Z32

i dont have conzult or know of anyone local with it, shall i get hold of another temp sensor? looks easy to replace. the looms havent moved, and the previous owner said the car workt fine on the previous owner. pain in the arse this is :(

probably be difficult, as the metal pipes have bends in them

and also if it is the loom/injector wires, why is the ECU saying the temp sensor? are the pics if shown on the last page ok to leave unplugged? just trying to route out anything it wont be...

mickcml007, so have you replaced your loom? did that resove it? ive checked the CAS, that seems fine. im asuming that itl go on 6cylinders when it starts next, as the top coilpack wasnt on all the way (clickt when presst it on) il remove the ECU & connecxt it again, but it does say error code 13 so isnt it conencted correctly? the car & loom looks in good nick, and the garage havent touched the loom, as ive told them the looms are the same so its not the sensor that the ECU is telling me? or should i get another? really dont wana swap the looms :(

thaught you have to have conzult for that, if you disconect the battery for an hour i didnt think that removes what its saved? or how do i need to do it? if still says error 13, the only other thing HAS to be is the senser itself has packed in yea?

just plugged in the standard electric sub fan, makes no difference. still wont fire & still gived same error code. just need someone to confirm the engine & radiater hard pipes need to be full of water for car to work (i woudnt think the sensor would know if there was water in there or not) or if i ned a new sensor on the radiater hardpipes of the engine

thats not connected as i havent put the rad etc back in yet. people remove that tho when they have electric fans to replace the viscus?

wait a minite, i think ive got it. its the water temp sensor right? i havent got the radiater back on yet!! so theres no water in the engine at all, nor the rad/cooling system... would that matter??

just cleaned the yellow connector, and the smaller one next to it. also cleaned the 2 prongs on the sensor. removed fuse, replaced, stil nothing. it nearly fires but wont :( thaught its flooded, but i did another ECU check and still giving error code 13. ive cleaned them by scraping the green gunk thats on there, and spraying with WD40. do i need a new sensor?? its the same sensor on the engine when it was running before the swap??

il give a go at cleaning it again now, is it just on the metal pater pipe? the yellow conenctor, that goes on the sensor yea? anything else along the connector wire? could there be another bit that needs cleaning? how accurate is that ECU?

13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit

it was starting yesterday, it started for a cuple of seconds today, but not now :( no i havent tried the ECU check yet, knew that was next on the list, but want to check ive got everything physically correct first, then electronically etc yea help me out later mate, and everyone else lol

thanks for your help guys, i need it right think im gettin bit closer now, one of the coilpacks wernt on all the way, the 1 right at the top by the bulkhead. ive noticed that this doesnt hard pipe doesnt have a pipe connected to it? its on the driver side throtle body, the metal hard pipe goes to this thing in the corner, by the fuses, and also ive noticed this doesnt have anything connected to it, its by the passanger side, at the front by the light when i put the ECU in, i made sure it was sitting correctly & in firm, as had that mistake before. the clocks (speedo cluster) isnt conencted at the mo as ive swapped the dash, but il conenct it & see if any lights come on, after you advise on these pics....

so were going down the connections & pipe route yea? the ECU & coilpacks work fine, as engine was running sweet before the swap. just hope the manual TT ECU is communicating propery through the NA auto loom. (people here done that before yea??) should i try putting the NA ECU in to see if that iliminates the prob?

its running the TT ECU, and its standard, not chipped. ive had the car back from the garage (they just droped the engine and box init) i put the IC pipes back. they said they had it running on brake cleaner (whatever that means) but as the IC pipes wernt connected, it woudnt idle as was letting too much air in. il have a look at the pipes tomo, incase theres a few thin vaccum pipes unblocked or something........

and the ECU is a standard TT manual. the sensors on the rad pipes are clean i beleive, where is the sensor? i had this problem before, but it was the PTU, cleaned and was fine. the car has been stood for a year odd the previous owner said, so the petrol init is old. should idle and rev tho?

the engine/ water temp sensor was working on the engine when was in the old car. im thinking ECU aswel, im using the auto/manual loom, but the looms are the same, just doesnt have the wires coming off for the boost solenoids. il clean the sensor tho just incase, but like i said it workt fine before. could it be theres an air leak? some of the IC pipes may have a gap in them? or would that not cause this

hmm removed fuel pump fuse, turned the car over for 10 seconds, put it back in, it starts again, idles, its on about 300rpm, stil sounds like on 3/4/5 cylinders (dont know but dont think its 6) idles for a minite then dies again. boost leak? the petrol in there is quite old i beleive, but it still starts???

and the PTU is clean. the engine was working fine before in the TT car. its in the NA car now, (swapped fuel pumps, ECUs, all the bits needed for the conversion)

for those who dont know, ive converted from NA to TT, (and auto to man) put intercooler pipes back together, started first time but died out. i had forgot to blank off the recircs. blankt off, started again first time, idled a little longer, sounded like was on 3 or 5 cylinders, then diesd again when tapped the accelarator. now it wont start :( it just turns and turns, had a little blip but wudnt fire. ive left it now as dont want to flood it. ive not had the gas pedal pressed in when starting, just started with the key nothing else fuel pump noise comes on when ignition is on. any suggestions?

ah no need. the pipe with the re-circ goes to the cold. ive ben trying vice versa, no wonder its taken me half a day :wack:

having difficulty putting the pipes back on, the metal & rubber ones, cant get them all to line up, the pipe that has the take-off for the re-circs, does that pipe go to the intake plenum/throttle (cold side) or does it go to the turbo (hot side) ?

ok. so does the expansion tank need to be full of water aswell then or empty? or half?

probably just as potchy as every other job on the Z! would be nice to remove completly tho, my glove box/dash is off at the mo, so il have a look at it tomo

whats the purpose of it then? just stores a little bit of water to feed the radiater if it runs low isit?