Dave C

Tip for you I run undersized stretched tyres on the front (less surface contact) eg a 225 on a 245 rim with 40psi. The back I use lightweight rims with only 12psi. Less wheel spin any better start. Dont lower the backs too much as it will affect your terminal speed. Also another important piece of the puzzle is to fit solid rear subframe bushes/collars, this will help stop the judder affect when accelerating hard.

again it was 13.0 dead, that is a huge difference than 14. My N/A ran 14.5 against it when it ran 13.0. Although my N/A led the first 1/8, the TT shot passed it like it was standing still. At 100mph+ 1 sec is a huge gap.

My N/A Fully weighted ran 14.6. Stripping it out as you said may of given me .2 advantage but thats all. The TT I ran 13.0 was very heavy with 19/285 wheels. I did expect high twelves though. Did you beat Petes times by the way?

A fully weighted Z would have to be around 800-900hp to have a chance a hitting sub 10. The above cars are lightweight super cars so can do it with a lot less. Once you get to Bobs times, it may take double the power even to knock of a second. The law of diminishing returns. I have seen GTRs with 1.5khp only 9s. Incidentally what power is Bob running because I ran a 501hp (420RWHP) fully weighted TT up there and best time was 13.0 dead.

WOW I am surprised.. So without getting into a silly debate, are there more N/A owners than TT owners on here? The only Tubs in my house these days are full of ice cream:tt2:

Keep the crate warm for me..lol

gET THE KETTLE ON..LOL

Would never go back to Tubs. Once you get the N/A sweet, the drive and sound is much more rewarding.

Alright boys, hows it going. Been a long time Pete did you ever smash that 14secs?

Been away for a while, just seeing how many N/A owners still exist. There used to be around 10-20. Raise ur hands:gun_bandana:

This guy is safe, I know because he is a good Friend of mine and I just bought his gold Z. bUY NOW is what is says, u like the price you buy at that price. You could always send him a message with an offer, Iam sure he may consider any reasonable offer.

A stock 33 would set up back 7-8k. That one has to be worth 10-12 with those mods. Either he has made a typo or he,s hiding something

As Andy says All the ECUs are original Nissan "OEM" . Blitz,Mines,ect do not and did not ever manufacture these units. All as they do is re-programme them by installing another (E)PROM into the existing unit. Most "99.9%" of these maps are not meant to be used with low octane UK fuel. Jap fuel has a much more refined higher RON rating and the US, much lower. If you remove this (E)PROM from the unit then it becomes a bare STOCK OEM Nissan ECU. if you then place a new chip with whichever program....guess what......you got it:p So a Blitz, Mines, Tommi, Barbie, Ken ECU are STOCK Nissan ecu's with incorrectly mapped (E)PROMs. There not worth any more than other ECUs PS...Before you boys tell me that you have the above ECU and your Z does 200mph in first gear, mabee so but serious damage can occur to your engine if your fuelling is not correct especially when you turn up the boost.

correct The facelift Z was going to have the Strostek kit. Back arches were steel, not sure if the front/back was poly or FG. You would expect that if Nissan did go ahead with the new model then they wouldn't of used FG. The facelift model was scrapped due to falls in Z sales worldwide. I too had the "Strostek" Paul Bailey kit, but thought that it was very heavy for what it was. It was the best front end until Wings West brought theirs out IMO.

If I told you that my Z32 N/A can beat a modded 350 upto 100mph, would that change your mind;). They are french plastic cr*p and are very over rated. Like the Audi TTs they are becoming very common. If you like the shape of your 32 then consider a modded 32 N/A as there relibility is second to none. I spent 16.5k on my 32 TT until I decided to throw in the towel, since I had the N/A approx 3 years now I have had the cambelt tensioner break and 3 clutches:D. Bang for Buck they are hard to beat