lymon

JUN offer 2 "menus" (stages) for both cylinder heads and cylinder block http://www.junauto.co.jp/processing/vg30/index.html Also Tomei and Escort offer complete build engines in several stages: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e040_vg30dett-fj20et.html http://www.escort-jp.com/products/z32.html (english version: http://www.escort-us.com/products/z32.html ) (esort are famous for their world fastest drag Zed: http://www.evotuners.com/shiobara.htm)

psfr = power steering fluid reservoir = little greenish or black pot on the left side of the engine you should top it up with ATF3

Dremel way is crap (IMHO)..it's usually hard to get injectors out of the rail (even if you have the fuelrail out completely) and when using the dremel way you have to destroy the injector for the most part to get it out. (too bad if the injector turned out to be fine) Plenum removal may be a little bit more work, but at least you can do it proper and get rid of the waterhoses under the plenum, replace the fuelrail o-rings, replace the small fuel hose connecting the 2 rails together, clean injector connectors and replace the sealant/gasket on the exhaust rocker covers.

fill it up and have someone press the clutch pedal repeatedly while you watch under the car. surely you should see it leaking somewhere... common culprits are the pressure hose to the slave cylinder or the slave cylinder itself.

the FICD can be switched with the conzult and is normally only used by/for the aircon. the AAC valve can also be operated in the main signals menu of the conzult When the engine is warmed up, the valve should be open for 15% (idealy) The regulator valve can not be switched with the conzult (or any other diagnostic program) and needs to be checked manually

>> The VVT springs in the ends of the intake cams can weaken and cause a rattle Weak VTC springs normally cause a rattle at low revs/low speed and the sound tends to become less as soon as the engine gets up to operating temp. if the sound is between 2k-3k rpm and it's a *raw* rattle it's usually a sign of worn/damaged main crank or rod bearings. Does the rattle become less when you give it less throttle (but keep the rpms between 2-3k) ?

In most cases, if you put the cats back as soon as the car starts to smoke you can still get quite a few miles out of the turbos (even more if you turn the boost down some) It doesn't mean the problem is fixed though, but (most of) the smoke will be gone and oil leakage will be far less, so you have some more time to save up for new tubs..

>> Anything else that would cause a high idle? malfunctioning/sticky (IACV-)FICD valve malfunctioning/sticky IACV regulator malfunctioning/sticky (IACV-)AAC valve also check the connectors of these valves (FICD + AAC connectors are hard to reach though) >> 75c and 85c in really hot weather is this with AC on or off ? with AC on, the coolant temp is normally higher then normal, depending on the ambient temp it can range from 85 to 95 on a really hot day.

>> why is this my probleme? oil pickup? or what? yes, there's very little room between the pickup and the bottom of the pan. Even a small dent can cause problems

A faulty sensor is only detected if it fails completely A sensor giving false readings is a bit harder to diagnose. best is to start with a cold engine and verify the coolant temp is the same (or very near) the fuel temp. Try to find out at what temperature the idle starts to rise and go into the "main signals" menu and manually alter the coolant temperature to see if has any influence on the idle. In general, the coolant temp on a fully warmed up Zed with a good functioning cooling system should stay at around 82Celcius

Hard to get, expensive and non cost effective modification, as it only increases volume with 0.2L and lowers compression. It would have been far more interesting if it increases volume with 0.5L (or more) and keeps at least the same or slightly higher cr-ratio as stock

> How can the throttle switch be checked? with a conzult But you can reset it manually: disconnect the big grey plug coming from the TPS while the engine is idling, wait 5 secs. and connect it again. Best is to reset it after you have verified the TPS voltage is approx. 0.44 volt at idle.

depends on what size wheels you have.

>> yes really dented JDM engine supplier let the engine rest and move them on the oilpan Sorry to say, but I'm 99.9% sure this is your problem You will need to drop the front crossmember and remove the oilpan and put another (non dented) pan on.

TPS voltage Closed Throttle switch (should be on at idle)

I'm interested !

In most cases this is caused by a leaking RMS (rear main crank seal). look for signs/drips of oil on the lowest point of the bellhousing, where the gearbox meets the engine. (there's a small hole there to allow leaking oil out) for replacement of RMS you'll need to drop the gearbox.

dented oilpan ?

usually when it's hot outside the air is less dense, so the turbos have to work harder to get the same amount of boost as to when the weather is colder. 16psi is already out of the efficiency range of stock turbos (with cold weather), so even more so when it's hot outside. So, the combination of hot weather + hot engine + hot intake temps (turbos running seriously out of efficiency) + lean AF (injectors running out of steam) is the perfect recipe for severe detonation and engine destruction. The detonation sensor may have saved you from a very expensive bill.

did you install a TT fuelpump + controller also ? otherwise, try the old (NA) ecu and see if it starts with that one. (for testing purposes only) it should start on a NA ecu, but run (very) rich. don't drive the car with the NA ECU though !

already tried an ecu diagnostic ?

>> ah i know, cheers. what's the one next to that? it's the temp.sensor for the dashboard gauge. >> hi guys any help with this starting problem please... turn ignition on (don't start the car yet) and listen if you can hear the aux. fan turn on. If so it could be 2 things: either main temp sensor is faulty (or bad connection/wiring) or the ECU is in failsafe mode, because of a more severe problem with the ECU itself. if the fan doesn't turn on, do a ECU self diagnostic and see if it gives a code that could help you look into the right directionL http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html

1.02 kg/cm is fine. (is exactly 1 bar or 14.5psi) >>the aftermarket gauge has stopped working now so got to see why this is and the dash gauge goes to jtst below the 7 probably the hose of the gauge has split or popped off.

stick with stock plugs. Has been discussed many times, all non stock plugs either stick out to little or to far into the combustion area of the cylinderhead . The NGK PFR6B-11C/PFR6B-11B plugs have been specifically designed for our engines. (right one is a stock plug)

how much coolant do you you have to add ? if it's just a little bit everytime then your coolant system is just full and the small amount of coolant you add is blown back out to the expansion/overflow tank small test: empty the overflow tank (or connect another small watertank to the overflow nipple on the radiator) and see if it contains coolant after you drive around for 30 minutes PS: when you check the radiator level, make sure the engine is cold.