Z32

at the pump isit, yea im 90% sure i matcht them up correct, they would have had to be folded over if i conencted them wrong. that is a good point tho.

hmm good point, but no i havent, ive had the car started tho, and its been on low revs, and died, can hear the pump priming. sounds like it wants to start but then doesnt. but it has been started since the conversion, but never idling running right :confused:

i thaught that stuff was on the opposite side, inhibitor switch etc but theres obviously more on the other side!

having spot of bother as it were at the mo, engine has been swapped, i used the NA loom tho still. swaped the ECU, and fuel pump. car has ben started, but i dont think fuel is getting there at the mo. if you did the conversion, did you use the NA loom, and did you use the NA fuel pump ECU? i spoke to Jeff TT and im sure he said it was fine to use the TT ECU, NA loom, NA fuel pump ECU, and TT pump (even tho the NA pump is good enough) just wana rule that out, before i think about getting a new loom. only other possibility i can think, is loom or fuel filter

try a less fussy garage, my old car failed before, however the exhaust was Blitz Nur Spec tho! went different garage went throu ok. just ask them the quetion is it to loud bofore you book the MOT

60mm ones go for a bit more than the 52mm ones, that looks a bit small tho, plus its an old model. 40 ish maybe?

thanks mate, im not in possession of the car at the mo, as its down the garage. Engine doesnt start ok. when it does, it sounds like on 4/5 cylinders. it ran PERFECT in the TT shel before, and even drove to the garage. ECU now reads to error codes. im using the NA loom, TT fuel pump, TT ECU, must be a problem with something on the new shell, as oppost to the engine, as ran fine before. the things that are on the NA shell ive used, which may be casuing trouble, is the fuel filter, loom, thats all i can think.

changed the connections on the front 4 injectors, with new speaker spades, still the same. ive given the car to the garage who swapped the engine over for me (good mechanic) said that doesnt seem fuel is getting through. so whats the possible casues then... 1) blocked fuel filter 2) fuel pump (but was working fine, and can hear it priming) 3) injectors 4) ECU guna leav with the garage for a week and see what they think :confused:

the rear cooler on TT & NA? are they required? or just un-necessary bits and bobs, dont think that when you buy an upgraded diff (like Kaaz) they dont need cooling? or am i just guessing

i thaught the little oil cooler goes to the sump? to cool the oil of the engine? then there is the main rad for the water of the engine, and a smaller rad for the air con. this correct?

i dont think you have oil coolers for the box.

after reading your other thread, (odometer prob) i would replace the cluster for one that works! you have series 4, but what good it that if it dont work! im sure a working series 1 is better to have than a broken 4

would anyone care if the aircon didnt work, or wasnt there even! the cars are Targas after all. ive just removed the entire system from my car, its as much of a selling feature as HICAS :mac1:

thanks mate, il have a look tonight. think i only have the 1 horn tho, (think some cars have 2, some have 1)

the bumper is off the car, ive jsut swapped my steering wheel, and realised i have no wire there for the horn, in the steering wheel, and if i look outside, there is no wire going to the horn itself? now on the horn itself, there seems to be just 1 connection to it, does several wires go from that 1 connector? or isit just 1 wire, which i can route to the horn itself (asume be a posotive) then the boss acts a negative?

cheers guys! just bought the clear plastics, tenner. so soak the lights in boiling water yea. have to re-seal with er.... sealer? :smash: then pop them from the outside > in yea. a thin knife sounds like required aswell. il post pics up when i get round to messing them up lol

how does it sound so good? obv a standard V8 doesnt sound like that, is it purely the ITB's ?

hmm.... time consuming........ ive just done an auto>manual conversion, swapped the dash, interior, boot, suspension, boot, lights, seats, im sure a little potch on the lights is no comparison! :D they do look 20times nicer in white tho, TranceManDan, gime an email mate il take them off you, DRFT@talktalk.net

the fuel pump will only prime each time youv tried starting the car. if you just turn the ignition on & off, without starting the car it wont prime. do that ECU check thats the easiest!

yea i like yours! how much potch we talking here, how long take, and how much money? im quite good a little things like that :)

yea dont wana spend THAT amont of money on the propper 99spec lights, wondered how easy/what was involved in doing it. any picsof the finisht result?

is there something you can do/buy, so you lose the orange indicator bit on the back lights? want a clear/white bit, dont really like the orange. is there a replacement or do you have to get the whole light?

only thing wrogn with the VIN is its all in japanese :wack:

do the ECU test 1st, then go from there,

oh, thats none of the ones i mentioned, thats on the passanger side isnt it, i dont know myslef but im sure someone will advise!