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Z32

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Z32

  1. doing NA to TT conversion, garage have foned me, the front half of TT prop is not mating with the rear half of the NA prop! the rear half is automatic, the front hald is manual if that makes any difference? the garage said the flanges are not meeting up? the car has the NA subframe & NA diff on, ive scrapped the TT diff now as was told it doesnt fitt the NA subframe??? please help im stuck!! :confused:
  2. just e-mailed mate, easiest option :hyper:
  3. ive got the gearbox out, il stick to the wheel arch as i now know what to do :) thanks guys :)
  4. thanks legrath, so jsut cut the big grey block off yea, then conenct the 2 together? think ive got it.....
  5. dont have spare, if someone has the diagram, or can confirm exactly how to go about it be great.........
  6. um... ok, this is what the guide says: In the driver fender the black/white and the black/yellow wires are the ones that need to be connected. This will bypass everything. but the pic confuses me a bit, as none look conencted, and there are some bits of solder, or perhaps he hasnt finisht on the pic?
  7. right cars going in tomo morning, and ive only got tonight to sort this :wack: cars auto, and goin manual. what do i need to do to bypass the starter thing? ive got this pic, but its a little vauge? do i reconnect the big grey connecter? it says need to connect the black/yellow to the black/white wire? do i do this in the middle of the 2 wires, so that the both wires are intact at the big grey conectors? but meet in the middle or do i remove the black/white wire from the grey conenctor, and splice to the black/yellow wire? can someone clarify please, asume u just have a third bit of wire that connects them both together in the middle, whilst their are all connected to the big grey connecter?
  8. ok about to do this it says connect the black/yellow wire to the black/wire. do i leave the big grey connector disconected like in the pic? im a bit confused, do i just cut one of the wires in half and splice into the other one? what about the other end that is cut, just leave it ?
  9. remove the front light for me, passanger side i really neeed one!, anyone! :)
  10. just for test fitment. somehow it got damaged, even tho the other side of the car got hit. :confused:
  11. woops, if someone can edit above heres the gearbox... and the IC pipes removed :)
  12. seats removed, as you can see the drivers bolster needs swapping... manual gearbox... the VG30DE stripped a bit ready to be removed..... complete pain in the arse, one of the difficult-est things to remove was the steering boss!! (momo boss, with nardi torino adapter) i smashed the majority of the steering column trying to remove this!! back end of the car with new tailgate and standard lights back on, and bumper and the old one being scrapped :cry: engine swap is set for thursday, so il have an update on the weekend ;)
  13. ok update :) as this shell is NA, there are obviously no intercooler piping. the NA aircon rad is a bit bigger than the TT one, so theres no room for the IC pipes with NA aircon rad. as aircon is just un-necessary, and heavy, its being binned. :p intercooler pipes removed from the TT, and fitted :) quite easy to be honest, was a pain in the arse removing the pipes from the TT, but when the aircon rad & engine rad is removed its very easy, they just fall out needed to remove a panel from the old car, as the new one didnt have. the plastic screws had been rounded, so drilled out with the 1980s black and decka lol fuel pumps swapped heres a random pic of that dash :hurl:
  14. wide wheels much better. really does help the handling, and they look so much better. i had 7J before on my S13, much too thin. ive got 9J on my Z, and id never go thinner than that again :)
  15. so they wont do it? how much is your excess
  16. hi baz, thanks for that pic! havent seen that before. yea im going well onit, put the clutch pedal on the new one over the weekend, il post some pics up tonight! :)
  17. thanks a lot mate :) was confised when i realised the NA air con rad was bigger than the TT one, but il chuck it in the bin now thanks :)
  18. just carrying out the NA to TT conversion, ive got the water radiater off for the new one, just looking at the other rad, its larger than the turbo one. so went to remove it from the TT car, then realised it only looks like its going to the air con?? im binning the air con so is there any point of this? looks like the elecric fan cools this for some reason?
  19. lol, its ok, there is a NA pump controller already in there, so dont need to do any swapping about :)
  20. ok thanks, ive just spoken to Z world, they said i need to use the TT ECU (or chip the NA ECU to TT spec) you can use the NA controller & na pump, (as the NA fuel pump is good enough) or its fine to use the TT ECU, and NA controller and TT pump, as the TT pump works fine on 2 speed, aslong as the pump is receiving a 2 speed signal (which the NA/TT controller has, and bothe the NA/TT ECU provide) itl all work. so im told! il let you know when its all together :wack:
  21. hi mate, yea iv just read the guide thing above, the TT is 3 speed, and the NA is 2 speed. the NA pump controller is 2 speed, but thhe TT pump will work fine on 2 speed. but i dont know if a TT ECU will work with the NA pump controller? TT ECU requires a wire to be run from the ECU to the pump controller, to get the third speed to the pump. but im wondering if its ok to use the TT ECU, the TT or NA controller, without wiring the extra wire, as the pump will run on 2 speeds fine?
  22. yes, i had bought that clutch, mine is fairly standard/stage1, works fine. its only done a few miles tho, but my old clutch was quite bad, when i put this exedy one on, car was a Lot faster (got the power down very harshly lol)
  23. The 90-93 NA models run the pump at 2 speeds and the TT run the pump at 3 speeds. We recommend leaving in the NA fuel pump control unit (FPC) as there is no problem running the TT pump at 2 speeds. As well as the fact that if running the TT FPC you’ll need to run a TT ECU that is capable of supplying signals for the three speed controller. Then you’ll have to run an extra wire through your car from the TT ECU to the TT FPC that controls the third speed because that wire doesn’t exist in the NA body harness. Moral of the story is upgrade your NA ECU to TT specs, and drop in a TT fuel pump. It’s less parts to buy, less work, and you’ll have enough fuel for 700 rwhp+ could i use TT ECU, NA pump controll, and TT pump ?
  24. thanks mate, so il have the rear half of the prop, even tho its a automatic? will the car start with the TT pump, NA sensor then NA ECU?? just for me to see if the engine/wiring is correct after the swap? i can then chip the ECU like you say. remember its an auto ECU aswel, so thats fine yea? cheers in advance
  25. im using the TT gearbox, NA subfram & diff. front half of TT prop, then second half of NA prop (think thats the way to connect them?) im asuming the rear half of the NA prop is still on the car as its automatic??

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