dougal200

get youself a can of plus gas and give it a soak overnight, usually helps no end

its a very tight squeeze mate, you can just get to them from the top i think if you have a ratchet spanner. if you are still stuck when i come over ill give you a hand. if it make a difference the bottom two are studs with nuts and the top two are bolts. have you tried a universal joint on a long socket extension. hope it helps a bit

looks nice mate, any pics swb too - im reshelling into a black swb

i was thinking of retrimming my new zed, once i get it going. does anyone have any pics of a red alcantara interior

not sure about which pin to use but there is a faq on manual wiring. as far as i know on a standard z timing should be 15 btdc in neutral, once a gear is engaged the ecu will change this to 25 if you leave out the connection to neutral you should just set the ignition to 25 btdc what did you set it to. if it was 15 then you will be running 10deg retarded which will make the engine very sluggish at low rpm and also run too hot and have poor fuel economy. i would you set the timing to 25 and see if this improves things. if not then check the lambda sensors as i suggested Pete

in which case you should be setting it to 25 deg btdc if you have not got the neutral wire connected after a manual conversion this will cause the symptoms you have

hi mate, that was actually me that sent the question. id be interested but i really wanted an after market system. where are you based

could well be lambda sensors. once past about 3500 you will be running on the engine map (open loop) so data from the lambda sensors will be ignored. try disconnecting them and go for a run. my 200 did this when the sensor died. also dont assume the sensors are working unless you have seen them on consult

thanks mate

thats £200- not bad at all. thanks for the link mate

a late import should be good, the best thing you can do is to remove some trim and use a decent cavety wax like ditrinol or bolt humber- not waxoil

anyone else got any ideas

hi mate, what did you do to the lower manifold to get it so clean. im doing a bit of an engine refresh and id like to clean up a few allow castings a bit better. i have shot blasted my engine mounts but the inlet, oil pump and filter housing require a little more delicate approch i would think

aftermarket really but might end up stock untill i can get one i like. shame really as i have recently bought a very nice fujibitsu giken system but its for a lwb and im now breaking that.

Where can i get one from? seen the in the us but postage is like $250 anyone got one

a comon problem on the 200sx can be the induction pipe (ie the one between the air meter and the turbo) collapsing under vacume when at higher boost. perhapse try a run without the air filter and see if you get a few more psi. if you do then it will be an induction pipe collapsing

thanks guys. all sorted now. im putting in an order from the us about $25 from courtesy so not too bad. should i take the oil pump off or just fit a new seal?

Thanks mate I guess youve done that a few times

thanks mate. is it hardened steel? looks like a pig of a job

i used some polish that is used on aircraft windows and helmet visors. about £5 off ebay, they look like new now

i cant get a puller behind it. i have removed the bottom pulley without any issue but the cam belt pulley is stuck on tight (the one that runs the cam belt not the aux belts) i might end up drilling then as i want to replace the front oil seal

is there an easy way to remove the bottom cam belt pulley

i have a set of bungs i made up in the garage, ill have a look tonight

you will need a tt flywheel. if you get stuck i have a skimmed one spare not too far from you

if you cant feel it with your nail then im sure its fine