Everything posted by Z32
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cleaning idle valve, PCV oily
sorted now :) car idles exelant, even after reving it stays, where as before it cut out. cleaned the tottle bodies, removed the idle valve/ACC/IAA..... cleaned the terminals (scrape gunk & then WD40) opend/seperated it, put few cotten buds in. started car, was still dying. but then just turned the idle valve & was sorted after the first adjustment :) dont be scared to turn it, no point just doing like half a turn, wont make no difference. good few turns to adjust happy now, can try for an MOT :)
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No luck
dash isnt that hard to remove at all. sounds daunting, but its pritty straight forward
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One cylinder not firing
yea them multimeters are handy to have, for the sake of a fiver. yea PTU is real common fault, well all connections in general really? all green gunk on the injectors, PTU, water temp sensor, id give them all a clean to be honest, just to prevent getting broken down somewhere :rolleyes:
- Sensor on CAT?
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Insurance on engine swaps.
lol id like to see that :) VQ38DETT in a Z :D
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Sensor on CAT?
they are AIVs mate, not wires/electrical. yea you can just remove, or the majority of peopple on here delete the AIV (its the unit that the pipe conencts to, in the wheel arch)
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Insurance on engine swaps.
depends what engine, if your jsut putting another VG30 in there, youd just need to notify your insurers the engine is modified. no need to mention its a new engine (think you may have to on the log book?) if your doing something like sticking an RB26 in there then id imagine it being a specalist insurer. theyd probably pick a premium out a hat on the engine
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cleaning idle valve, PCV oily
its on the passanger side mate, at the back of the engine, at the top. easy way to find it, it has a yellow plug connected to (same as the injector conenctor) i havent examined the contents of the IIA, but the pipe going to it is "gunked up" so i presume the IIA will be to. yea gonna give the throttles a clean aswell, and check the voltage on the TPS. will take some pics when im down the garage sat of it. if the pipe/PCV is oily, makes me think i need to do the PCVs al together
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cleaning idle valve, PCV oily
ive only taken the IAA valve off at the moment, to give that a clean. havent done the PCVs yet, just stumbled across the oil in them when removing the idle valve.
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Can anyone lend me £53k?
when did they make the UK versions then? thaught they wernt out til March 2010 for the UK models? (just all JDM imports over here at the mo?)
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cleaning idle valve, PCV oily
PS the hardest part of removing the idle valve/IAA, is removing the clips that hold the pipe to the valve. absolute pain :headvswal
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cleaning idle valve, PCV oily
have an idle issue, so have removed the idle valve to give a clean etc. the pipe that plugs into the IAA stuck my finger in there, and its got black oil in there. quite thick aswel. i presume these are the PCVs? havent opend up the IAA yet, but i presume its gonna be full of that black oil aswell. know that PCVs can casue smoke etc, but has anyone ever changed PCVs and had their car smoke worse? or isit a good thing to remove all the PCVs and replace
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good intercoolers
you got pics of your setup? interested on modified bumper/fog part
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Speaker set up??
i think the best setup is components in the front, 1 sub & amp is enough, (dont think theres need for 2 or 4 subs, as 1 good one can just do the same.) i have a set of 6x9s in the back aswell
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One cylinder not firing
i dont think uv put the new injector connector on properly. you cant just plonk them on. you need to put the connector on, then before you conenct the 2 wires to the loom, you need to test the wires from the connector, to check they are seated correctly. to do this you need a multimeter (£5 off bay) then you need to check there is 10-15 ohms getting throo. you can connect it and only get about 1 or 2 ohms getting through, or somethimes nothing at all. i had to remove & refit mine about 5 times sometimes jsut to get the multimeter correct. when the multimeter shows 10-15ohms, then connect it to the EFI loom :)
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location of boost restrictors
the 2 pipes each side of engine, go from under by the turbo, to the metal intercooler pipe at the front. they have like a protective jacket on them :duffer:
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One cylinder not firing
did you clean the PTU correctly? isit the same cylinder which is missing, that you put the new connector on? i had a problem on an old car, was the coilpack, the symptom was when cold was fine, but when warm up they lose the resistance, and fail. when they cool down again they work fine.
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can i clean the conections of the injectors?
thats coil packs & injectors, only need injectors. Zedwizz is the boy, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-300zx-Fuel-injector-connector-plug-and-loom_W0QQitemZ150369438560QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2302b78b60&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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9 months since drove my Z. til today :)
when its MOTd il get some nice pics done, and yea ant go for a meet cardiff or somehting. soon as its motd be on the road. just need to sort a idle problem then sorted :rant:
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A good diagram of the vacuums - here :)
i have removed them completly at the mo, and just blocked off the holes (on the IC pipe, and the hole on the rubber T piece which the AFM goes to) when i had the re-circs on "HKS mode" i just had the recirc plugged into the metal IC pipe, then the rubber return hose removed from the rubber T piece which the AFM goes to, and blocked up (obv still had the vacc pipe on the top aswel) the air isnt re-curculated back thro, as the return pipe is removed, so the air is just vented out through the re-circ sorta, which makes it sound like a dv
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can i clean the conections of the injectors?
- 9 months since drove my Z. til today :)
oh shutup 0.5PSI out :p- 9 months since drove my Z. til today :)
yea, i meant that 10 PSI is standard, to what ive been used to before on it. its running 7PSI safety now, but the NA diff is compensating for the 3 PSI difference im used to (from safety to standard) get me:) will get pics up when its MOT'd- Daily Drivers?
the Z is a costly machine isnt it lol know its fun, but man how fast can it drink petrol! been using my 1.0 3 cyl corsa, "gets you from A to B" :rofl:- 9 months since drove my Z. til today :)
cars been off the road due to crash december 08 :rolleyes: done a re-shell back in April, and had it starting last month :rolleyes: but today was the first time ive been for a drive in it :) whilst i did the re-shell, i used the NA diff, with the TT engine etc etc now i know ive been used to my 1.0 three cylinder corsa for a while, :p but the cars fast as hell! honest its quick as hell with the NA diff, i havent connected the boost solenoids up yet, and i think the NA diff is compensating for the 3PSI safety boost! cant wait to get boost on 14 PSI think its gonna be scary :hurl: - 9 months since drove my Z. til today :)