lymon

>> Eric, I am interested to ask why you are advising taking the fuel injectors above 80% duty cycle as all the injector manufacturers don't recommend it, as it makes dosing unreliable? you don't have to increase dutycycle...increasing fuelpressure will make an injector flow more. eg. a 370cc injector at 80% IDC and a fuelpressure of 3 bar will be flowing approx. 295cc a 370cc injector at 80% IDC and a fuelpressure of 4 bar will be flowing approx. 345cc > how do i adjust the fuel pressure then? with an aftermarket fuelpressure regulator...and I don't mean the cheapo Ebay crap, but eg. a proper Nismo FPR also increasing fuelpressure means you need a remap ...it's basically the same as installing larger injectors. Downside of the fuelpressure increase method is that it's harder to determine the exact injector flow, so you'd need to have it mapped with a wideband O2 sensor or when you have a flowbench test of your injectors at the increased fuelpressure you are running, it can be calculated

>> Must admit I think they are worth it as they are cheap increasing fuelpressure to 4.2bar will increase the flow of the stock injectors to approx. 440cc...even cheaper solution ;) Although I don't recommend increasing the fuelpressure to over 4 bar also the subaru injectors sell in sets of 4, so it's hard to get a set of 6, unless you buy 3 sets and sell the remaining 6 injectors to another 300 owner :D

depends on (rear)wheel tire size TT with stock 16" wheels/tires : ~28 mph see http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html or: http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/files/Gearsp_NS.xls

before using an FMIC, make sure your cooling system is in perfect condition and you have a good aftermarket watertemp. gauge or you WILL run into (overheating) problems .

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?msg_id=1927745&forum=general

the oil tree is already there to allow more space for the RH turbo.. you don't have enough room to fit an adapter as it will hit the turbo or it will be too thin so you won't be able to fit any decent hoses to it to route the oil to the remote filter. You could try the tree of a Non Turbo as it is smaller and doesn't have the connections for the oil cooler on a side note, the VG30DET (the single turbo version of the VG30DETT engine) has the filter bolted straight to the area where the tree resides :

>> But why not 95 octance rather than 98? >> I do not care if I get 2 or 3 more hp on 98... it has nothing to do with mpg. a higher octane rating means you can run more advanced ignition = more power

The VG30DETT with a stock oilpan suffers from oil pressure loss during hard cornering....maybe this is what killed your bearings. If you want to use a 300ZX for drifting or track racing you will need a dry sump system or make serious modifications to the oilpan (extra baffle plates, trap doors, larger content). There are also some positive reports about accusump systems (basically an external oil container under pressure helping oilpressure when needed) read this article: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1878857

the difference is minimal (...mostly in the intercooler area.) the TT undertrays can be used on the NA and vice versa with some minor modifications.

I had an encounter with LPI Zed in our workshop a few weeks ago...it actually drove very good. >> Only going of experience... Drove an LPG it was slower on petrol and used more fuel.... All im saying it offsets the "amazing benefit" Which to be fair isnt as great as people say it is, doesnt always do the engine alot of good an 2k is a hell of alot of petrol! if you convert a car to drive on LPI only and have it remapped for this setup it will be faster then the same car on petrol.

Happy birthday Mark !

>> oh I didn't think the ecu measured boost. only on the newer 16bit model ECU's

it's used by the ECU

>> it goes inside the airflow meter you will have to remove the mesh first then.. also I can't see how that's supposed to work...that stuff will need to go through the turbos (where you DON'T want it), intercoolers and over 2 meter of pipes, until it finally gets into the manifold.

ECU needs to be reprogrammed.

manuals have 2 plates: one large plate that covers the complete back of the engine/bellhousing and a smaller one that covers the lower half of the engine/bellhousing.

FYI, I spoke to someone from racelogic this weekend and he told me they will stop producing their traction control units, because their new driftbox unit is basically consuming all their production time. So...if you don't have a RLTC yet, get one quick ! (especially with the winter coming soon) -Eric

There was a older topgear review on the 300 but it's no longer available on youtube. It also appeared a few times on the show (the scientist burnout contest, the 350Z versus older model) here's a long list of nice Z32 vids: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/195982

Speaking of sexy mechanics and build for a purpose, here's another nice one...no drift car though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-SCCA-GT2-Race-Car-Imsa-Datsun_W0QQitemZ200164265148QQihZ010QQcategoryZ98064QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

>> thats got to be in kph! never in mph it's mph ! (it's a US-spec car... 160 mph clock) and if you think a twin GT3071 setup is not enough, you can always go for these :D http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290172782039

>> My apprentice has fitted a gt3071 to his pulsar.the inlet snail is huge with a 100mm inlet.very laggy turbo even on a 4 cylinder. the GT3071 is one of the most efficient turbos available at this moment. Here's a Zed with a twin GT3071 setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w8AAO6x2fs car struggles to get the power down, but lag seems ok....above 4000 rpm that is... ;)

I'd suggest to get the crank pulley and lower cover off also. Getting the timing belt back on and timed correctly with the cover still in place is a nightmare. As shown in the picture posted by Mantav8, all sprockets have aligning marks on them, as has the timing belt , which all need to line up exactly The marks on the back plates are less important and are more for indication, where the sprocket marks need to be set at, before you put the belt on. If the marks on the t.belt have faded, you can count the teeth on the belt to set it correctly (see service manual), but to be honest I would get a new belt in that case.

check/clean the CAS connector and if that doesn't help, try lowering the boost to see if the problem's still there. if the problem is far less or gone, you may have a boost leak somewhere

DOT5.1 will make the rubber seals inside the master and slave cylinder go soft and swollen very quickly. best is to flush the system and get rebuild kits for both..these are very cheap.

kits are available in the US http://rbz32.com/ http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=2007599 http://z32power.com/691094428141735/cwp/browse.asp?a=3&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&c=52918&691094428141735Nav=|69|&NodeID=70 http://www.nebphoto.com/picsnick/album/index_html.html