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Smithy

Dormant Member
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Everything posted by Smithy

  1. Just click either the brake link or website link in my signature bud, Danny can sort yer out pretty much any brand of pads and gaurntee yer getting what you should ;) smithy
  2. Well it's certainly a decent little list mate, i assume from that and that you've kept the TD05's your looking for some decent power, the only downside with that, is the expense in other parts and looking at Z1's website, i can only see 1 clutch that would do for quite a while (RPS MAX) and 1 clutch that would do indefinately (Carbonetics twinplate) a lot would depend on the mapping of the car, if done for high BHP then the MAX would last some time, if done for pure torque, then the only clutch there would have to be the carbon one at another $2500 yikes and personally i'd pay the extra for the RPS version. So i would strongley suggest not buying the z1 clutch and flywheel, though the flywheel on it's own would be okay. Think you posted previously you had injectors ? IMO as your looking at spending almost the same amount of cash again in labour/machining costs and a basic map to suit to finish this, it's not the route i would have reccommended for yer. Sorry if it's not what yer wanna hear, it's just i know how much pain and hardship you've been through the past 2 years by being involved with Zeds and a simpler,quicker and cheaper route could have been done. That said bud, i wish yer all the very best with the project, i realy hope the wait is gonna be worth it for yer ;) smithy
  3. Snap! :D C;mon fella put the peeps outta their misery :p smithy
  4. Smithy replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    smithy
  5. Well it ain't down to the year, so can only assume yes a slight difference n offset bud. Some places if not specialising in a certain car, do often make the mistake of assuming all models are the same etc, which it seems happened 1st time round for yer am afraid. smithy
  6. This unfortunately does happen with the N/A's sometimes, garages get muddled at the best of times cos some catalogues list the 300zx as from the early 80's, being the z31. anyways back to your problem, lol Danny (dta)sells N/A discs from 3g if you get stuck, though most just wap a pair of TT calipers on and then fit TT discs, reason being is loads of companies do aftermarket TT discs but very very few do the N/A ones, Oh and often the N/A aftermarket discs cost a wee bit more than the TT ones for some reason. hope that helps a little smithy
  7. Smithy replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    Lee a simple test for yer when your zed is fully up and running. Assuming you have an aftermarket temp gauge and decent thermostat on Day 1 see how long the car takes to reach 80 degrees from cold, on day 2 and in similar conditions remove the viscous fan and see how long the car takes to reach 80 degrees, the time should be shorter as the viscous fan is no longer spinning and keeping the rad water cool, reaching correct operating temp quicker wil enable boosting the engine quicker and the engine running effectively at the correct temp. Whilst the thermostat is controlled by water temps, keeping it at the right temp in the rad means all coolant flowing through the entire system is operating the thermostat correctly. In the removing the entire viscous system, the engine is driving one less belt, hence a wee bit more power, if fitting an aftermarket electric fan with an 85 degree on/off switch, should the car reach this temp, the fan is so powerful it will reduce the rad water temp so quickly, cooler coolant is pumped around the system. Leaving the existing AUX fan as is, will do more good than harm. smithy
  8. Smithy replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    erm and whats that in relation to the above ? smithy
  9. Smithy replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    You deffo don't want both on all the time bud. The viscous fan should be running all the time that the engine is, the Aux fan should only come on when it detects overheating, around 95-98deg i think, or when it detects a fault in the ECU or the water temp sender sensor, if the fan (aux)comes on soon as you turn the key, the engine has one of these faults above. If you want to chase a few more ponies, you could ditch the viscous fan altogether and fit an electric fan to the Rad engine side and have this cut in at 85deg, this will enable cold engine warm up quicker too. smithy
  10. Underdrive pulley sweetie, bet you were worried what he wanted to give you until it arrived though :D smithy
  11. Welcome bud and as for the S12's, love em meself, I used to have a series 2 one running @ 296bhp, awesome ;) smithy
  12. No not all mate, as time has gone on minor alterations by both powertrix and SPL have been done to their suspension products, Nachi are a good make, think it was mearly down to the manufacturer. smithy
  13. With all due respect bud in relation to feedback on ebay, it's all good if the transaction went well, goods received quickly and as described and that's it. Your average joe soap wouldn't know a good set of these compared to a bad set. The Ad states " no instructions" Z32 specific upper arms are different at either end, not easily noticable, so SPL and Powertrix ones are marked accordingly and tally with the instructions supplied, fit them back to front which is very easy to do ( even for a garage) and they won't work correctly, so no instructions is great start! possibly these ones are identicle either end, if so that's even worse! It states "japanese bearings" mainly as a sales ploy cos we all like to buy japanese for our japanese car, why not state the brand, theire arn't many who do em, SPL and Powertrix use Koyo btw. They do work out cheaper than what the vast majority use, so hopefully the saving will offset what yer gonna do to get sorted IF they don't last or get fitted incorrectly and you try to sort it out with the seller. Least with danny being here, a simply local phone call or PM and he can take care of you :) smithy
