lymon

>> Greddy kit just comes with Turbos not quite... custom downpipes, modified turbo compressor housings, modified wastegates actuators, custom intake pipes, oil lines and some other bits and bobs

those won't fit without some major modifications (even the T25 flange models) If you want TD04's best is to get the Greddy kit or stick with Garrett (G)T25 based models..similar power output and much easier to fit.

> paul andres His turbos are reconned and rubbish too (not to mention his overcharge on shipping)

driving in busy traffic (stop & go) in above 25C weather with the AC on will overheat almost any Zed...especially autos. airpockets in the system is also common. also quite common is blockage of waterchannels caused by leftovers of too much sealant/gasket...especially the small pipes from/to the turbos suffer from this. Do NOT trust the standard watertemp. gauge..it will still be halfway even when the engine is 100C and if it the gauge is showing the engine is hot, the engine is indeed SERIOUSLY hot (>130C) and you should stop immediately and let the engine cool to avoid warpage of the heads.

looks like it's not a real Garrett GT28RS...more like a chinese copy. real GT28RS has a 0.86 AR, 76 trim Turbine and a 0.60 AR, 62 Trim Compressor. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2860RS_739548_1.htm

aka project "death wish" :D

never heard of that happen to a Zed. what it could have been is a lifter locking up for some reason.

best NOT to use a screwdriver or similar between the oilpump and sprocket to forcefully try to slip it off...8 of 10 times you will damage (crack) the oilpump housing, but in your case I suppose that doesn't matter. :D normal method is heating it with a heater gun and lots of penetrating oil will help it slip right off. if that doesn't work, use a dremel and small chisel to cut the sprocket in half.

This is usually caused by bad connections or corroded connectors on either coils, ptu or injectors When it happens again, see if wiggling the wires/connectors makes it sound different or run better/worse.

not really noticable....slightly more topend.

means it's probably low on gas.

things to try: -full ecu reset (with conzult or disconnect battery for 40min) -disconnect the seperate connector from the TPS while the engine is running and see if there's any improvement. (This is the Closed Throttle switch connector) Idle rpm will probably rise though. -check temp sensor. (or it's connector)

>> its quite difficult to read the coolant level from the 'dipstick' thats in it. common mistake ! never use that to read the coolant level ..it's an overflow tank and has nothing to do with the actual coolant level. you should always check the level in the radiator itself (when cool). You should be able to see coolant, if not: top it up (the radiator..not the overflowtank) -Eric

best is to remove radiator and fan + clutch to allow for better access. and remove bottom pipe (2 nuts and 1 allen bolt.)

350Z frontbrakes are plug&play. only thing needed is the holes in the hub must be drilled out to a larger diameter, since the caliper bolts of the 350Z are larger (and you'll need at least 17" wheels to be able to fit these brakes)

You'd need at the very least: -5 bolt downpipes and testpipes -555cc (or larger) injectors + supporting chip if you want plug and play type turbos without the need of replacing a large section of the exhaust, you should look at JWT500's or JWT600's Older technology but very good and proven turbos.

got one of those too...excellent tool. they should give the inventor a nobelprice. :D

sounds like a hose popped off ...

:D

>> and fitting a Koyo would reduce performance yes, possibly, but it also depends on where you have fit the sender. or ...you might have a malfunctioning thermostat ? since the stock thermostat shouldn't be opening below 76C the stock ECU sender is directly where the hot coolant leaves the engine and my experience is that most Zeds run between 82-87 C (according to a conzult, which displays the temp as measured by the ECU). During the summer, with the aircon on, those temps get around 90-95 very easily (especially on auto's, which run slightly hotter) if you can hear the electric aux. fan running and you have the ac on, the temp is at least 95C. if the aux. fan is on and you haven't got the ac on, the engine is cooking (>105C) and you should let it cool down as soon as possible. for those that don't have/want aftermarket temp gauges: it's a good idea to make a small warning light on the dashboard directly connected to the power of the aux fan...so at least you are warmed when the engine starts overheating.

For the ecu the ideal enginetemp is between 81 and 90 C everything colder/warmer and the ecu will make adjustments to timing and/or fuel assuming the engine still needs to warm up (aka choke) or cool down.. meaning: less power. anything below 60C and the ecu will cut down the boost as well (safetyboost)

>> Hi Eric i used a spray electrical contact cleaner. best is not to use this stuff on the CAS itself but only on the plug (wiring harness side) >>not sure if its just wot or the boost to be honest, thing is by the time ive got wot the boost is already climbing fast, then the huge hesitation and the revs drop/climb/drop/climb around 4-5k. could be a loose connector somehwere (injector/coil/PTU/CAS) or bad plugs. >> I will be going round the bonnet cleaning all the contacts then, but what with. I personally use a dremel with (very) small grinding bit to clean the pins. works very well. (use some dialectric grease on the connectors when done) Most contact cleaners don't seem to help much and sometimes even make things worse.

you can remove the exhaust downpipe but having a look probably won't change much..the turbo is most likely seized and it needs to be replaced. Best is to change both turbos at the same time...they are usually like headlight bulbs: one fails and the other one fails shortly after you replaced the first one

does it start to stutter as soon as you give it WOT it or does it start to stutter as soon as it hits full boost (at WOT) ? Have you checked the TPS voltage ? fuel pressure ok ? > so touch of wet/dry to the contacts to clean them the best route? The CAS is very sensitive to water and other fluids, so do not use any fluid type contact cleaners on it.

Powersteering/HICAS (PAS) reservoir and it's filled with ATF