dougal200

id be up for it as well. was planning on going this year but never got organised

that profile looks very familiar

you would have to make a large change to the front for this to work the 4 pots will require nearly 2x the cylinder area of the current 2 pots so the master cylinder will be totally unsuitable. you would be trying to lock the rears before the fronts- the abs will kick in and you would probobly slow down slower. physically you could fit them easily

i bought one of these too. not fitted it yet either. perhapse we could get a batch of indicators sent over from the us

replaced the fpr and it seems to have made a difference. its not overfueling as bad as it did and the power is consistant. i still have a slight popping at idle and a bit of overfueling. i might have to have a look at the o2 sensors now. also going to do a plenum pull and a egr removal soon

i was going to say the same. its a great way to smack youself in the face

those wheels are superb. like big std wheels

i will be running 225/45 on the fronts on a 9" rim and 255/40 at the rear on a 10" rim. but im looking for a bit of a streched look.

im with si on this one

i would steer lwell clear of waxoil for cavity wax. bilt humber or ditrinol for cavity wax. DO NOT USE UNDERSEAL. stone chip is probobly the best stuff for uner wheel arches but iff you are dealing bare metal i would use a zink primer then a coat of top coat the some stone chip.

perhapse you could get you lass to install it for you:D

what size are they? its going to be a metric fine thread or poss a very fine thread m8 x 1.0 or 0.75?

can you not thread it in by hand?

might be ok. id have strong words with the guys who fitted it. i would fill it up, run it for a few miles the drain and refill to get rid of the bad oil. might even be worth doing this a few times. atf is alot cheaper than a new box.

its not hard just write it down on paper and do it as you read it. unfortunatly mine was ok

i have the same problems mate. mine also kicks down with very little throttle. im sorting it by a manual conversion but id still like to know

its the same

im sure they are only fragile when you double the power and keep dumping the clutch at 6000rpm from a stand still. then they munch boxes.

i dont have any boost leaks. i sorted them all a while ago. i had the car on consult last week and jeff said it was all ok. i noticed the o2 readings were 0.2v and 0.3v almost continuously. id be supprised if it were these causing the rich running as they do not effect the running of the car at higher rpm and load. nobody has specifically told me the car is running rich but from my experience it smells like a car running rich and sometime when its dark you can see a little mist in the headlights behind when you put your foot down. my idle isnt really lumpy you can just feel as kirbz says " a slight popping from the exhaust" admittidly im very fussy about this sort of thing and most would not even notice. what would you expect the o2 values to be on idle? thanks pete

well ill let you guys know how i get on. there cant be many things i have not checked now

anyone?

surly with a vacum leak you are drawing less air through the afm so less fuel is injected. the tables turn once on boost as metered air is blown out the leak and it runs rich!

did the cooler a nd torque converter get cleaned out when the new box went in?

could be worse. it could be the drivers side. i think you can get the turbo of on the n/s with the engine in

actually could well be a duff water temp sensor