Smithy

Man that's bad Marcus, am sure Jeff will do all he can to help sort you out though :) Fortunately he doesn't do MOT's himself personally and when asked to inspect a car, he generally photographs any faults too, this helps to avoid the negative vibes from those people who think the worse of him! Good luck mate. smithy

Matters nowt, the 11b was not designed with weather or temps in mind, but were designed for the Zed and don't have a shorter tip but do protrude longer, slightly. 11c 7's will foul far quicker than these, feel free to click the links below from NGK. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=859825&postcount=4 Thing is the guy has now got decent plugs rather than garbage, so that's that :) Snowy, i'd deffo look at your plugs, as the 11B is ONLY a plug that can be inported, it's not stocked anywhere in the UK generally only by Zed specialist suppliers and garages, you can however get the 11c no probs within the UK. smithy

So was mine, originally ;) a bit of the ole fibreglass malarkey and bobs yer uncle. smithy

You do know that post in the link is 2 years old don't yer? ;) smithy

Personally i would go with the DS2500 mate, i run these pads and a few others do too, can be somewhat dusty but theireperformance on the street with litte track use is bob on ;) the next ones up are very dusty and wear out much quicker and the ones down from the 2500 don't seem to do a great deal imo. Also look at KAD, i run the 355mm skyline kit on my Zed, cost was around 1.5k with al that you need and a colour choice of bells and calipers (6 pot) smithy

All yer need is someone to bring a conzult and they can sort yer timing out. smithy

tbh mate, the price of those is darn good! You could ask around for prices on T28 Roller bearing turbos an see what comes up, just make sure you state they are for a Zed and if the shop offer you 2 s14 ones or something like that, erm no! smithy

I printed off and faxed this thread to Jeff who in turn passed it onto Jamie, who was well impressed ;) Message from Zedworld We would personally like to thank everyone for their kind words and encouragement for Jamie, he has some way to go to be 100% but definitely on the mend now, we did have one hell of a scare though,I have passed on your wishes to Jamie and they were all appreciated Thanks again Jeff & Lynda And some pics of 1 of the 5 vehicles involved in the crash, don't look too bad, but bad enouh for a smashed sternum, hands and feet plus the usual cuts and bumps! smithy

No probs mate, you can either buy em direct from Z1 or for peace of mind and back up service danny at dta can source, once you fit 5 bolt tubs, you'll be a lot more than 400bhp bud with those other mods you got. Oh and i'd go for the 675's personally, which i will meself if mine ever go poop! cheers smithy

Not the usual ebay prices yer used to, but the correct item from someone who actually knows a zed! http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_28_59&products_id=161 smithy

In short nope, with you having done or aquired all this:- Ported heads , Ported & matched plenum , Nismo 555's JWT 400+ cams & springs , wiseco pistons slight over bore , Eagle rods , Cometic multi layer metal head gaskets 1mm, ported exhaust manifolds , Custom made 'de cat' straight tho exhaust , I feel your wasting your options tbh mate, the 1st 4 items are kinda wasted on a 4 bolt turbo IMO. You could flog the turbo's and the screamer pipes and not have to add much ££ to get say the GT675RS ones or the 600R tubs, if i was to look at buying your car in teh future and found you had done so much engine work and yet stayed at a turbo so small, i'd be kinda pissed, lol Oh and Z1 power outputs are the usual US figures, ask the likes of Kirbz or Duffers if 550bhp is capable of a 4 bolt turbo! we'd have some seriously fast Zeds on this forum if that were case ;) P.S, i'd still swap the clutch for a MAX street personally, they ain't nice in Zeds the ole 6 pucks. Oh, can i ask, did you get most of this from Z1 ? smithy

well everything else on your list is no problem for a solid 400bhp mate and you'd need nowt else. It's not quite so much the PSI the tubs will run, as the amount of power they can produce is the important factor. Plus even 500bhp zeds would run 17-18psi to achieve their figures. Look at the exhaust side of the turbo's and count the bolt holes, if theres 4 tbh i'd flog em and go a bit bigger size wise to be safe, if they have 5 holes, yer okay ;) The split downpipes need to match though, so again if your Z1 ones are a 4 bolt hole, i'd swap they for a 5 bolt version to go with some better 5 bolt turbo's. This will allow an easy 400bhp and room for any more you might require but without straining the engine. cheers smithy

Stage 2 standard turbo's ? what exactly does that consist off ? you've already got the 555's, which would be ample for a modest build. Cam gear no unless your hoping for mega power and possible awkward driveability. You've already got a very good list there, 1 or 2 i wouldn't have bothered with at your level, but you've enough ;) smithy

No probs mate, Jeff was just concerned that there were so many emails and phone messages from peeps about work on their Zeds and as a lot of the customers are from here, he just asked me to let them know the score ;) They are operating on Jamie today, so fingers crossed it all works out. cheers smithy

well fitting any type of turbo is possible to the zed pretty much, i know nowt about scoobies so dunno if their turbo is of a decent size to warrant the hassle, possibly! must confess i have never ever heard of anyone doing it, so just proceed with caution if your going to consider buying, just get as much info of the seller as to how and why he did it when there are far easier options around. Hope that helps smithy

