lymon

wiggle or clean the connectors of the PTU (when standing in front of the engine, on the left side, square flat little box with 2 large connectors) and the connector of the CAS (when standing in front of the engine, on the right side, small round metal object with 1 connector)

no, won't have any consequences

>> Post '93 also dropped the AIV IIRC so the drive circuitry for that would most likely be missing also.... also for this: the code is there, even for models that no longer have the AIV solenoids, so I presume the circuitry on the ECU is there also.

> Does that same circuitry exist in an NA ECU ? Not sure, I still need/want to try this sometime, but I have a strong feeling it will have the circuitry. This because the NA code contains the routine to control WG solenoids...it's just not used. I compared the hardware of quite a few Z32 ECU's and it looks like there are basically 2 different models. For the early models, the AT ECU has a few extra (SMD) parts, mainly resistors, compared to the MT ECU. All later 8-bit models (from around '93 onwards) appear exactly the same and look exactly the same as the early AT ECU models (with the extra resistors). Also for the later MT models, the code does contain routines to control the ATCU, but it's not used (just like the WG code in the NA ECU). So I wouldn't be surprised that all post '93 ECU's (and pre '93 AT ECU's) are interchangable between NA/TT/MT/AT, as long as you put in the correct chip for the car. All this would make sense, because it's no use to produce several different ECU's, when you can control and/or enable extra features within the code.

by the way, it's not uncommon for the circuitry inside the ECU, controlling the WG/Boost solenoids, to blow up. But I noticed you already tried another ECU. you could put a multimeter on pin 45 & pin 25 of the ECU and see if you get a signal there (while driving)

They are shown in the conzult software as "W/G CONT S/V"

if it's a short buzz usually shortly after you engage gear, it's not the fuelpump, but the ABS pump priming. As this pump is inside the car, you can hear it more clearly.

for the Zed, Castrol RS is still one of my favourites :D still available (old stock) at some shops or ebay if you look for it. I also have good experience with MPM, Silkolene and Motul 10W50 oils

Edge is not the same as RS. A few people from the German Z forum have done a back to back comparison between edge and RS and edge ran approx. 10C hotter under mild to high load. They contacted Castrol about this and Castrol seems to be aware of this and apparently it has to do with Rs containing esters, while edge is not.

don't think that'll work very well...and looks like it hasn't been tested either (test car looks like it's empty shell) it probably melts/overheats any plastic/rubber/electronic part that is somewhat close to those manifolds and turbos (like timingbelt, timingbelt covers, wiring, crankangle sensor, tps, etc) I'd rather stick to tested products that work, like pentroof or MSP manifolds...

It wouldn't hurt to clean the tank and replace the pump with a (good) second hand TT pump. (even only for piece of mind) the "uprated" ebay ones generally flow less then a stock TT pump and make more noise.

only if it's the full kit for the 300ZX. and the price is reasonable..otherwise it's far too much work to make these fit and there are much better (ballbearing) turbos around nowadays they work on a stock engine, but all depends on how much power you want to make. you'll need at least larger injectors, intercoolers and preferably an engine "fresh-up" (new or aftermarket pistons + bearings) for added safety.

> Why is that out of interest? How did you change the compression ratio or didn't you? long story, but in short this has to do with the effective compression. a 10.5:1 CR engine (VG30DE) with 12 psi boost has an effective compression of 19.1:1 a 8.5:1 CR engine (VG30DETT) will only reach that kind of figures when it runs slightly over 18psi of boost ... (all in ideal circumstances) the lower the static compression of an engine, the more boost you have to add to get into that same range. basically, a higher ECR equals more power, but it also generates more heat which leads to detonation...that's why you can't boost too high on high CR engines. eg. 15 psi on a 10.5:1 CR engine has an Effective CR of 21:1 !! (this is like running 24 psi on a 8:1 CR engine) Also added heat of the turbo(s) will increase the risk of detonation, so the choise of turbocharger is very important and different on high CR engines then it is on lower compression engines, since you run lower boost levels and the the turbos need to be very efficient up to these lower boostlevels to get the most out of it. the stock TT turbos have their best efficiency up to around 12 psi, then it quickly loose effeiciency and start to generate more and more heat..but in a way they are actually quite ideal for turbo charging the VG30DE engine. ...Although you'll need some safety nets, like enough fuel, good cooling and good quality intercoolers, etc.

> might be a stupid question, but can the 300zx TT run on Ethanol E85? yes, but it will kill the injectors after a while. Apparently this has something to do with a chemical reaction that causes the fuel to corrode/react with the injectors, since the injectors on a 300ZX are always powered by 12V (even when the car is not running) It's good fuel though...higher octane then regulare fuel > not without MUCH bigger injectors and a full re-map that's only needed with full ethanol blends. ethanol has a 9:1 stoich, while regular fuel has a 14.7:1

> Lymon doesn't run the engine anymore, the big ends went Was another engine, the one in my Turboed NA still runs absolutely fine... Is like that for 3 or 4 years now. I run 12 psi most of the time...which is the absolute max. (90%-95% dutycycle on stock TT injectors). I have 440 cc topfeed skyline injectors now, using a custom(ized) fuelrail and have run 1 bar a few times. only problem is the turbos I used (from the TT donorcar) are now basically shot, so need to pull the engine to replace them with ballbearing tubs, but don't have much time for my own cars at the moment. The NA engine definately makes more power per psi then a TT engine. 12 psi on the VG30DE is like 16psi on a VG30DETT If you're thinking about doing this, give the engien a good inspection first. My NA engine was in really good shape and had low mileage, before I turboed it. A few guys in the US tried it on old worn NA engines (and tried to run high boost levels as well) and it blew . But in all cases I know off, it were the bearings or wristpin(s) that failed..not the NA pistons

We will be there, all the way from Holland, (sofar) with 4 cars from the dutch Z32-club

try again

get a proper (short) pulley puller to get the main crank pulley of. I personally use one like this : used it on lots of pulleys without any problem.. to get the crank sprocket of, you make your own tool...eg like this one:

since you have an AEM, those values from the service manual don't apply anymore, since they are meant for cars with a stock ECU AEM has a programmable idle control and it could be the person that has tuned your ECU has set the idle to be at 1000 rpm. First check all the settings of the AEM, before you start disconnecting and changing things, because you could make things worse if you do.

you could use pin 109 of the ECU (white wire). http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/tc/tc02.jpg It holds 12V when cranking and holds power for about 5 seconds after you turn the ignition off. ideal for (boost/traction/fuel)controllers don't use it to feed things that need a lot of power.

Also check your battery voltage (while the engine is running)..it should be near 14 Volt. if voltage is 12V or lower : check alternator (presumably it's dead) if battery voltage igets below 10V, the engine will start to misfire or cylinders will start to drop and usually all sorts of warning lights will start to come on (ABS, HICAS, etc)

yes

easiest is to check the labels on the seat belts..it shows the year of manufacture

>> Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. Have you checked it's not just the aircon condensation outlet dripping water on the downpipe? (small rubber pipe coming out of the firewall, straight above the RH downpipe, or passenger side on a RHD car)

Chris, sounds like you have a Skyline HICAS eliminator as these are smaller and less wide. To solve your problem, you could get the Essential Z32 HICAS lock out bar (DTA Motorsport) + (new) Hicas rods and it should all be fine again. In this case you'll still be able to have some adjustment from the stock rods. BTW. there's no difference between LWB and SWB bars...they share the exact same subframe. -Eric