dougal200

i thought it was a harmonic damper to remove resonance at a cirtain frequency?

was the belt changes by a specialist? was the ignition timing checked after? its not too hard a job to take of the timing belt covers to see if the cam timing is ok

its not an actual 52 plate. wrong bumper for a start

oh well, thought id found the problem. ill change them anyhow

i have been trying to get my tt auto to idle a bit better and it has been getting better and better. so far i have cleaned out throttle bodies fixed lots of vacume leeks and replaced all vacume hoses with silicone cleaned maf cleaned all injector connectors and replaced plugs as they had broken up except back two. cleaned coilpack connections and replaced connectors sorted out failed electrode between coilpack and plug (small carbon bit on a spring) removed carbon canister cleaned up temp sensor and fitted new connector checked tps voltage i think that is it however there is still a bit of a vibration at idle. i know i have a knackered gearbox mount so that wont help but this will be sorted with a manual conversion. tonight i decided to clean up the two remaining injector connections and solder on the new plugs aswell as a clean out of the idle valves. while doing this i thought i would clean out the pcv valves which looked good from the outside. however although they are perfectly clean inside the valve is free to move around. the spring is not holding the vavle onto the seat so must be letting in large amounts of air on idle. in anyones experience will this improve my idle (i have just ordered 2 new valves) and could this effect the performance? ill post with the results but id like to know if im on to a winner. i will get the car to idle perfectly!

i actually only paid 220 for them:D hope they are ok and he aint just got the wrong photo

ill let you know if they are any good

just bought them so i hope they are a ok

going to set the timing in the next few days as the car is a little sluggish (could be auto box) and seems to get up to temperature very quickly pointing towards retarded timing should my auto be set to 15 or 25 btdc in neutral and which is cylinder #1 (left front as looking under bonnet?) as i dont have an induction driven strobe ta

thanks for the link. i have read through it a few times. i am still not sure if they use the manual box loom which i think includes the alternator wiring. i am probobly going to go that way as it makes the install a little neater and i intend to replace the engine loom with a new manual loom eventually. have you experience on an auto-manual conversion? many thanks

thanks for that. i understand that my ecu has already been remapped to a later spec or something like that. what would happen if i used uk clocks with my jap ecu. would it be a good time to change over to a uk spec manual ecu or would the loom not fit?

i have a 91 tt auto import it is supposed to have been converted to mph and i have an old speedo face with my documents. i have also noticed that there is what must be a speed converter soldered on to the back of the clocks. the speedo seems to over read in proportion to the speed by around 20% i have checked the speed sensor on the box and fixed that (made no difference) the speedo also seems to suddenly drop to zero at speeds below 10mph aswell. i did notice however a few weeks ago whilst crusing at about 80 that it was showing the correct speed. is this going to be dry connections? also will using the speed converter that is fitted cause issues withe the power steering hicas and auto box? ps the auto box is going in a few weeks

which may point to a stuck pcv valve

id be very interested too

mine is an auto but i have just bought a manual conversion today. what does that make mine?

well i changed the oil and cleaned out the filter and all seems fine. changes up later with my foot further down. back off and it changes up nicely. also spotted that my speed sensor hadopened up as in the faq. think i need to adjust the linkages a bit but it is all irrelivent now as i have just bought a manual conversion.:hyper:

very interested in this as well. i will also be removing my auto box to put in manual so is this a good time to sort this aswell

a bit off topic john but do you still have the manual conversion for sale?

can no one help?

i cant pm and i have been trying to get hold of john dixon but his email bounces back. does anyone know if he still has his manual conversion for sale as he lives near me. pete

its a tt. can you use a na box- i know the clutch/flywheel is different. i dont want to buy another as i have just bought this one and it was too good to turn down. i have no problem in doing the fitting. a fluid change and filter clean seems to have sorted my auto but i would still prefere to change to a manual. i also have a navan shifter fitted which should get back some of the funds and id hope to get a bit of cash back for the auto.

**MODERATION EDIT** im thinking of converting to manual how much should a kit of bits cost

well i may change the oil tomorrow and see if there are any bits in the bottom of the box. driving it today it seemed ok at light throttle. it changes to 3rd at about 3k with slightly more throttle

im not sure if my auto is behaving itsself or not it seems to shift well particually in the first two gears but seems to shift later into third unless i back off a bit. there are no fault codes from the basic check and the oil looks clean and not burnt. should an oil change and a clean of the filter sort it out or could it be a solinoid. is it likly there is any physical damage to the box?

well there is a fuse in there. ill try and see if i can test the clutch and pressure tomorrow. might give me a better idea. thanks for the help