Z32

na there is no electrical signal to the injectors. iv had good experienced mechanics on the scene, mate works for the RAC breakdown and put loads of tester things onit, i asume theyv used that noid thing, as theyve said there is no electrical signal to the injecors. yea im trying to think logically. i have a spare PTU ant thanks, but again logically the CAS & PTU workt fine before the swap. unless the CAS connection is iffy, but ive checked it & its clean. but again logically if the connection was wrong, the ECU would pick that up and display the code? thanks for your assistance on this guys, maybe one of the issues mentioned above, hope by describing the symptoms & whats been done will help you resove it

i know :( jsut to recap, the CAS and all engine bits were working fine, before the swap. its gota be the loom surely? or 1 of the connections on it?

ah sorry, i mean they are not clicking from when u try startting, not when turning manually.

injectors are not clicking no. its an electrical issue i think?

fuel pump primes, ive actually had the car started, but must have been the dreggs of fuel still in the engine. ive checked the connections for the usual grime on the CAS and its clean. and the CAS itself is on the engine which workt fine before the swap. the ECU has doesnt say the error code for the CAS tho? spark plugs are dry.

just tried the NA ECU and still same situation. plugged TT ECU in again still on code 55 (normal) not firing tho :(

cars been down garage, and theyv had RAC diagnostic thing onit aswell. the injectors are not working, not clicking, and not getting power/earth. ive done a NA to TT conversion, kept the NA loom. using the TT ECU ive changed the connections on the front 4 injectors. the ECU is not showing any error codes. the injectors were working fine before i did the swap, as the engine is from my old car, as is the ECU. do i need a new loom? im about to give up on the car :(

can be bit potchy/time consuming. removing them is easy, undo the 2 nuts in the boot. then theres a larger bolt at the bottom of the strut. when putting them back on, put them on from the bottom first, then up to the top.

the NA rads are longer than the TT rads. you wont get a NA rad in between the IC pipes. its tight enough getting the TT rad in between the IC pipes!

what you mean he filled with the plugs, the coilpack connections were loose were they? and the battry died situation was the alarm yea?

yea easy really, just a bit potchy to get in there with the bumper and filter in the way. easier to remove the headlight panel in the muiddle, and the filter/AFM can get at the re-circs bit easier then

cant you jsut clean the corrossion off the brakes pipes? or do they have to be replaced? sanding the rust would be cheaper i would have thaught.

ye iv wondered how much a custom one would be, as its a V6, your gonna require 2 of them. double the price of a "normal" car. unless you want a single exit of course lol can someone tell me how much mine cost new? twin kakimotos, full cat back stainless.

think the third speed is very rarely used to be honest. speed 2 is efficant so ive read. even the NA fuel pump itself is ok for the average Z, but i swapped it anyway. yea i couldt be arst with the looms, lookt a bit daunting! wish i took the EFI loom tho, as didnt realise its quite small and easy to remove (i had the dash off) the loom i usedhad filthy connections, spent about 4 hours cleaning them. probably could have taken the EFI loom from the car in 1 hour

i think that requires its own thread mate :) il be watching it tho! rarther chip my NA ECU, so can sell my TT one then :)

why you need to disconect the prop? this only on autos? or manuals too?

cupl mine have snapped, just pull & wiggle from left to right, they come off quite easy,

i sent an e-mail to DTA on here regarging that, chipping/mapping the standard NA ECU, to provide enough fuel for the TT engine. ive read you can do it, but when i e-mailed them they said no? perhaps i wasnt clear on my request. thanks tho mate, glad i know this isnt the problem :duffer:

really? whats the show about?

just had reply from that "ash" someone said about... There are no issues with using the configuration you have in place. You have some other issue going on there. Have you done a pressurized intake leak test? (Boost leak test) -Ash so now i know the pump setup i have is fine, i can look at the basics :)

the pump is priming at the mo with the current setup. teh car has even started! but idled very crap, and its a struggle to start it. and when it does start its on 400rpm and wont idle on its own. car revs all the way out, but very lumpy, exhaust popping, which would suggest a fuel issue also. i guess you could say i am using the NA components, as its NA loom & NA FPCU. the TT ECU is required, for the more fuelling the engine requires, so cant put the NA ECU in. only thing i could do is put the NA pump in, but i dotn think thats gona make no difference. Topless, so you used the TT ECU & TT pump like me, just you used the TT FPCU. what loom did you use? NA or TT

thanks for that mate, but what about the fact that the Main ECU (TT) gives out up to 3 signal speeds, but only 2 speeds can be sent to the NA FPCU? as the NA loom doesnt have the third speed wire init, as the loom only sends the 2 speeds signals, which the NA FPCU requires? or is that irelavant apreaceate your help! just wana rule this issue out of the non starting, as if this was the problem, the garage would never resove it! im hoping it is a basic mechanic fault like the fuel filter etc

have u got e-mail or more info for him?

the NA pump is good enough for TT powers, aparently good for 400BHP, there is no need really to swap the pumps aparently. in regards to bypassing the pump ECU, its still going to have 2 speeds coming from the main ECU regardless. so unless its just a dodgy pump ECU, bypassing wont make a difference? surely someone on here has done a NA to TT conversion & remembers what they did?

no point, as thats 3 speed. the NA pump ecu is 2 speed. the NA loom only has the wires for 2 speeds, so a third wire would need to go from the ECU to the pump ECU. Jeff TT has advised the car will run fine on 2 speeds. (hope!) Lymon, il have a look at the engine, a possibility! i didnt do the engine bit of the swap, as didnt have a crane