lymon

>> though does anybody know the best intake temps to have? ideally the intake temp on a turbocharged engine should be as cold as possible (colder air has more density = more power). On a TT running stock turbos it's not uncommon to have intake air temperatures of over 75 degrees celcius (after the intercooler !!) -Eric

http://excite.co.jp/world/english/web/?wb_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kakimotoracing.co.jp%2F01%2D01%2D01%5Fn1.html%23CZ32&wb_lp=JAEN&wb_dis=2

this dune racer was for sale in Holland a few months ago must be scary to drive :D

front of the engine on top of the alloy cooling pipe, yellow connector carefully unplug the connector and make sure both sensor and connector are clean (no green stuff) or wiggle the connector/wire to see if it makes the engine run different.

sounds like a problem with the main temp. sensor or the connector

try a compression test. Seen this before couple of times and it was due to low(er) compression on a particular cylinder

search...this has been discussed before and is not a major problem eg: http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=51998 Check the P/N (neutral gear) sensor/wiring. This is a common problem that happens when the car has been converted from auto to manual and they "forgot" to wire the neutral switch sensor from the gearbox to the ECU. This causes the timing to be 25BTDC instead of 15BTDC (at idle only)

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=939385

seems like ages ago, but first I met were Craig Stratton (one of the founders of 300zx.co.uk) and Warren Sheehan

is the aux. fan also on ? if so, then the ECU is in failsafe mode and can mean 3 things: either ECU is damaged or there is a problem with the chip or the main harness connector isn't seated correctly

giving the injector connectors a good cleaning will probably help also, since these are probably full with the "green stuff" .

a PCV valve stuck open or not sealing 100% can cause pressure in the crankcase, causing the oil to be blown out into the intake/plenum or through the dipstick and crankshaft seals

check the main temp sensor + connector (yellow connector on top of the waterpipes)

check sparkplug gap (should be ~ 0.8mm) and/or replace sparkplugs completely

lwb tank + acc. and the swb-tank + acc. and to answer your question: No, a swb tank won't fit a lwb or vice versa

No, SWB tank has different shape as a 2+2 one. NA/TT tanks are the same, as long as it has the same wheelbase.

Ok, you might want to have a look at (or replace) the PCV valves. PS: a TT engine takes closer to 4ltr oil.

Did you check/replace the PCV valves ? Do you have any oil in the intake pipes going to/from the intercoolers ? Did you also replace the valve stem seals when you did the rebuilt ? How much oil have you put in the engine ?

2 poster has more advantages (imho) post takes less space wheels are free easier to remove subframes or engine

normally this is caused by condensation in the crankcase, due to driving short distances or from the oil not getting up to full temp.

> Anyone know the part number for the temp sensor? I need a new one too 22630-51E02, 22630-51E00, 22630-51E10 or 22630-V5010 any of those will work. the same temp sensor is used on about every Nissan with petrol engine from '90 onward.

NA's got the electronics upgraded (ECU, engine sensors + connectors, new type injectors, etc) a little earlier at around late '93. The TT's had to wait until early '95

AT gearbox ECU is not (directly) interchangable between NA - TT Electronically these gearbox ECU's are the same, but also contain an EPROM which is specifically programmed for it's application. (different gearchange points, linepressure, etc.)

8 mm is normally used for fuel and water lines around the engine... but I wouldn't use silicon hoses for fuel.

suggestion: try to get hold of a Blitz DTT or DTTX turbo timer, since these have a builtin digital boost gauge, so you'd have both in one