injectors are red

your heater problem could be caused by a faulty/missing thermostat or as Mark said you have an airlock. best and cheapest HID kits are Audi/BMW/Mercedes "retrofits"..they can be bought from breakers or ebay. You'll need a set of ballasts and a set of Philips D2S bulbs examples: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E39-Xenon-Ballast-Starters-x2-Angel-Eyes-M5_W0QQitemZ4586298621QQcategoryZ10374QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAIR-OF-D2S-XENON-HID-BULBS_W0QQitemZ8011768918QQcategoryZ72235QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I have converted a few headlights like this and the result is VERY good, but it's far from plug and play and you will need to completely remove and dissassemble (and clean) both headlights. After dissassembly you need to remove the original socket from the projector part of the headlight and glue the new D2S bulbs into place using strong epoxy glue. (Since these bulbs have a very long life expectancy you don't realy need to worry about removal for a long time.) -Eric

here's the rest of it :D http://300zx-twinturbo.com/pimpz/Default.htm

Have you checked it with a conzult yet ?

you're sure it also gets a spark on the suspected cylinder ?

seen this before twice and in both cases the problem was caused by the plugs. Also in both cases the plugs looked fine, but problem went straight away after putting in new plugs. if the problem becomes less severe after regapping the current (old) plugs to 0.9 - 0.8 mm it's 100% the plugs and they need to be replaced also check if the correct plug type was used (should be NGK pfr6b-11c or 11b) -Eric

Did you already do the screwdriver test to make sure the injector really isn't working ? since the CAS is also responsible for the injector firing order, might be worth to have a look at that one also.

if you have a conzult, see if switching the VTC solenoids make it sound different. You could also disconnect both solenoids manually (connectors are at the back/side of the engine) Also, how's the oil pressure when hot ? and I presume you have enough oil in the engine ?

that's the old GTR35 prototype...here's the latest and probably final dsign:

Yes, make sure scramble is set to P0 and/or C0 a lower gain normally results in a slightly lower boost.

where did you connect the controller's boost sensor hose to ? things to try: set gain and scramble both to 0. see if this stabilizes the boost. if so, start increasing the ratio until required boostlevel. after this slowly increase gain and maybe decrease ratio a few percent.

sounds indeed like the thermostat is on it's way out or you have a very large airlock in the system. replacement of the thermostat requires removal of the radiator/rad.hoses/fan+clutch and lower alloy waterpipe

tried cleaning (or maybe even swapping) PTU ? otherwise it's probably that "green stuff" on the injector connectors that is causing the problem. Injectors fail gradually over time in 95% of the cases...never seen one fail suddenly overnight. -Eric

can be a lot of things... start by checking fluid level in the PAS reservoir . other causes: a defective pressure sensor, solenoid, control unit or a pas-pump that's on it's way out. -Eric

>> Not sure of any point in running a small NA engine on 105 ron though. High compression Non turbo engines need to run high RON rated fuels as well.

common leaks at the "back" of the engine: -rear main crank seal (drops of oil on the area where the gearbox meets the engine) -L/R exhaust-side rocker covers (drops of oil on the turbo housing) -oil return line from either turbo (drops of oil on the return line and oil pan)