Z32

confused me slightly then mate, ive been to look at my car, i have that one blocked off. i beleive its for the EGR solenoid tho. block it and you should be fine :) you can then disconect the EGR solenoid & chuck it out. think youl need to block the rubber pipe that comes from the EGR itslef tho (1 that goes from the EGR to the solenoid)

legrath, i experimented with them before, kept the re-circs in, but just removed the return hose from them (pipe that goes from the recirc to the air filter intake) they sounded like mini HKS SSQV :) when i did my NA to TT conversion, it was quite a nightmare getting the intercooler pipes back in, its so tight down there, along with the oil cooler there etc, was easier just to remove & block them off to get them in. and thats with the air-con rad removed aswel! am aware of the compressor stall issue, but Nissan make several cars without re-circs so think its just more over-engineering they did :rolleyes: (PS i know thats a whole different debate so lets try not to hijack the thread :wack: )

is it a vacuum even? can you hear it sucking? im going to the garage now so will report back. looks like a plastc/rubber pipe in your pic?

heres mine, even simpler! :) AIV, FPRV, EGR, carbon canister, recircs deleted there is another vacuum tho that apears to be missing off the initial diagram, theres one on the drivers side, towards the back.

thanks guys, ive just came back from the garage, removing the TPS while idling did nothing at all. as did adjusting the IAA. cleaned bothe connectors, nothing still. i think i can hear a leak, near the actuall AAC/IAA valve itself, (constant hissing) im going out now, so il have a read thoroughly of everyones posts here, and do as you say to iminate things. car will idle on 1000 when i tap the accelarator to balance it there, just wont stay there after you rev it (hunts etc)

ok, so you mean just adjust the tickover up, so the car runs on 1000rpm then do the TPS? if the idle valve makes no diff, then i guess i know its the idle valve which is dirty?

i havent played about with the base idle no, i know where it is tho. what do you recomend i do first?

hmm at the moment the car is idleing on 600rpm, removing the TPS apears not to have any difference. when i rev the car, and the revs come back down the car just cuts out. its fine when cold, but when car warms up its crap?

ive got an idle issue with my car, im just going down my garage, as i think i know of 1 vac leak, (and im also gonna remove the AIV & FPRV thing in the wing) apart from clean the idle valve, only other thing i can think of is the TPS. gonna clean the conenctor, but how can i test it? if i remove it should the revs increase/decrease? that way i know if i remove it and nothing happens il know thats a possible cause?

yes, it does make you "understand" the bay a lot more, helpfull for finding vav/boost leaks, and also when removing some of the non required bits like AIV & FPRV etc

just found this on the american Z site, looks good!

£50 second hand, £130 for new shiney ones. i just went for second hand ones, then the money you get for weighing the cats in the scrappys (£60 for 2) more or less payes for it :)

exhasuts are going to have to come off to do the turbos,

decats are only £50, as above, if your turbo/turbos are smoking, decatting will just make it pore out with smoke, looking shit, then forcing you to get new turbos did it on my old car 200sx. (have decated 2 other cars and been fine tho)

know its a 99 spec, but £6000 for a NA? personally, id rarther spend £5000 on a TT Z, for that money youd get a loverly example, maybe 5 years older, if your that botherd about the rear lights & front bumper you have £500 quid to get them :)

i work in insurance, but dont deal with classic policies im affraid. i beleive it would be based on NCD, and i think they are limited mileage policies (4000 miles per year etc) photos & agreed value usually part of it, and yes i would imagine you need be 25+, but as with all insurers there are probably 1 or 2 companies that will do slightly younger.

who the hell told you that! If i bought a NA, i would always regret not buying the TT. i think the car is too big to be NA

do you think mine is IIA related then? idles low, and cuts out after you rev it out?

yea the price you pay, may aswel get a custom EProm for your ECU. you know what your getting then :)

my car idles when cold, but not when warm, or it does, but very low, and cuts out if you rev it. can i just clean the IAA then to try resolving this?

yea buying a second hand Jap ECU is very gambley id say, you dont know what its been tuned for!

is the air regulator the idle valve thing?

yea same here, i wanted a 300 when i was 19. had a S13 instead and built up to a 300 lol

rite i got you, so the vapurs come out of the top, then go down the red pipe and underneath out of the car. i dont really mind having vapours behind the bumper :)

just removed the CC, but why do you even need to join up the pipe that goes from the bottom (fuel vapour rail think) to the top of the tree? the red pipe im on about, why bother doing it? it goes up to the top, to the tree of 3, but then the tree of 3 goes to nothing, as youv removed the vacuum pipes that go there?