  14. To be honest folks, it's been a very very long time since we 1st had issues with the software and that was before Mike stepped down. There is ONLY 1 thing that every subscribed member here will get use of for his/her subs and that's this forum! Seeing as we've had debates on what to spend some of the thosands of pounds sitting in the bank, can i again suggest we employ a company/business/person to buy what we need, do the required work and install the frills and extra's peeps are asking for and be done with it...... and no mike this is not a dig at you, you've said your to busy and thats that fella. Dunno about anybody else, but am really frustrated at not understanding why it can't be done and sorted. smithy
  15. Ah gotcha, Lee is using the SAFC to compensate for the one MAF only reading half the intake air, so it's important in this case everthing is equal on either side to work right, this is smply cos he is maxing out his present MAF. your not having this problem so hence it won't matter in what you have or doing for the future unless your running around 480ish bhp. cheers smithy
  16. As Lees present MAF is maxing out, it makes all the difference to ensure it does what he wants. What exactly have you got or using ? a pic would be good. ta smithy
  17. A small amount of turbulence is caused when the cold air passes through a MAF, as Lee is using this set up in order to achieve higher figures than a normal MAF setup, it's important that the amount and speed of air from both pipes is identicle as possible to each other, otherwise the SAFC (i think he is using) will struggle to adjust correctly enough for both his power gains and smoothness. smithy
  18. Yes mate, extra 3mm in diameter and extra 4mm in thickness. btw, i thought the braking on these was fr70-rear30 ? smithy
  19. If yer really want solid ones, Danny at DTA can supply. Stock ones however only usually break when an engine is being removed and due to age, but certainly nowt wrong with stock and will last you years. smithy
  20. Some of the usual pitfalls for yer, marked as gift is still liable for duty, marked under value and goods go missing or damaged you claim only the amount on the invoice and nothing else. Goods come by courier and they pay your fees and then bill you, parcelforce deliver and they usually wait for you to pay before delivering, most options also charge a handling fee. You should have seen in the past many peeps have been more than happy with their dealings from across the pond with only a small minorty havn't been because of amount of duties, wrong parts, missing parts etc. Just allow 21% ontop of your purchase price AND shipping as this is also taxable and you'll get a good idea if it's worth it or not. smithy
  21. The component parts except the pistons are forged. The stock pistons ain't bad, however if using an engine that was previously running on raised boost, i wouldn't even attempt high power without a refresh and forged pistons. cheers smithy
  22. Very nice pics and very informative Jaffa, however fraid we'll have to agree to disagree on my statement that the Doolz is NOT an upgrade to a hard wired in JWT twin cone kit (with idle pipe), which is what this was all about. Doolz may have smoother pipe work, but is longer and the plumbing tract is long enough as it is. Moving the AFM further down the system is not beneficial. Having sold a few Doolz in my time and studied it at great length I can see the advantage over pretty much any other induction kit ( which i've said) but for the quick fix Lee was wanting to do JWT stylee and then change to the doolz,would be a total waste of ££ and time. Quick fix is either Q45 or make his own larger MAF Without no one actually having run the 2 kits on the very same car, we'll never know which is the better, unless Lee does that! Oh and the Doolz is only about 130 delivered at the mo, so hardly worth the fanny arsing around with owt else IMO :D Smithy
  23. Compared to any single cone kit on the market yes your right, however that is not what i was saying bud. Importance thinks that the Doolz would be an upgrade to a JWT hard wired set up, in that case and it's te one being discussed, it is NOT an upgrade, in fact IMO it would produce less by moving the MAF further down. "Yeah and the idle hose seems like much less work than wiring in the 2nd AFM etc, etc.. will probably upgrade later to the Doolz but want a quick install then back on the Dyno" Just to re-correct for anyone later on :p For a quick install, make yer own JWT version or even MAF like grahame goode does. smithy
  24. :headvswal rest assured if your MAF is maxed out, which in your case i believe it is, the doolz is NOT an upgrade AND it further moves the MAF away from where it presently was which actually weakens the signal! hence the power claims not being great as they should. End of the day it's your money and time, the Q45 is the easiest and quickest route to go and WILL improve the flow and show you how much the Zed your working on has. Man in the past 10 years i've built 100's of induction kits for literaly every japanese performance car on the market using every type of MAF going.. smithy

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