lymon

it's not the sensor that's rubbish..it's the the stock gauge you should be able to use the stock gauge sensor (the right/smaller one, with black plug on top) for some aftermarket gauges. Just try it, it won't do any harm. If it doesn't work with the gauge you're using then there are some other possibilities. I normally just drill an extra hole in top pipe to fit the extra sensor (be careful you don't make the hole too large, as there's no way back) and use some sealant to be sure it won't leak. Otherwise use an adapter, like the one you already have. They actually do fit in the top rubber hose...it's just a bit fiddly.

If you have removed the main cats, put them back. This will reduce the smoke significantly. if you still have the cats installed I don't think there's not much else you can do other then to replace the turbos.

By the description it sounds like your previous box was probably upgraded or had a fault causing the line pressure to be too high your current box: keep checking the ATF level for a while as this is usually the most common fault. Does the AT light on the dash blink when the ignition is turned on ? (this indicates a fault) if the AT light doesn't come on at all, it might indicate a problem with the power to the ECU Or have it checked with a conzult It also may be neccessary to check the line pressure as it may be too low, causing sluggish behaviour

stuck Blower maybe (from the ac/heater) ?

>> Any spares I should carry though? -a spare PTU can be handy (if you still have the old model PTU in the car) -some extra coolant and oil (but in case of emergency you can purchase this at most gas stations as well)

>> whoa is the stock rad better than a koyo?? there are several koyo radiator models. the koyo racing radiators (the thick alloy ones) are much better then stock >> so what are your thoughts guys?? heard of very good results of people using elec. pumps on a Zed. You do need an electronic pump controller with it though, as the flow needs to be controlled according to the temperature. (you don't want to have it at full blow all the time). You will need to remove the thermostat and original pump and cap of the hole. One of the advantages is you can leave the pump and elec. fan running for a short while after the engine has been switched of....this works a lot better then any turbotimer (unless you're using turbos that are not watercooled) Disadvantage is that these pumps are very sensitive to contamination of the coolant (like rust particles or pieces of leftover silicone gasket), which can decrease life expectancy of the pump or in worst case kill it.

You can and the car will run, but only as a temporary solution.(imo) 1. 740 cc injectors have a different injection time (time to open/close), to get this right and have the AFR levels within limits again: remap. 2. With a split intake system, the rhd bank will draw more air, because of the IACV and other (idle) regulation valves You can use a secondary balance tube/hose between the left and right intake, but to make this work: remap. 3. if he's using 740cc, he probably also has aftermarket turbos..otherwise these injectors are super overkill. Larger turbos means more (or different) load on the engine, this engine load data is in chip...to change and optimise it: remap So, he should be better of by a custom remap of the chip.

It's in the manual that comes with the conzult software...section 7

>They were looking for advice on doing this to there N/A with the right setup (as in chip, quality intercoolers and standard 370cc TT injectors) you can run 0.8 bar on the NA engine all day long. Have done this to my own NA Zed about 5 years ago and the car still runs very strong.

>> you can run a TT engine with higher than standard or n/a compression ratio?? yes you can. It all depends on personal preference. A high compression TT will have a lot more low rpm torque then a low(er) compression engine...although the high compression will limit the max amount of boost you can run. My personal favourite is a high compression TT with smallish turbos (eg. GT25's), this is really nice to drive and has a very nice, direct and smooth power delivery...

I might be totally wrong , but looking at the pictures, those look like T28's in modified stock turbo housings. Positive side of this is they are plug and play, no need for different downpipes and modifications to make these turbos fit, downside is that the stock turbo housings are not a very good choise to stuff a larger then T25-sized turbo in. Although, with the right supporting engine modifications (at least larger injectors) they might (just) be able to get the power figure you are aiming for.

T28's come in as many flavours as crisps so would need more details to tell you if they'd suit the engine or not.

http://www.z32photoguide.com/

what size injectors are you running ? do you still have cats ? any other upgrades ? eg. if you're running 550cc (or larger) and no cats it's extremely hard and almost impossible to pass any european CO test and in most cases you will have to (temporarily) install cats to pass the test

If you want a good T25/T28 hybrid, get 2x Garrett GT2560R (aka GT28R), which is a ballbearing T25/T28 hybrid factory made by Garrett using GT-technology wheels. You can get these fairly cheap and are *semi* bolt on to a Zed, meaning it takes some work to make them fit, but it's very possible

section EM, page 37 (4th picture) http://300zx-twinturbo.com/manual/em/037.gif

highest mileage I have ever seen on a TT was 218k (350000km) It was still running ok, but you could hear it was completely worn and in desperate need of a rebuild and a fresh set of turbos

or buy a (cheap) low mileage NA engine...it has the same crankshaft/rods/shortblock. Being a NA it took less abuse in it's life, so it's usually in very good shape and very useful as a donor for a rebuilt

how much pressure do you use to check for (boost) leaks ? how did you reroute the PCVs ? almost sounds like you've rerouted it a bit wrong or in such a way that pressure from the intake is able to flow to pressurize the crankcase as well. if that's the case, then I hope you haven't blown any seals out yet.

it runs rough in what way ? misfire ? stumble ? it just "sounds" rough ? or can you actually feel it ? -does it still run rough if you increase the base idle rpm a little bit (+100 rpm) -did you check/clean the connector of the AAC ? -is the timing 15 BTDC on idle (check this using a timinglight) -disconnect both O2-sensors (one at the time) and see if it improves anything. also it may help to follow the procedure as described in the SM: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=67&design=default&total=190 http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=68&design=default&total=190

is a real PITA you'll need to get the complete assy out, which is held by special anti theft screws. Use a dremel to make a groove in these screws, so you can get them out with a regular screwdriver and remove the ignition assy.

>> the problem with short shifters are most of the kits have nylon bushes just re-use the (brown) stock bushes...the nylon bushes that come with most of the sh.shifter kits are near worthless. also make sure you fill the joint of the shifter with grease, which prevents the shifter from rattling/clunking too much.

I always do it from above (sort of..between the engine and ac pump), using a small ratchet spanner size 14. if it's really stuck, you can use a bar as a lever between the engine and spanner and put some extra force on the spanner

boost can be limited by the ECU by a fuelcut, be it very rough. it feels a bit like running around with the MAF disconnected. having the "check engine" light blink as soon as knock or safetyboost is detected is also possible, although it needs some reprogramming of the code.

>> how much does this saw system cost? where is it avail to buy? http://www.ess-racing.com/ good system, although not as good as a full MT conversion, but closest you can get with the automatic transmission :)