dougal200

based on a seat ibeza i belive

well my 300zx plans are back on track Before xmas i took my red 300zx 2 + 2 tt auto of the road to do the following manual conversion engine refresh remove all rust repair rested out patch around rear light fit 99 spec front colour change to white or black interior refresh exhaust change well i stripped down the entire front of the car took the engine and box out and then found a rather bent chassis leg. looking into things it explains why the bumper never sat quite right and even why the tagas had rubbed a bit on the roof. after alot of pondering i decided repair was not going to be the best route along with the other jobs as it would be a huge amount of work and would never be as good or worth as much as an un crashed car. so what to do. The answer was to either try to sell up as a whole car which i would have had a few moral issues with (unlike the last owner) or to reshell. The answer presented itself in the form of a black series 1 swb which had been partially broken for a manual conversion and a few bits and bobs I collected the car on sunday, and a big thanks to rigs The car needs a drivers side wing and a front bumper along with a respray of the rear hatch a new interior and alot of tarting up. The plan is to remove the engine and give it back to rigs paint up my 99 spec repaint any pannels that need it restore the drivetrain clean up the undernside fit all my shiny bits refit engine-all gaskets and sensors replaced fit interior-oem recaros and black alcantara fit new wheels- enkei rp01 9" front 10" back et 22 enjoy new car aiming for summer

thanks mate, the journey went well but took a long time. ill be getting some propper time on the car at the weekend so ill get some photos up etc

Well im picking up my new shell today so if anyone sees a black swb being towed by an audi traveling from essex to shropshire give me a wave

have you put the stock boost jets in those new actuator hoses

well done mate, like they said post us some pics

as long as its low with the right wheels and no lairy body mods it will look superb

its like it round here too particually since the cold spell. Still no suspension component should fail like that, im sure the nissan item wouldnt. ill be making some shims up to go under mine when i want to adjust the camber

nice to meet you too mate, thanks the seats are great, just got to pick up the car on sunday now and ill be a happy bunny.

i had a 406 a while ago and a mate had 406 coupe. both quite nice cars. the mrs has a 206cc untill we sold it and got an a3 anything post 206 seems to have been really badly styled, perhapse by someone from veilside

only needed with vernier pulleys mate. if you have different cams its best to fit vernier pulleys to get the best from them

this is taken from an alfa v6 forum but the principle is the same and describes the two methods Lift at Top Dead Centre - i.e. measuring the lift in 'mm' when no.1 piston is at TDC and matching this to the specs. This makes perfect sense to me on an inline engine as you can set both cams at the same time. On a V engine though you have the other bank and 2 more cams to worry about as well. Now assuming the manufacturers could give you lift specs for another cylinder as well I can see this being the best way to get the timing set but I've never seen these published, only cyl 1 inlet and exhaust lift, so is this method even possible on a V engine? Full Lift Position - i.e. using a degree wheel on the crank and checking that the cams hit full lift at the specified points before or after TDC. This would seem to be quite a long winded method though with 4 cams to check and would be made more difficult by the lack of vernier pulleys. I say this as you would surely have to tension the belt first and then break the taper on the individual cams, whilst the belt is still under tension, to allow you to make small adjustments on each cam. As long as the tapers release easily this sounds fine, but they can be stubborn buggers so whilst under tension this sounds tricky? If not under tension I can't see how you keep everything in time as you move from 1 cam to the next...

if you have the cam shaft specs you can use a timing disc on the crank using a dti to find tdc through the sparkplug hole. then using the dti you can move the crank back/forward to where each cam opens btdc or atdc (from the cam specs). you use the dti on the cam bucket and it should start to open at the specified angle on the crank disc. Reading this will have either helped or made things worse, i hope its the former. there must be some dave walker/ david vizzard type pumlications online. ill have a look

you wont get any more power from a light weight pulley. less inertia so the engine will rev more freely though

surly when going through the gears the power produced stays the same as power = torque x rpm ie in a higher gear you have less torque but you still have the same power as the rpm has increased. if a dyno calculates the torque being applied to the roller and knows what rpm they are going at the it can calculate the power at the rollers. This torque must be being applied by the car. basically once you know the power produced at the wheels you can then calculate the torque Power in HP = (Torque in lb-ft) ´ RPM / 5253.5 ie it dont matter

i did mine the other day. tried using a cold chisel etc behind it but it damaged the sprocket before it moved. they rust on the inside and its such a good fit it wont budge. drilled mine in the end and was no way near as bad as i thought. ordered one from mjp, was with me in a fewdays and was about 25 plus vat.

i would imagine there is a gook 30k sitting there. this will be the best 300 in the country i would imagine with the pure quality that is going into it. what are you doing with fasteners etc replating etc or buying new from nissan?

of all the round light i have seen i like them the best by far. they are the correct proportion for the back of the car and dont give it that piggy eyed look. would almost consider a set. it also helps that they are very well executed

email sent mate

i will be running 17x9 et32 on the front with a 235 45 and 10" et 38 on the back with a 255 40. will i need arch rolling?

sure mate, i have a complete set of front and rears in either leather or cloth, the cloth seats are in better condition though. ill get some pics up tomorrow if you would like ill email them. could you get a photo up of yours

will you be selling the recaros or want to swap them for some z32 seats

well done mate i have a good condition centre bearing if you are interested

got back from the swiss alps a few weeks ago.

well done mate