Z32

did you get into it after mate? what security option did you go for lol

check the fluid level in the power steering pot, check the alternater belt, maybe that could casue some issues at high speed

yea i second that, their service is very good, and they know an awful lot, just ask em. PS the forum is class :)

did you remove/disturb the pipe from the master to the slave? that would have let air in, or did you just swap the peddal

just e-mailed you how to get in mate. free method

its only a small garage ina small town i live, the existing pipe isnt there, which i can see. reason being, the engine is from my manual TT, and its gone into a Auto NA shell. so ive had to blank certina un-neccessary things off, (EGR, carbon canister, the odd breathers here & there, re-circs etc. ive checked all the pipes several times to double check. in the garage defense, there are a few pipes in the corner, EGR solenoid, standard things etc, so there are about 3 things there, careless i guess. but really could have been fatal. these cars you need to know what your doing with, luckily im pritty good with jap cars (had a few, and learnt lots and lots from the forums & doing jobs on them myself)

took my car to a recomended garage, seem to be crap. they coudnt bleed the clutch,:rolleyes: but the worst is this.... im getting the car ready for MOT, coudnt find the windscreen washer pipe. looked everywhere, coudnt see it. i had the front bumper off already, traced the pipe from the washer water tank, i remvoved the wing, traced the pipe, it had been conencted to the balance bar! now correct me if im wrong, but water in the intake plenum/throttle body would have killed my engine! luckily i didnt have water in tank or squirt them :rant:

yea if your getting it "epRom'd" defo turn the boost up! much more noticible results

breaking into your car is easy, without damaging it. when in maybe an idea to just remove the ignotion barrell completely? until you sort it, also removing the battery and some other key things like the coilpacks (easy to remove) just so it wont be able to be started

that was without the torque converter (and no oil) it may have even been 65k, cant remember exact,

NA box is 70kg, did it the other month. that was auto tho, so maybe lighter for manual

hmm, Nissan do put a lot of un-neccesary things on the car tho, obviously the relay is there for a reason, but i dont know. the end of the day tho, its only a horn, just makes a noise when it has 12 volts going to it. the way i have wired it now just doesnt have a fuse or anything init, cant imagine it catching fire tho

30 each, weighed mine in last month.

done it now :) however, there really wasnt any wire that went up to the hub? the green/white one you speak of was nowhere to be seen???? so i ran a wire direct from the horn, to the steering boss, then another wire from the horn button to a 12+ so using the horn to provide the 12+ direct to the horn, bypassing all the relays/loom etc :)

(3 mins 12 is the bleeding part)

car is all back together and running now :D however havent got clutch, garage were struggling to do it after the gearbox/engine swap. ive seen this video on you tube which sounds easy, just wana make sure if this diagram applies to the Z aslo? on the Z i know there is another bleed valve, by the HICAS thing by the drivers headlight. can someone tell me which bit i need to do 1st? ive searched and read loads of pages but still confused, can sum1 do a very quick step by step what to do? i still have the standard setup and dont really wana potch fitting braided lines, :cry:

yea ant i thaught those rads you had were a bit small tbh, how did the MOT go after?

depends on what turbos you go for, second hand working ones, (risk) say 300 quid for 2. then about 300 for the engine out & fitt. if your going brand new ones, or uprated ones thats expensive yea.

no need to move the standard cats, they shouldnt be hitting anything, you can always decat, or remove the metal cover things that protect the cats, perhaps that will give more clearence? or you can get stiffer exhaust hangers, which are really good. my S13s exhaust used to hit the floor on flat roads even with a slight ditch, poly flex hangers hold the exhaust higher to the cars body, and are much tougher than the standard rubbers

bump this, i have found out that they only need an ignition powered live. now there are 2 wires on each solenoid, obviously 1 is + and one is - does it matter which one i positive? (as dont know which wire is which)

Baz, thaught the reg was our old car then! :x:

yea technically crap material, but were going on looks id say with this product. as long as it fits good, (not baggy) and they look good quality/well made, thats what the objective is. leeather is very expensive! these certainly look 1000 times better than tweed

lol yea ant, txt me your address ant and il post your CAS and the fuses back to you, and think ive got that bit of rubber you gave me also. yea next day after i left yours, just tested the loom and narrowed down to the conenctions. simple really after you know what to trouble shoot ;)

i was gonna get them before, but my clutch went so did that instead :rolleyes: do look good in the pics, and price is good