lymon

They'll fit just fine :)

>> If not then why did Nissan feel they had to be there? to meet international emmision regulations ...but who cares about that nowadays on 10+ year old cars ;)

The DOOLZ setup has less problems then a completely seperate setup like the JWT dual pop setup. But the DOOLZ solution is not always possible (eg. with some fmic's) If you want/need to use the "seperate" setup, it's best to use 2 AFM's and an AFC. otherwise it's best to choose a DOOLZ kind setup....although a disadvantage of this solution is that the filters will be at a low position and they are likely to get wet easily.

There are 2 models of the GT25R. You'll need the one with the 54.3mm, 60 trim, .80 ar compressor housing. The turbos need to be "clocked" to be able to fit these. Because of this you'll and HKS upgraded adjustable wastegate actuators. The turbine will bolt straight onto the stock Z32 manifolds. Only extra things needed are 5 bolt type downpipes (like the ones for the HKS2530 or JWT530BB's) Since the compressorhousing has a different inlet, you'll need some 60mm silicone tubing and all. piping to make it fit/connect to the stock Z32 turbo-inlet piping. (see picture)

AFC is only needed if you want to use 2 AFM's. It's recommended to use the 2nd AFM + AFC combination though, otherwise you will have a very unstable idle, the car will run VERY rich at cold starts and it will run jerky at low throttle situations (cruising). If you insist on using 1 AFM it's best to use the socalled "low driveability upgrade". See : http://www.ttzd.com/tech/twinpoptech.html

It can be done, but you'll need to remove almost everything on the sides of the engine/plenum and you'll also need a lot of patience, small hands and some more patience ;)

I had the same problem once The problem turned out to be the brandnew lower O-ring of the "stuck" injector was completely messed up (probably happened when installing the injectors into the rail). So it was actually not the injector itself that was leaking, but fuel was leaking through the O-ring. Also...be VERY careful not to hydrolock the engine...cylinders flooded with fuel/water can do severe damage to the engine !!

my goal is 1.1-1.2 bar, since this about where the efficiency of these turbos end. I'll be using water injection, 99 RON fuel and maybe a little overfueling at high boost to improve cooling and prevent detting even more. And...if it doesn't work out, I'll try them on a regular TT engine :D

I'm currently testing the GT25R's out on one of my Zeds, although the engine I'm testing these on is a high compression engine (modified VG30DET engine, running10:1 CR), so I'm not sure how they are on a regular TT engine. Sofar so good, but I have only driven 500km and the engine hasn't been run in yet. Spoolup seems very decent. -Eric

http://www.wolfems.com.au/products/enginemanagement/wolf3d You might want to ask this question on the aussie Z forum. AFAIK a few people there are using the Wolf3D ECU's.

Det. sensor connector and VTC connector swapped by accident ? (is quite a common mistake after the wiringloom has been replaced, since the connectors are the same) -Eric

>> i think but not 100% that the grades required would be >> 4 3 3 2 correct >> 1 0 1 1 1 11 (11 must mean a 2 please can you confirm) no, you must have misread...only conrod grade nr. can be a value between 0 and 2 I suppose you have seen this diagram ?

not sure why you need this (since the DSBC also shows boost accurately), but 1bar=1.02kg/cm2=102kpa=14.5PSI -Eric

2 main problems: it's a V6 (so you need 2 of almost everything) and lack of space

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=922136

You'll need "custom" downpipes, since the bolt pattern is different then Garrett 5 bolt turbos. Greg Dupree has downpipes for the 1420's (http://www.specialtyz.com/downpipes.htm)

for a NA (or if you have a NA diff) it's ~23 mph@1000rpm in 5th gear

A/R rating says nothing about the turbo model. It's just describing the geometric property of the turbo. You can have a T22 with .48A/R or a T28 with a .48A/R For example, this is the compressor (intake) housing of a stock Z32 turbo: and here next to the compressor housing of a Skyline turbo -Eric

Is the aux. fan on all the time also ? In this case the ECU is in failsafe mode and the problem is either ECU itself or main wiring harness/connector

Good thing you didn't have a go at removal then. Aircon gas is nasty stuff when inhaled !!! there are several ways to install the Apexi's. Best is to get the oilcooler out of the way first, fit the apexis and wiggle the cooler back into place again. (make sure the oilhoses don't rub against something sharp though !) You probably have to bend the fitment brackets on the apexis as well. (I usually just cut them off completely and use tiewraps or clamps to hold the BOV's into place)

You shouldn't have to remove the CC to plumb in the Apexi's... >> * EDIT * Has anyone done this without removing the front bumper? I have installed 3 sets without removing the bumper...

some more pictures of that "thing" http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2005_detroit/nissan/azeal/pages/1.htm -Eric

A common thing that is often overlooked is the big blue connector that is plugged into the ECU. Especially if it throws all sorts of errorcodes, it's often a case of a loose (or too tight) ECU connector See if "wiggling" the wiring harness that goes into the connector/ecu makes the engine run different. -Eric

that "2nd" one is the original one on my site: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi The one on 300zx.co.uk was made by me in the days that Craig was still running the site and is basically a copy of the one on my site. Anyway, I have also recieved emails from a few people that bought a link to the online manual from ebay and asked me to do something about it. But I'm afraid there's not much you can do, apart from reporting the individuals that sell these links to the ebay staff. -Eric