lymon

you will need it to control the blower (speed) and vent direction.

similar tests were also done on intercoolers for the Zed. no ebay ones (yet) though, but the test is still ongoing. He's still trying to collect as many different intercoolers for the Zed as possible http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1006299 http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1010092 http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1012080

another one ?...or maybe not if your looking for a completely finished showcar: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-300ZX-1990-Top-10-Show-Car_W0QQitemZ320059749211QQihZ011QQcategoryZ135917QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the internals of the manual transmissions are all the same between all Z32 models and also shared with the Skyline R32 GTR. Obviously the housing is different..for the NA the only difference is the bellhousing, which is slightly thicker in some areas when compared to the TT gearbox, but internally it's exactly the same. The Z32 manual transmissions are available in 4 versions/revisions. REV.1 (32220-21P00) was used on the very early Zeds (from '89 to '91) REV.2 (32220-30P10) was used from '91 to '94 REV.3 (32220-30P20) was used from '94 to '97 REV.4 (32220-30P60) was used on the '98 and later models. Some of the internals were upgraded during these revisions The european boxes had extra cooling and an internal oilpump

AFAIK it's not available seperately from Nissan as it's part of the main EFI harness. ...so there's no partnumber for the AFM plug

bought mine directly from H&R in Germany as well. Seems they have increased their price a little :wack: They probably only make it on special order nowadays, as the springs for the 300 are no longer in their catalogue

I bought my set for around 175 EUR ...although this was 5 years ago.

those are from the AIV system and are used to help heat up the cats

they provide vacuum for EGR + AIV valve operation and the carbon canister.

also known as MBC (manual boost controller)....was standard in the Renault 5 Turbos Is another cheap alternative to an EBC and more acurate then boostjets, but has the same problem as boostjets: boost spikes >> I think i'm getting spikes as most of the time it boosts to 14psi but some times it'll hit 16 if the spikes occur in cold weather then it's ok. (you might want to get slightly larger jets though) if it's completely random, then you have a boostleak and the jets are probably too small. >> Do zeds suffer from "wastegate creep"? yes, but rare on standard turbos. It sometimes happens on cars that have a fully open and free flow exhaust system.

there's a yellow one in Germany on Mobile.de for 3000 EUR. You might be able to get it cheaper though... http://mobile.de/SIDMfK1T0-dD6Zjoi-cocHzvg-t-vaNexlCsAsCsK%F3P%F3R~BmSB11LsearchPublicJ1165479473A1LsearchPublicD1100CCarX-t-vctpLtt~BmPA1A1B20B17%81Q-t-vCaMiMkQuSeUnVb_X_Y_x_yrdsO~BSRA6D1100A5E18700AGCPKWA0HinPublicA0A0A0A0D1990A0/cgi-bin/da.pl?bereich=pkw&sr_qual=G&top=1&id=11111111235671829&

>> make sure you don't damage the plastic cap on the nozzle. injector will work absolutely fine without the plastic cap...found out the hard way ;) ...as long as you don't damage the small (and brittle) injector needle/nozzle

>> They are physically identical, its just the Compressor wheel is slightly smaller on the Autos. (slightly less power but slightly less lag) both turbine and compressor wheels of MT and AT tubs are exactly the same actually. The only difference between MT and AT turbos is the turbine housing, which has a slightly less AR value on the AT tubs (basically the inner volume of the housing is slightly smaller). to make MT turbos out of AT turbos (and vice versa) you'd only have to swap around the turbine housings

>> Do manual turbos fit an auto turbo car? Yes, fits straight on. >> i think if you put manual tubs on an auto you will have lag as there bigger and take longer to spool up The extra lag is very small and barely noticable. -Eric

any vibrations or sounds from the gearbox if you rev the engine in neutral, with the clutch engaged ? >>Also when driving sometimes the clutch is lighter than other times, can be stiff for one press, then light again. If you put your foot on it and take up the slack you feel your foot drop a bit as the hydrolics kick in a second or so after you take up the slack? sounds like a problem with the master cylinder or air in the clutch hydraulics and has most likely nothing to do with the crank bushing

for the record, there are NO uprated oil pumps available for the VG30DETT Toga claim they have one, but several people have dismantled this socalled uprated Toga pump and all came to the conclusion there's nothing upgraded/special about it and it appeared to be a stock TT pump. Only real upgrade is a drysump system.

You can not get to the nuts from the inside, so no use to rip out the interior. Only solution is to drill the bolt out or use a grinder.

I would replace that oil pickup before putting the oilpan back on if I were you.. it looks pretty damaged would check the oilpan also, I wouldn't be surprised if it was dented also. A dented oilpan or damaged oilpickup can kill your freshly rebuild engine in no time, due to oil starvation

if you have aftermarket cam pulleys, there's a big chance you have aftermarket camshafts as well. As most aftermarket cams for the Zed don't support the Nissan VTC system, there's no use to leave the solenoids connected.

it should be the similar to the voltage at the main ECCS ECU and ranging from 0.4 to 4.0 V http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=at&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=84&design=default&total=194 it could be an electronic problem with the AT-ecu.

>> id like to see a skyline lump in a zed http://www.jdmfresh.com/gallery/RBZ32/index.html

> its un real what those engines can take and ours carnt, same with skylines. Skyline GTR engines (RB26DETT) are overrated (IMHO) and have similar problems as our engines when increasing power. (spun bearings, broken ringlands, oil starvation)

>> I get a really strong smell when flooring the throttle if it's sort of similar to the smell of "welding", then it's coming from your catalysts These get extremely hot when flooring it.

> cant find the drain bolt on the engine. there are 2 on each side of the engine. very hard to reach with the engine in the car. You'll need to remove both alternator and aircon compressor to be able to access the drain bolts

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