Z32

na its just a straight forward swap. make sure you get the blue connector in evenly, and firmly, but not too tight.

hmm someone elabirate on this please, the pipe thats on the plenum is connected to the EGR, but if there is a pipe going from the intake/air filter ive blocked that up. the carbon canister thing wont casue boost leak tho?

ah ok, at the mo the EGR is connected to that pipe on the intake, il just remvoe it. the carbon canister one is fine left like that then yea, am going to remove the carbon canister as bumper off, the one in the pic isnt the petrol take off then, it must be the breather yea

never heard from it, and description is a bit vauge! im asuming its the usual stage 1 mods, with increased boost

ah ok. what about the last pic?

i did! if you remvoe the pipe on the standard re-circ, the one that goes from the valve to the air intake, and block the ends up, the re-circ turns into a HKS SSQV sound!

does it really use power? its just bolted onto the crank? or does the weight of the fan use the power

got this in the corner, nothing going to it. im asuming this is the AIV solenoid or somehting? ive noticed that this doesnt hard pipe doesnt have a pipe connected to it? its on the driver side throtle body, and also ive noticed this doesnt have anything connected to it, its by the passanger side, at the front by the light

i would say boost leak also if it runs poor over 0 PSI

ive got a NA auto loom, and car. but iv got TT and manual engine/box. there are things which are connected to the side of the engine on the NA, but connect to the body of the TT car. if you have the other loom, you probably have this. its probably the AIV, Fuel Pressure Relief Valve, and EGR. pics would help a great deal :)

minter im glad to hear it! isnt it suprising how terrible the connections get with japanese gunk! iv sorted mine, but still isnt starting, but i havent dried the spark plugs yet, how wet were yours? my cars going to the garage as i havent got the correct size socket to remove the plug :smash:

if you didnt have a viscous, your electrics should have been on all the time anyway, not just on a controller?

going to resove the 5 cylinder issue i have this weekend (or at leat hope lol) ive done an engine swap into a new car, (the coilpacks & injectors themselves workt fine when engine was runnig in old car) im expecting the rest of the connections on the loom to be all green/corroded, as the temp sensor one was foul! so after cutting & cleaning the temp sensor resoved the over fueling issue, i can see the first couple of injectors, which are on the inside of the intake plenum things lol where are the others? hiding underneath at the back? is the balance bar hard to remove? any tips on cleaning the injector connections be great, (the coilpack connections look clean & healthy) but ive a feeling the injectors are smelly (i cant think what else would make it run on 5)

i had this, there is loads of green gunk in the yellow connector itself, make a note of which wire goes to which prong (there are 2) then cut the yellow connector off completly, itl be full of the green stuff. then cut the plastic off the wire to get fresh metal, then put them on the prongs on the sensor. i used speaker spades to connect them onto the prongs. works now :)

yea thats what got planned. car ive soved the temp sensor, and car started so its de-flooded, mostly. havent started it again, til the rad is on, (all boost pipes are fine) just gota get it on all 6 cylinder now/ iddling tidy with no petrol smoke etc

yea but the ruff running, which sounds like on 5 cylinders, has nothing to do with the rad not being connected, its not asif the engine is overheating, becuase its only been startd for a few seconds for me to hear its not running correct

hmm, problem is car isnt idling very well at the mo, and trying to keep it starting etc, and burn off the excess petrol off. at the mo the rad is off, and i dont wana keep the engine started for longer than a couple of seconds/minutes without the rad on. (especially if i have to rev it to burn the petrol off) just wondering what the difference on the 2 pipes on the engine are, if water goes in 1 and out the other, in which case id only need to put water in 1 the pipes?

just putting the rad back in (man what a potch with the IC pipes) do you fill the engine up with water frist yea? in the 2 hard pipes, top & bottom? or just one of them. or dont put nothing into the engine, fill up the rad only, and itl find its way to the engine when full?

na ant was a boy up here, 2 dump valves on a RS Turbo.. did sound loud tho

look on the front of the engine, there are 2 pipes that go to the radiater, there are 2 connections on the metal pipes of the engine. the yellow one is the one, you need to clean the connections to the sensor, but also the one that the 2 wires go to the yellow connector. mine was all green and smelly, i had to cut the yellow connector off, strip the 2 wires then connect. make sure u remember which wire goes to which prong on the sensor

haha just lost the race :)

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

hmm yea ive done that method before, when trying to find out which coilpack had gone. only prob ive got is the car hasnt been idling previously, so cant leave the car tick over whilst i examine the coilpacks/injectors. i didnt try an let it tick over tonight tho, just kept the revs on then nockt off when finisht, so it may tick over now (as this was 1st time started after me sorting the temp sensor) im going to rule out the coilpacks & injectors themselves, just the connections to them.

i didnt have the correct size socket for them, ive got deep reach ones, but didnt not the correct size (whatever size the spark plugs are?) the car started tonight off the key, it wil rev all the way out, i kept it there for a while to try and burn off the fuel. was very petroly/smokey, and exhaust even poppt a bit. it definitly isnt running right tho, im pritty sure isnt on 6 cylinders (impreza sound) all the coil packs were fine before i did the engine swap. as were the plugs. as its a different car/loom, i can only asume its 1 of the connections, the Injectors i asume? this would casue ruff running & not on 6 cylinders yea, but why is the ECU telling me no errors?

the ECU self diagnosis itslef! you wind it anti-clockwise, keep it there for 2 seconds, wind it all the way back, then it flashes a certain amount of times. count the flashes then check what the code it. the link has just been posted above for you :duffer: