Z32

na its not that kinda bus sound, more of a whining, higher pitched. as long as engine doesnt have to come out to change ok, il see what garage say tomo. oh and heres a little pic for you :)

no not 100% mate. i sprayd some WD40 on the pulley to see, but made no diff. garage will have a look tomo as its in for MOT. is it engine out to replace tho? thinking the worst. may not even be it, just what i suspect :confused:

well just drove the car :) 1st time since ive had it! 4 months lol. its got a whine noise tho?? its my old engine, workt fine before. the noise gets higher pitched when you rev it? noticed some power steering fluid on the floor, quite a bit tbh. ive got the TT power steering pump, but ive got rid of the hicas. is it engine out job to replace? :confused:

ive done it. its pritty strait forward really. pedal is a bit potchy, but patience and its out. Ant, what wiring? i kept the auto loom. all you have to do is cut & join 2 wires in the drivers side wheel arch

i had similar before, sounds like a leak, either oil, or air/exhast fume

thanks ive got it now :) i was looking on the other metal hard pipe (there are 2 metal pipes each side) still got boost leak as car wont idle, but thats something seperate

all goes on the mods! need to know his mods & what boost running. an RS turbo could be faster than a Z, tuned RS with lots of boost Vs stock Z. common sense really?

isit? those 2 above are on the large rubber one that go from the air filter to the turbo. where can i connect the actuator to on the drivers side then? there defo isnt a take-off on the intercooler like the passanger side

do you mean the lightning things? if so im afraid i threw them in the bin, as they were embarrassing lol

incase anyone forgot, or was interested, heres a pic of the car in its current state Twin Turbo Engine in proof of no Hicas solenoid lol (also removed all the now obselete automatic swtiches and wiring there) its all up & running, gota sort the piping on the drivers wastegate, and connect the drivers side intercooler. clutch is all bled :xxx: MOT is next week :)

ok just been on the car. the drivers side setup is different to the passanger side. the passanger side, the wastegate pipe goes to the metal intercooler pipe, as there is a take-off for it. the other sides metal pipes do not. there is a take off on the RUBBER pipe on the drivers side, its the same pipe as ACC vale is on (pic above) i asume this is acceptable to put the drivers side wastegate pipe to???

PS that AAC, is that on each side? or that only on 1 side. ive got that blocked off on the drivers side, maybe why its idle'ing crap? need to check the passanger side :confused:

yea that be good, the existing nissan diagrams are a bit hard to work out. its ok tho, just last time im sure i couldnt see a take-off on the left intercooler hard pipe, and the pipe on the wastegate pipe is on wrong, doesnt look asif long enough. il take a pic of mine aswel to show you.

ok thanks, "pipe directly from metal boost pipe to waste gate control sol (3 way splitter)" this is the 1 i need to look for. by the looks, i can only see one pipe from under the turbo, in a rubber jacket, but its been conencted to the balance bar. need to re-route this then i take it

thanks mate. i coudnt see the take off on the drivers side intercooler for the wastegate, but its obv there? (metal hardpipe) ive seen this pipe, which is a rubber pipe, but it has nothing onit? ?

the pipe from the wastegate actuator, originally goes to the intercooler pipe. one side i have this, but on the other side, it looks like ive got the pipe going back to the intake plenum? on the balance bar? is this correct? or does it HAVE to go to the intercooler??

yea that could be a possibility, as ive had the dash removed and all the controls etc

yea thats all i can think of is the fuse really, can sombody advise which one it is? i dont have the cover :cry:

my connections were all corroded, so i tried making new spade terminals to each (yes you are correct, there are 2 wires from the loom which go to each injector, one + and one - ) that didnt work, they need to be spot on really. new connections, 7.50 each, much better. bit potchy getting them seated correctly, especially the 2 at the back. but nice when all done :) get a volt meter, and test the amps at the connections after you have fitted to the injector. they should be 10-15a. youl find with home made crappy connections, only about 0.3a will get through

make sure you clean both ends, not just in the prongs, but at the wires, where the wire goes to the connector. my injector ones were so bad i had to buy new ones. the injectors are very fussy and need the correct amouont of current going through them

my hazzards were working. i was changing a buld in the side repeater, then the hazards have stopped working. all indicaors work, each side, front and back. ive looked in the fuses in the drivers footwell, they all apear to be fine? is there anything else i should be looking for or any suggesestions?

i dont think its going to be the cats. the Z isnt on the list/too old for the cars that require that. many decat and still pass MOT

i found the tubes in question, they run from the actuaters, then go to the metal intercooler pipes. ive got the tubes from the actuater, however ive blocked it at the other end? as i was under the impression it just runs down the side of the IC pipes, feeds the re-circs. is this correct? or do they need to go to a vacuum?

i cant remember which one goes where now, but i was looking at mine, i didnt see the point of conencting the red vacuum pipe, as the bottom one goes to the hard pipes, then back to the intake plenum?? i just blocked the pipe off at the intake plenum. surley you cant get a boost leak from removing the CC? just fuel vapours etc

chizle is the easiest way mate, you need to remove all the plastic on the boot trim to see if any screws there tho 1st