Standard are t22b turbo's. As for fitting scooby ones, no idea what size they are but the fitting side of things would be a pain in teh arse me thinks! bear in mind our tubs are handed left and right as well, where as you would have to clock a scooby tub to fit one side. IMO not worth it, but feel free to try ;) smithy

Having only a few days ago buried a close member of Jeff's family who passed away at Xmas, Jeff and the Mrs have today been at the hospital since early hours after Jamie was involved in a 5 car smash on the M1 and is in a serious condition. Jeff has asked me to pass on his apoligies to his many customers who since just before xmas have sent emails or left phone messages regarding their Zeds. He's tried to deal with work as best as possible since the death, but today unfortunately set him right back and for once, has had to put family before his passion of Zeds and those who use Zedworld. He will be back on track asap. Cheers smithy

If that was front and rears for 600 then yep it was cheap, if just the fronts, well they tend to go for between 450-550 depending on condition and often with pads and or discs. Standard size is 324mm same as the GTR, however you can fit 330mm under with no altering, anything bigger in size and i would expect to see a bracket needed to allow for the much bigger size, however the biggest problem would be getting the correct offset, stick with the 324mm, you'll notice a vast improvement compared to stock. ;) smithy

Candy apple red with gold ghost flake on a BLACK Zed ;) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/vbgarage.php?do=popup&image=http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=6357 smithy

Just curious really, what sort of induction kit do you have ? smithy

Your not now, lol could have sworn you were down earlier tonight as registered, spooky :D smithy

Hi mate, do you know if it's a copy of the chip before John mapped the car or after ? as i had a J/D chip before he mapped it. There was still room left with mine to go a tad more, however after a couple of hours on the rollers, heatsoak became a problem. Anyways as Jimmer says ;) get a power run 1st to see what it's doing, then contact John to see if and when he can sort you out, once dates are sorted you contact WRC and arrange a mapping session. John plugs in another ECU and uses that fo rmapping and downloads the data to a chip for you for your ECU. John sits in the passenger sit with his laptop whilst the WRC guy plays with his computer and does the engine running, So WRC couldn't do this on their own. Because of teh distance i travelled i just stayed the night before at silverstone hotel and met John the next day, you could do the same being from down Devon way. http://www.wrc-tech.net/ Hope all that helps bud ;) As for the pads, just send them to the address on my website as I can't PM cos your no longer subscribed. smithy

Well John dixon can map it exactly for your mods mate, he done mine and after a few hours on the rollers, was well pleased ;) if your happy to travel i know he really likes the mappers and set up at WRC technoligies at silverstone where he done mine. On another note, i have tried contacting you about a set of rear pads sent to you by mistake, if you could return to either danny or myself ( let me know postage cost) cheers smithy

Well 1st off you are the very 1st person ever i have came across that has suffered a problem, in about 6 years! so thankfully not too much of a scare for potential new customers. Secondly, that is exactly what can happen to stock rods if just upper arms are fitted on their own or incorrect adjustment of the uppers, so that would also apply in the latter case, if fited new rods. Thirdly, i recall you contacting me early last September when your parts were just coming upto 2 years old then and you told me that there was play in the upper arms and you wanted them replaced ( which i was happy to do) I copied you the email from charles park at powertrix, see below As for the front camber arms, I have had only one set start to unscrew before, as the arm is made up of 3 different components that screw together. That is most likely the excess play in the arm. We removed the arms and unscrewed that portion of the arm that was starting to loosen and coated it with Lock-Tite or thread seal and reinstalled them on the car and have not had any issues since.This is why around 2 years ago we stated to include picture instructions showing to do this before being installed, once done it is pretty impossible for a part to loosen. This is not something unique to Powertrix arms it can happen to any brand. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance with this. " Now if your uppers had play, they had incorrect settings and this is what causes strain on the lowers (rods) hence why we state new rods should always be fitted with upper arms ( you adjust the top in/out like a pivot, it cause strain on the lower which is fixed) so though your rods were new, you suffered the same symtoms as having stock ones on due to the uppers either having play and not rectified or out of adjustment. One final note though with respect to uppers, they MUST be fitted the correct way, place a pair on a table and tell me which way they go, 99% of the peeps on here couldn't do that, hence why only powertrix and SPL that i know off, show how to do this, which i know some have got wrong. Hope this explains a bit more to anyone thinking of purchasing powertrix or currently using them ;) Oh glad to see the Teins have improved the launch and braking, rods are for adjusting caster and so can provide better sterring responce and suspension deflection. cheers smithy

Well seeing as the US spec zeds actually have a number of jap spec zed parts on them, are yer sure the wiring for the lights is deffo different ? mines a UK spec which is deffo different to jap spec and US spec. Personally i'd buy Coz's wiring kit, cos it deffo ain't UK spec and can only be a kick in the arse away from jap spec, if different at all! Mine are wired via a relay so that the main beam (HID) stays on when i go onto full beam. Man these things are bright :D smithy