dougal200

noticed today that my rad top hose is not full with water. ive bled the system alot but no joy. rad is topped up and bleed lets out water. i hope its not hte hg. the system is not pressurising much either. im quite confused as i would deem myself to be a very competant mechanic. im booked into zed world next weekend and wanted to resolve as many issues before hand to make life easyer for them and ensure i go away with a happy car. any ideas

sounds like a boost pipe popped off

ps Damien. have you got your car sorted yet/booked in with zed world?

spoke to zed world today and they said it is probobly not to blame however i have ordered a replacement off them which should turn up tomorrow or friday as it is making a noise still. i am not too sure about the rich running being down to the lambda sensors as the only control mixture up to around 3k and not at full throttle. suppose it could be the maf. however the car should run with the maf disconnected and mine dont so points to a problem elsewhere. Anyway the car is booked in to zedworld now for the 3rd oct so i hope that will put an end to it. looking forward to installing the manual box and turning up the boost

anyone?

i have been looking to sort out a running issue on the zed since i had it about 3 months ago. i think i have done absolutly everything mention on this site and i would hope it will run fantastically one the final niggle is sorted. however the car still has a slight lumpiness on idle and runs very rich. this evening i sorted a leak form the idle valves which has now brought the idle down consistently to 850rpm (i had already cleaned then before). while letting it idle i noticed a bit of a noise from the ns cam cover which wored me alot. took the cam belt cover off and i could not pin point the noise (i was expecting the belt to have started delaminating. turns out its the cas ( i think) basically would a failed cas beaing cause inconsistant starting (either starts inediatly or sometimes takes a second or 2) , rich running/poor fuel consumption and a general lack of guts. i did find it a bit stange when i set the timing that i had to rotate the cas alot please someone tell me this will sort it. oh and does anyone have one?

oil leak could be from the turbo oil feed. from my experience on 200s as soon as any of the oem pipes were disturbed they would start to leak/crack. try using a small mirror on a stick to have a look

its the o2 sensor. if it has gone wrong then unplugging it will make the ecu run off the base map. plug it in and see how it runs. if it makes it worse then you neen a new sensor. if you have cats still then it will have gone aswell

thanks, the ptu and temp sensor are fine. i might replace the temp sensor though as it looks like the original. only leaks are around the back but i gave it a run today and no real improvement. off with the aav etc again.

been trying to track down a few running issues today and made a bit of progress. changed the plugs as it had a set of pfr6b11 s in but this has not improved the idle really. so i made up a pressue tester. first major leak was from the n/s turbo feed (the concitenered section) this is never under boost so i doubt that this will help much. there are no other leaks from the front. there are several at the back-one i think is from the idle valve area which i have removed before so i will take this off again and re seal up. i also noticed a bubbling noise which i guess must be coming from the cam covers as the crank case will be pressurised. i do have a bit of an oil leak from both so i might have to pull the plenum. main problem is overfueling and a slightly rough idle which i was hoping was a bad boost leak but it apears not. all other obvious things have been looked at and delt with (except afm). any other ideas? ps should i loose pressure from the dip stick when doing a boost leak test?

dont think the spoiler is for a zed. i read somewhere that a seat leon one would fit. ill investigate

oh that was me. perfect as i have a red zed and a 99 spec bumper to go on. i like that alot top man

us indicators too

im thinking that is the way forward. i have a week off in a few weeks so i might try and get over to jeff

any more thoughts

i applied presure to the booster and it held fine:mad:

yep. for sure

i know ive asked before but i have had no joy fixing the problems and i think ive explored almost every avenue now my car has a vibration at idle through the body of the car. the engine is very smooth now after sorting so may little issues but i dont think i should be aable to feel vibrations through the steering wheel or body. could this be my gearbox mount causing the problem? i am still to replace the spark plugs aswell but they looked fine when i checked them. also sometimes the car starts as soon as i turn the key, other times it takes a few seconds. it is not misfiring but there is a rythmical putting with the exhaust note ( perhapse 7 times per second) that i think may be intime with the vibration. i would consider myself an experienced mechankc but this has me frustrated:headvswal please help

i guess they are based on the m1

i put the 8c in i totally agree on the gumpert. this is supposed to be most beautiful not fugly dont think you could ever describe a skyline as beautiful, good looking perhapse in an aggresive kind of way. no one would ever call Rustle Crow beautiful but the ladies seem to dig him etc

that is a strange list. i only agree on the db9 my list would be more along the lines of Ferrari 250 gto Ferrari 355 Ferrari 288 gto aston db9 jag xk180 jag e-type series 1 convertable alfa 8c lambo muira lotus esprit Citroën DS just my opinion anyway

i ran my 200 with the recirc removed. never had a problem with it. im not sure if i will do it on the 300 unless they are leaking ( which im sure they are a bit) i would avoid dump valves, they "dump" metered air which the ecu has allocated fuel for. ie you run rich on lift off and create a large bang usually. even worse if the valve leaks it will mess up fueling under acceleration and cause all sorts of running issues. plus they make you sound like a you have dump valves. just my opinion obviously

thanks guys, unfortunatly i have done all of the above except for replacing the maf. think i may have to get it on consolt. i suppose it may be the o2 sensors has anyone ever had a failed presure reg or damper? i did take the vac line off the regulator( might have been the damper-which is which) while running and blew into it which did not change anything to the idle . i think my gearbox mount is shot so that may not help aswell

unfortunatly i have done all of the above and im running out of options. thanks for the tips though guys. i did notice that the tps only registered 3.4 volts at wot not 4. set to 0.45v closed. i dont feel like it goes like it should. feels much slower than my 200sx which was running about 280bhp

the few problems i have on the car could be pointing to the maf. am i correct poor fuel consumption- less than 20mpg driving very stedy i would expect nearer 30! slightly lumpy idle strong smell of fuel when accelerating hard/ going up hill. i would have thought that the lambda sensors would have corrected any fueling issues though below 3k am i right? any way to test easily