Z32

if its going to the big thick black one, thats the loom side. you need to attach it to the solenoid on the side of the engine. remember, there are 2 solenoids, 1 each side of the engine. so look at the oposite side to check that one too :dance:

well looks like its the solenoid end, does it go under by the side of the engine? (where the solenoids are) or does it actually go to the loom (the big thick black tube with all the connectors for the coilpacks & injectors) Jeff, does it matter which wire you connect the + to on the solenoid? (polarity sensative)

i havent the connections on my solenoids, as used a NA loom. theres 2 wires on them, asume + and - so if you fit an ignition powerd + on them, itl allow it to boost the standard 10 PSI isit? whats the det part you mention? if you use an EBC do you then get det control?

cap is easy, just have posotive from the battery to the + on the cap, then another seperate wire from the + on the cap to the + on the amp (so 2 wires on the +) the - on the cap just goes to the earth of the car then.

the loom doesnt have lots and lots of length on it, the are quite tight, so the connection has gotta be in that area somewhere. unless theyv been cut off, as someone has had an EBC in there. if yout 100% sure you cant find it, or suspect its been cut off, you need a EBC. about £100 for the old model HKS ones, so its not the end of the world

yea 55 is normal mate. well if its defo a TT chasis/loom, look for the wire :) engine bay is a bit crowded! just take your time and make sure its light so you can see :)

um, think maybe your alternator/battery. does it only happen when your music/subs are turned up loud?

the car has the solenoids, that pic is the connector coming off it. think he means he cant find the connector on the loom to plug it to. it could be a TT engine in a NA car, with NA loom. the NA loom doesnt have the wire/connector that plugs into the boost solenoid. perhaps then someone has had a electronic boost controller fitted at some point. but then removed it when sold it. if you dont have the wire on the loom to plug to the solenoid, you need a electronic boost controller.

the pipe with the screw init, that just goes to the Intercooler pipes at the front, i think, then connects to the re-circs.

tried charging it?

what does the wires from the loom, to the solenoids actually do? is it just a posotive and negative to tell them to "work" ive done a NA to TT conversion, wondered rarther than fitting an EBC, could just wire 2 wires to the solenoids from the battery. or am sure someone will explain the certain signals they receive otherwise :D

tested each injecrtor with ohm meter, direct at the injector they are in spec. however, at the end of my new home made connections (with speaker spades) the reading is crap! 0.something, 1. sonething, so its obviously my bad home made connections. gonna order some new ones, correct ones, only 45 quid for set of 6. gotta work then! i am unsure, are injectors polarity sensative? i know which wire is = on the loom, but not the injector? does it matter? how i find out?

so have you got the profec installed, AND and aftermarket boost gauge? do they say different readings or the same?

i tried another 1 thats all, by using the known loom on that injector. guess should have tried the others, but only the 1 is clicking :confused: odd that 5 of them would go same time? but the noid light flashes on all the other injector connectors?

MORE of updarte lol :) spun the CAS, can hear only 1 injector clicking! tried each injector 1 by 1. so i know that injector is working, and has signal going to it from that loom. tried the working loom on a different injector. no clicks. may have narrowed it down to the injectors themselves :cool: maybe?

its ok i found wich one. petrol comes through the filter nicely, and ive tested a small bit of it outside and its still flamable lol back to the issue with the injectors, will update other thread :)

under the impression that my car may not be starting due to old fuel in the car. the petrol maybe over a year ana half old? mabye more as i have a SORN for 2006. but i think its been on the road after that, mayeb a year ana half? what be the easiest way do it? read you can spin the CAS, remove the pipes from the fuel filter isit? which ones as there are 2 pipes....

i must add tho, i just plugged anthonys CAS into the loom to spin to listen to the clicks. i havent swapped his working CAS to mine then tried starting car. any views on my previous posts? with the noid light etc?

ok, tried the ECU on anthony D's car. ECU works fine. put noid lights on the injector loom/connectors, noid light flashes on each one. (this is normal i beleive) DOESNT stay on, or just not light up. it flashes as you turn the car over. lent a working CAS, plugged it in, spun with the ignition on, with the fuel pump fuse in, the injectors click, with the fuel pump fuse out, they dont click. if above is correct, fault must be else where? or is this wrong? is this the correct way the pipes go from the fuel filter?

here you go legrath, http://www.driftworks.com/forum/media-section/89354-d1gp-z32-300zx.html

looks mad seing them on T reg! :)

1 last one :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPN0K4W17vU&feature=related

dont know if you guys into the driftworld, but just thaught id post this on here :) Vid: [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE] nice aye? :p

sorry pete, the garage/RAC diagnostics just told me that the injectors wernt getting neg signals, so asumed theyd alreadys used one. i bought a noid light yesterday, so will be testing when receive. im off down anthony d's later to test the ECU. will post results if ECU works tonight :smash: