Z32

left the throttles open, (with IC rubbers removed) and also the coilpacks remvoed, to try and get as much air in there to dry it out. left overnight but still nothing :( going to try bumping the car down a hill tonight, hoping that should get it all started???

lol yea, well its just the same really, 2 dump valves on 1 car is going to sound loud. as our cars are twin turbos, would be nice to do things symetrical and have 2. but as before im sure it would be fine to run 1

one dump valve sure be fine, ive seen 2 dump valves on a single turbo car :)

man how many times is this sort of post coming about latelty :( the cars are shit for the PTU & water temp sensor connections getting corroded on the front, thats the usual reply your going to get. mine has messed up now my engine is flooded to bits. try an ECU diagnostic check, (very easy & helpfull feature)

why? surely if you had 1 recirc valve on one of the IC pipes, and one DV on the other IC pipe, the car woudnt recognise any difference and still work? or even if you removed 1 re-circ, blocked it up, then on the other pipe remvoe the recirc & replace with a DV? cant see why that wont work

after 500, i dont know if i would be able to tell the difference between 500 and 800. 500 with a lot of boost must be mental, high 300 is fast for the streets. 500 would be my limit really woudnt want more than that, only because i woudnt behave in it and that be dangerous. im not the sensiblest with 350 :S

dont think its very expensive at all for the gasket, and changing it isnt very difficult, as its just the rocker cover coming off, not the head

there is something by the HICAS to do with it, what i did, was keep a bit of wood going from the steering wheel to the pedal, so the pedal was presst in fully. left it for 2 days, took the wood off, then it was fine! :)

have you got a full pedal? (does it come up all the way i mean) or just half way...

did this get sorted after? if there was no spark thats gotta be something!

yea its like im slowly making progress. il jam the throttle open with the boost pipes removed to try an get as much air into there to dry them out. its not starting again at the mo tho, its asif its busting to but not getting fuel to just roar up! try and dry as much as possible, then il post an update. any other suggestins from anyone, or agree its flooded please reply!

really? thaught the ECU was pritty good??

right then, the wires that go to the temp sensor were all gunked up, not the connection where the sensor meets the yellow bit. (had to break the plastic yellow bit to get at it) made a nice new connection, with fresh wire, ECU now readys code 55 (normal) removed fuse, turned over few times, put fuse back in, started first time, but died within 3 seconds :confused: also was only on about 300rpm. what can i do??? is it stupidly flooded? ECU reads to errors, so the injectors etc etc are all connected and fine yea?

NA brakes are smaller than TT iirc? ive done a TT conversion, but left the NA brakes on.

ive done a search, believe they are the "pre-tensioners" do these need to be connected? how do they work? cant seem to see anything to connect them to & wondered if its ok to just cut em off. not all cars have them?

once again, do an ECU diagnostic check.... me and you probably have the same problem. heres the guide, http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html let me know if you have error 13 aswel.

cheers maz, hopefully thatl sort mine, mackl007 what colour are the connections, ? ive just done an auto to manual conversion, sounds like you have the NA loom if its what im thinking, il take some pics of the spare ones that are left on a NA loom, that have nowhere to connect on a TT. (reason is, the components are on the side of the engine on an NA, but on a TT engine, the components are not, as the are on the body of the car) so sounds like you have the NA loom, as there are a few spares with nothing to go to. these are Fuel Pressure Relief Valve, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), and the AIV exhaust emisions thing

sorted :) where i had put the dash back in, it had gone over the other 2 connectors, hiding them panick over, glad i threw the lightning clocks out now :wack:

heres a vid that i put on you tube :) [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE] describes how it all works, know its slightly more complicated on a Z as there are 2 turbos/intercoolers

ok cheers dudes, il double check if some have fallen down or something, pritty sure cudnt see them tho. il let you know tonight :)

ive got 1 of the 3 connections in, but i cant see any spares off the dash loom to connect to the other 2? all the other wires coming off go to the side controls, for the lights & heater controls.. il double check, but i cant see them?

ah. well the TT clocks are from my Jap '91. the NA car is also Jap, but '90. the clocks are in MPH, so i asume its a jap cluster with UK "lightning" decals lol just wanted to know if theres any alteration, as i dont have the old jap car to compare the dash looms. or if anyone has a pic of the wiring differencees on the Z over the changes, i can have a look whats missing

exacltly, i wondered if they were from a TT or something? ive thrown them out, so i dont know if the connections are the same on the TT to the NA on the back? i threw them out and removed them a while ago, and cant remember what/where things were connected to, (if any) il post pic of the back tonight if you like

think ive done something silly, car is NA auto, ive thrown out the clocks on my car, as they lookt like this.... ive gone to replace them with the clocks from my other car (manaul TT) the connections seem different at the back?? there are 3 spaces on the back of the TT clocks, which 3 blocks click into. gone to connect them up, but on the NA auto dash loom there only appears to be 1 block to conenct up?? :confused: are the clusters all the same?

mickml007 what loom are you using? if you have a NA loom on a TT there will be some leftover, as there are 3 things (AIV, EGR FPRV) that are on the body of the TT car, but go on the side of the NA engine. these are fine to leave blank. well you know if you have the TT loom, as youl have connectors for the red boost solenoids, on each turbo. have you done ECU diagnosic check?? Maz, was it the actual sensor itself? i have the same prob, ECU is showing its the temp sensor as fault, ive cleaned the connections but still not working. so when you changed the actual sensor that goes on the water pipe it workt yea?