Z32

standard TT injectors shoudl be between 10 and 15 ohm

na mate, that pic isnt mine there, just an example od testing the injectors i nicked off the US forum lol got the TT injectors, TT ECU, TT fuel pump, NA loom, NA fuel pump controller, NA Diff, NA subframe. the NA loom doesnt have the wires for the boost solenoids, but all you need to do is run a ignition powered live to them. cant wait to see what the NA diff works with a TT engine, 0-60 in 3 seconds :rofl:

lol, il have to get some new ones ASAP :) its a replica tho lol gonna have a nice :duffer: to celebrate this weekend :)

yea top quality mate, its mad how the origonals get so full of that japanese green gunk! :smash:

im all spent out on the bluddy car for anything else at the mo! um yea il get some pics up when its clean, the shell has been off the road for well over a year, and hasnt been washed, needs a good polish, looks exact same of the last tho :hyper: this one should be better, as no Hicas, short ratio NA diff, Air Con deleted, so nice bit of weight shed, and pointless things removed. Boost up is next!

before i begin, must thank the forum! without it wouldnt have resoved it. certain few, Anthony D, Jeff TT, Legrath, loads more cant remember! anyway, the problem was, did an engine swap, my TT into a NA. used the NA loom, used my TT ECU, TT pump, NA pump controller, NA prop/diff/subframe etc etc. after the swap, engine didnt start. after the car went on diagnostics, there were no negative signals getting to the injectors. but there was posotive. i had cut off the corroded connectors on the injectors, and made my own, with speaker spades. still woudnt work. the neg signals come from the ECU. Tested the ECU on anthony Ds Single Turbo Z :bow: it worked. put a noid light on the connectors of the loom (wire) flashed, so the signal was getting that far. Ohm tested the injecrtors themselves direct, like this.... they were all in spec :) then tested the end of my new injector conenctors where the wire meets the loom (not the spade end on the terminals) the Ohm reading was about 0.02. :shock: so i got some of these, 7 quid each, even after putting these on, it takes a few times for them to sit correctly, as you need to ohm test the end of them after connected. spun the CAS by hand to test each one was clicking, then fired it up :) thanks for help :)

how can it be W reg then? if they stopped making the Z in 1999, or does it go on the year the DVLA actually sort it or something?

yea check the PTU, also check the connections on the injectors! ive jsut done an engine swap, had started, but only on couple cylinders, its taken me ages to narrow it down to the conenctions on the injectors, they get heavily corroded. can check them with a noid lighht. as mine were so bad, i replaced them.

think its very Fast and furious. not my cuppa tea, prefer something more JDM looking than that. rims are nice tho, but dont think VIP rims look cool on a Z. each to their own tho aye :)

ah rite thanks mate, i am using the Boss from my old car (TT) on a new car (NA) workt fine on the old car, on this car tho, looks like it doesnt fit all the way back? there are 3 sort of prongs that go in on the hub, asuming this is what you speak of, that makes contact with the boss?

how would putting the standard wheel work? there isnt the wire that goes there? im right in thinking the horn button sends a negative to the coil? does anyone know which wire im looking for in the steeting column? the standard one gota be a certain colour/one?

hey mate, thanks for advice, on the E8 side (passanger) i do see 1 green wire on its own. (on the drivers side, on E40, there are 4 thin wires, dont think there was 1 green) so lets say i use the passanger side, that green one, thatl solve that, but the steering wheel (aftermarket) does not have any wire from the horn button, nor can i see where to connect to? what colour/which one in the steering column am i after?

been on the car today. i can see a few wires in a loom by the horn. (there are 3 looms, 1 for the fog light, 1 for indicator, and this third one) il get a pic of it, but sure its for the horn. anyway open up the loom and theres 4 wires init. il get a pic of it next time :slap: one of them are the 12+ id imagine, which comes from the relay. looked at the steering wheel boss tho, and removed the casing etc. what colour wire isit? i cant see NO wire spare?

ive got the bumper off at the mo, there are a few wires i think have been cut by the horn itself, wiring diagram is a bit technical lol so wire the horn to the relay, (which gives the horn + ) then from the relay to the steering wheel by the looks yea???

the car only has 1 horn, on the passanger side. there is no wire coming from the horn itself, not can i see anywhere by the steering wheel/ignition box for it to go to the steering wheel. i know the horn needs a 12+ just connected to it to work, how do i go about wiring it, run a wire from the horn push button in the steering wheel, to the horn relay box? then another wire from the box to the horn itself? or put a direct 12+ to it, but somehow put a wire inbetween going to the steering wheel? so its not on all the time?

:wack:

also the standard boost gauges are a pile of shite :)

lol yes :) you said the ones that replace the HARD pipes, the ones in the pics are HARD pipes (metal) you shoudl of said the soft pipes :D

the pics above are the standard hard pipes, your not mixing up with the rubber ones that conenct them to the plenum?

there are 2 pipes for each IC, 1 the pipes are straight, with 2 bends each end, then the other pipe bends around the outside and back in, prob easier to get someones whos breaking :)

do you mean the 4 metal IC pipes? they are a specific shape, you wont get general pipes to fit it. unless its all flexable, which would be expensive

the boost gauge is suppost to move when you rev in netrol, goes to the - direction on rev, then on boost, goes to the + thats no issue really, get an aftermarket one to check it correctly tho. does it "boost" above 3k revs? these are old cars, your not going to find a perfect one. dont be put off from some nigly issues :)

yea the IC pipes,

same time really, get it chipped/mapped, then incerease the boost. you need to get it chipped mappt to run increased boost tho..

umm... pertend the horn incident didnt happen, worry about it if it happens again lol sort the solenoids out tho mate, crap on 7PSI/safety boost