Smithy

Yep they do! smithy

Hi mate, i think there only around 4 or 5 of us who have fitted the 99 spec fronts, so doubt you'll find the answer yer looking for as am sure we've just wired them in as required. Did you not try the wiring loom that Coz does as an optional extra ? smithy

No where near you what so ever so am not saying go there, however for price guide and details look here http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzf.html smithy

Not specialist job so yes a local garage could do it. If it turns out your timing is spot on at 15 deg, with you detting just retard a degree or 2 and this stop the detting for you. As you've increased boost, a couple degree retard won't really effect performance to any detrimont. smithy

You done what! for the PAS pot either buy one from an N/A approx 20 quid or just cut or plug one of the bottom outlets on the existing pot fella. smithy

Soz mate fraid i don't to hand. I use this one on my car and then binned the entire hicas system afterwards, lines an all. Save's some weight when the hicas is disabled though :) smithy

One of the more expensive ones, however it does sort out the inners as well which can be costly :) Bottom of page. http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/susp.php smithy

This loks nice for 5K or maybe a bit under if offering cash, almost 99 spec, not quite :) http://www.chpltd.com/japanese_performance/japclass4.html Oh and check out the website for the GTR V spec, a bit different, lol smithy

That's the whole idea bud, cheap filters are made to look like branded ones to help sales. Man look at what yer got for 20 bucks and think just how good is this gonna be, once you've seen the results of a few engines/turbo's after poor filtration you'll know what yer got for that 20 quid. Chances of you seeing something going wrong is very slight, it's how much crap it filters out is what's important. Not suggesting you pay 250 quid for a better one, however for well under a 100 quid one of the highest flowing filters on the market today is the apexi's. The 1st and possibly most important part of tuning an engine that can cost thousands to rebuild and yer pay 20 quid, yikes!! smithy

Don't yer just love some of the crappy ebay adds, not 1 of them is actually pictured on a Zed, "typical bodge to fit" your make of car :rolleyes: smithy

I asume your soutern Ireland, which means your parcels from the mainland are classed as international and all UK courier and royal mail quotes do not apply bud. if the parcel was around or just under 10kg then that figure is about right. smithy

You know you can actually buy a front bumper in 350z design for our zed ? available from japan with various pics floating around here somewheres ;) The name escapes me at the mo but it's a black and gold zed. smithy

Most average between 12-14psi and you deffo don't want go any beyond a bar (14.75psi) until other mods are done. smithy

btw, i meant ask mate what yer buying ? cos there a small number of parts that are US fitment only and no US suppllier does em for our UK spec and in some cases Jap spec. smithy

Approx 21% is what you should allow for mate and shipping fees are also duty payable, so add the cost of goods and shipping together, convert to pounds and calculate 21% of that as import fees, that is the correct amount. It does seem from Bird's £229 on a 5 thousand dollar order his goods were undervalued by almost 45%, great if all goes to plan and in his case it did, however damaged goods or missing and you can only claim the amount on the box and the company will NOT help you! smithy

Thanks folks ;) despite being called into work at 5am and having to take the sprogs out last night, i still enjoyed it, just didn't enjoy knowing i was another year older :p cheers smithy

On it's own it is mate, however they do somewhat a bit more than just supply a chip for that. Having watched them one day do this, the car is road tested, engine checked/tested as required with a conzult check too. ECU removed and socketed by a 3rd party, refitted ECU, mig tips as required or fit as an option a boost controller if customer requires, again another road test with a boost gauge plumbed in. Report done for customer of any obvious concerns found and then usually when customer returns a further road test with customer in the car and either Jeff or Jamie explaining the differences. All this is time at ? per hour which like any garage is the same amount regardless of the type of work. Oh and then add the VAT, it all adds up! Obviously anyone can buy a chip for 70 odd bucks, wap it in, (incorrectly) fry the chip or ECU, have no idea of the engine condition or possible pinking/detting due to other factors in the engine. Mowerman, with the mods you have and after fitting a new chip/controller etc, should you wish more power then new injectors would be on the cards, however not yet and certainly not a new fuel pump which can handle well in excess of 500 odd BHP! Your next mod however after this 1st should be better intercoolers as the intake charge temps will be starting to rise with the increase in performance/boost. cheers smithy

Glad to see that you actually know what it is now mate ;) Pretty much anything can be sourced and quite easily too so don't worry about that. For the likes of the temp sender unit and other nissan parts, Mike feeney MJP eastern auto a trader on here is very good, he has just been to hospital for an operation so not sure if he's back working just yet, worth trying. Or of course the company you mention above carry stock of a lot of common parts, you can get the wired connector as well as the sender unit, it comes with a small piece of loom attached, cut old plug and wire off and connect how you wish, both parts are not too expensive should you need to get from nissan. cheers smithy

No reason at all for the stockies to be still connected, so yes you can remove them completly and blank off ( think it's a 32mm plug) just make sure the blank off is nice and tight. smithy

1. sorry can't help never done it 2. yes but if staying with stock unit would suggest a light skim 3. If doing any mods more than induction/exhaust and boost upgrade then buy aftermarket as she'll soon wear out. 4.RPS Sport street for all mods upto big tubs and injectors 5.A new bushing comes with RPS 6. Very little, though never done it meself, i'd only just finished me fag when the mechanic said it was done once box and clutch was out :D 7. stainless ones have gotta be easier, lot less fidling 8. hmm well yes they can and new nissan ones ain't that cheap, however personally motor factor replacements would be teh way i'd go. hth ;) smithy

RPS Sport street $520 shipped, = approx £260, if you get hit for taxes etc, you can add another £55-£70 to the price to include handlers fee of a tenner. Dannys price, £370 and he often throws in a freebie or cheap pivot ball/clutch line. The above just an example ;) Should you decide though on importing yourself, be sure to check the clutch disc and diaphram spring very carefully before fitting as Z1 won't enetertain you once fitted even if you don't drive the car, anyways the discs are only singly wrapped inside the box and can easily damage in transit so check, the diaphram spring doesn't like heavy knocks and a hairline crack or breakage can sometimes happen under the clutch cover, you will not be able to disengage the gear in this case, just the 2 main things to look out for ;) smithy

Sorry mate, been seling clutches for bleedin years and i can tell yer for a fact, the Z1 branded clutch whilst useable, is totally unsuitable for a Zed of the spec your doing and using TD-05's, However it's your money and time not mine. Good luck! Oh and LOL smithy

Received and very happy, thanks to all involved ;) cheers smithy

The ECU thinks the car is overheating (incorrect reading from sender) and so dumps excess fuel in to help cool things down, it also activates the electric fan too. ;) This very easily floods the engine. You could remove the fuse on drivers side by firewall in small fuse cover, it's marked for you, with this removed the car should fire up temporailly for a couple of seconds using the excess fuel, may take a few goes to start. smithy

Hi mate, the fact the car doesn't start, ran rough before it happened and the fan is on ( i assume the electric fan) then 1st point to check is the top alloy water inlet pipe, 2 connectors there, the biggest one is the ECU temp sender, unclip and clean both parts as best as poss, refit and turn ignition on, if fan is now not on, car should start, previously it's flooded the engine which prevents start up. Link here to ECU codes, find the code and we can tell yer how to fix, you can do this yourself no probs. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html cheers smithy