lymon

without bumper:

>> tell us more about putting turbos on a NA if you will? conversion is pretty straight forward.. parts needed are, ENGINE: -TT manifolds + new gaskets -Turbos + wg actuators + all piping to/from turbos, Turbos from an automatic work best on the NA engine New tubs HIGHLY recommended...no recons or 2nd hand units. -short type downpipes as found on stock jspec and early ukspec TT's -TT injectors (370cc) work well, but if you're planning on running > 10psi, 555cc injectors highly recommended. -TT IACV unit, as the NA unit is not suitable for boost applications -TT oilfilter bracket + hoses -Recirc valves (or BOV's) COOLING: -TT radiator + hoses, koyo radiator recommended -TT oilcooler (larger European model recommended) -intercoolers + all piping/hoses GEARBOX: -TT clutch + flywheel if automatic: TT AT gearbox/flywheel/TC + wiring + ECU + extra oilcooler BODY: -TT front fascia (although slits can be cut in the NA bumper to allow flow to the intercoolers) ECU: custom chip to suit the high compression or an AEM recommended, but not absolutely required: -Electronic boostcontroller -TT oilpan -TT ECU + TT fuelpump + TT FPCU + wiring -good/accurate boost, watertemp. and oil temp gauge. -TT coolant pipes/lines behind plenum the waterlines behind the plenum are different on the NA engine and can be modified to be able to connect the turbo coolant channels, but easier is to use the TT piping If you want the keep the aircon, you will need a TT condensor + TT AC lines and have the ability to do a R12 refill (or do a R134a conversion at the same time)

it fits, but wouldn't recommend it NA alternators have a much lower amperage

>> But there was a reason Nissan used low compression on the TT! >> I would have thought running 10.5:1 compression ratio would severly increase the chances of Det and a holed piston? lower compression on turbocharged engines is old school technology ;) >> Hence why i a suggested Low pressure turbo conversion! I know :) The NA engine on 7 psi (safetyboost) runs just as strong as a stock TT on normal boost. There is a guy in the US that ran 16 psi on a turboed (high mileage) NA engine (with 370cc injectors) and the engine went bang, but not because of detonation. It was one of the wristpins that gave up (NA wristpins are thinner then TT pins) and as a result put a rod through the oilpan.

Sorry to say, but sounds like you will need a new engine. See if you can manually turn the engine (ratchet on the crankpulley). Also get a few sparkplugs out to check for signs of oil/water in the cylinder

>> What about supercharging? That would be a good idea. done that as well for one of our customers, but after doing it I wouldn't really recommend it unless you have won the lottery ;) you'll end up with a car that will be very scary to drive in the wet :D Supercharging works very well, but it is a VERY expensive option due to the cost of the charger itself and the custom parts that need to be made. You'll loose the aircon, you won't be able to adjust the boost as easy as you can on a turbocharged car and the life-expectancy of superchargers is a bit of a problem (even worse then turbos)

>> You could do a low pressure Conversion Not necessarily I've turbocharged 3 NA engines so far and all run absolutely fine on stock TT boost (9 psi). I've made a custom chip ( with mappings that suit the high CR), which took a lot of time to get right. One of the turbocharged NA engines is in my own car and apart from experimenting with all sorts of boost levels, I have been thrashing it on the motorway, nurburgerring, rolling roads and it has been used as a daily car for over 2.5 years, but the engine is still in one piece and 100% .....it's actually the stock TT turbos that have given up :D It's not so much the high 10.5:1 CR that's causing the limit on the boost...it's the fact that the 370cc TT injectors are completely out of juice at anyting over 11 psi. As the turbos are now toast on my own car I will be putting JWT530BB tubs and 650cc injectors on it some time soon and see how long it will last

DTA has several sets in stock :D

You shouldn't need to change the speedo with a AT-MT conversion More likely there's something wrong with the speedsensor in the gearbox or wiring to/from the sensor

be careful with overtensioning the aux. belt(s) it can cause excessive wear of the main crank bearings

Get a TT alternator...those deliver a higher amperage.

I have 5-6 sets front TT calipers for sale, alloy and iron ones pm me for more details.

then the spare sensor you got is probably from an automatic, which is different from a manual.

the cooler in the radiator is too small. Get a proper oil cooler.

the sensor is the same, but the pinion is different. you can swap the pinion though.

>> on my avcr sometimes it only goes to 0.89 then maybe it 1.03 depends on gear I presume you have the selflearn function on ? if so, disable it...or only enable it in the high gears. it will give you more stable boost on a AVCR

see http://forum.ztechz.net for more info on registers and ecu "hacking"

blocks are NOT the same vg30de(tt) short block: vg30e(t) short block: for a start the cylinder head bolts are not symetrical on the VG30E(T). Most water galleries are different shaped or at a different position. oil feeds are at different position(s) you can use a VG30DE(TT) crank in a VG30E(T) though. and I've heard of using VG30DETT pistons in a VG30ET...

It's not plug&play..you need to piggyback/solder it into the ECU wiring harness. Nice tool though.

The main fan activation temp parameters is at address 0x7442 and 0x7443 (both registers have a value of 0x8C) Lowering the value of these registers will lower the fan activation temperature. The activation temp with AC on, is the decimal value of these register minus 50 or minus 35 with AC off. example:changing both registers to 0x87 will lower the fan activation with 5 degrees Celcius: fan will be activated at 85 Celcius (with AC on) or 100 Celcius with AC off.

Front rotors: 40206-CD005

stock mounts will be fine for most applications and also tuned cars. I've removed several engines with over 100000ml and the stock mounts were still fine. The reason most stock mounts will break in half is when the gearbox is removed without loosening the nuts that fix the mounts to the subframe. This will release a lot of tension on the mounts as the engine tilts backwards (which happens when the gearbox is removed from the car) But whatever mounts you go for, don't forget to replace the 3rd engine mount as well (aka gearbox mount)

I have solid mounts (with a slice of rubber on the subframeside) on one of my Zeds and these keep the engine completely steady. (0% engine movement) You can hear the engine very clearly in the car though, which might not be to everyone's taste. > i have heard certain mounts Can put dents in your Bonnet probably heavily worn ones, as these will allow the engine to move back and forth very much. if you decide to use noltec's, make sure you use heat shields as these engine mounts won't be able to withstand the engine heat (they'll become hard and britle and fail even before stock mounts do). numerous reports of these mounts failing on Zeds...all because of heat issues. 1 example: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1853407