Alic

Looks like a neat car you have. Reliability wise, don't push it's limits and less stuff breaks. Depending on when your paperwork says it was last changed, replacing the timing belt and water pump might be a good idea, and general service (engine oil and filter, spark plugs, transmission fluid possibly). Got any pics so far?

With a spare car looking sad for itself it has been tempting to build a frame around it... but I havent got the time. Maybe in the future though.

Can't see the facebook picture unfortunately. Paint code on vin plate, red calipers good, powdercoat them don't paint them.

Looks neat :rockon: Were those cushions blue and faded beige? If so they don't last long do they.

It is an import, I think I am keeping one of the projector bulbs as one blew in the swb, but I believe the rest are up for grabs.

Yeah I Facebook messaged him a couple days ago

Ah shucks, bad luck mate. From the pictures all I can really see is a bent bumper but I can always grind off some brackets off the breaker if needs be.

Tiger seal, 3m tape etc.

Stripped all the panels from the rear seats back, found an original toolbag with rusty tools but that's about as interesting as it gets. The bolts for the bumper spin with the nuts so its going to be a pain to get it off. The strosek lights are a right bodge job also. Say if you need anything. I'm assuming its an ABS solenoid of sorts in the boot?

Last edited by Gaz -_- :detective:

HB mate

As Jeff said if that sensor cable is slashed, you got some soldering to do ;)

Keith's But his suspension is not lowered too much.

Can't tell you for sure but I swapped mine for a later box and it looked like the shifter part was slightly different. The loom doesn't simply 'unplug', I think it was the shifter sensor that you had to swap over because the loom is directly attached to it. At least that's what I seen to remember, stand to be corrected.

Wattage doesnt change colour, you need to get 4500k or 5000k if you want white. 6000k and 8000k are definintely blueee

About 8l from empty, but often they aren't fully drained so mine took about 5l (luckily) and showed correct level. Best to buy 6-7 to be safe, but you might not need all of it. Never heard about filling the torque converter and the nissan mech didn't do it with mine, maybe if it is brand new and/or completely drained of any fluid, but buying a used box it will generally have some fluid left in there. (maybe its a good idea though) You have to unplug the loom from the engine bay to take out the box, make sure the loom on the new box is ok as some are not a straight swap. To unbolt the torque converter, you have rotate the engine and unbolt the 4 bolts from the starter hole. Make sure you mark the prop and install it the same way to keep it balanced. Have strong muscles, you won't be able to lift it on your own so best have a friend + jack under it is my advice. Get long extensions to get the top bolts off the bell housing. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Any other questions welcomed.

Happy birthday Baz

Was this straight after you started the engine or once you'd been driving. If it only happened whenthe engine was warm it might just be oil residue evaporating off as Stephen said

Personally I would give it a good run to clean any residue out of the system. Then if problem still occurs then start checking further things.

Heavy white smoke? And coolant is still clean?

Very sad Mondo Surely its worth a repair at the price tag, but then i know nothing about sewing machines or what the problem is. To me a new motor and quick service seems the way I would go.

Happy birthday....

Shoot him a Facebook message

I seem to remember the best quote i could get was £60 within the uk, and the tailgate isnt exactly mint so i forgot it.

The spoilers are but the tailgate isn't, the shorties spoiler is shorter. I've tried to ship a tailgate before, it's really not worth the headache even within the uk